Jump to content

MCB thingymajig

mrsmelly

By mrsmelly
in Boat Building & Maintenance

 Share

Featured Posts

alan_fincher Veteran II

alan_fincher

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

The other thing I thought it might be was a Mini Clubman 1275 GT.

I once went to a BL dealership thinking I was going to buy one of those as my first ever brand new car.

Somehow though I managed to come away having bought one of the "rubber bumpered" MG Midgets, (that by then had Triumph engines).

The original plan might never have been a great one, but it would have been infinitely better than what I managed to change it to!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

The op doesn't believe that anyone's walked on the moon, so is unlikely to believe anyone that's offering good advice.

Strange logic. If we disbelieve one event in history, we can take advice from nobody?

Edited by Guest
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Bewildered Proficient

BewilderedDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

You have me lost now. It will be available in all three types. You've posted a photo of a Type C which looks completely different in detail, from the photo!

The make is Proteus and the part code 21016/3 can be clearly seen in the photo. I can only assume they changed the design.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AndrewIC Rising Star

AndrewIC

Posted
Posted
12 minutes ago, alan_fincher said:

The site I found it on is Trade only - unless you can persuade a trade person to buy it for you, you may need to seek out a retail supplier.

I only linked to that one because I believe it is exactly the make, model and current rating that you had.

CEF shops will, in my experience, sell to non-trade on a cash sale basis.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mrsmelly Veteran II

mrsmellyDonate to Canal World

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

Given the OPs MCB was a type D, this suggests his her indoors managed to draw  mains current of 160A to trip it!!!

It was more than 200 amps as my 200 amp shunt couldn't cope the numbers were dancing all over the place :unsure: I will forgive these batteries if they don't err um shall we say last as long as the last lot. It was about twenty seconds before I killed the draw. The Inverter was running massively above its rated output and all my lights dimmed considerably which was the clue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MtB Veteran II

MtBDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

It was more than 200 amps as my 200 amp shunt couldn't cope the numbers were dancing all over the place :unsure: I will forgive these batteries if they don't err um shall we say last as long as the last lot. It was about twenty seconds before I killed the draw. The Inverter was running massively above its rated output and all my lights dimmed considerably which was the clue.

 

My ghast is flabbered.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
alan_fincher Veteran II

alan_fincher

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

Given the OPs MCB was a type D, this suggests his her indoors managed to draw  mains current of 160A to trip it!!!

I thought it looked like it had the remnants of a "C", not a "D"?

Surely though those huge currents are only relevant if they are initial surge currents?

If we are talking about someone switching on kettles and fam heaters at the same time, 9or whatever it aws!), then if it goes on for multiple seconds, they will trip at something far closer to the quoted 16A rating?

Otherwise what is the point of it having a 16A rating?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mrsmelly Veteran II

mrsmellyDonate to Canal World

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 minutes ago, alan_fincher said:

I thought it looked like it had the remnants of a "C", not a "D"?

Surely though those huge currents are only relevant if they are initial surge currents?

If we are talking about someone switching on kettles and fam heaters at the same time, 9or whatever it aws!), then if it goes on for multiple seconds, they will trip at something far closer to the quoted 16A rating?

Otherwise what is the point of it having a 16A rating?

Trouble is when it trips my inverter takes over cos I havnt a clue how to switch it to charger only as its a combi. I would rather the trip went and all went off rather than melting my batteries. I need to sort out how to do that next.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MtB Veteran II

MtBDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, alan_fincher said:

I thought it looked like it had the remnants of a "C", not a "D"?

Surely though those huge currents are only relevant if they are initial surge currents?

If we are talking about someone switching on kettles and fam heaters at the same time, 9or whatever it aws!), then if it goes on for multiple seconds, they will trip at something far closer to the quoted 16A rating?

Otherwise what is the point of it having a 16A rating?

 

A 16A fuse rarely breaks at 16A. Generally they require a significant over current and the smaller that over-current the longer the fuse will tolerate it for. All carefully designed and one can spend as much time getting to understand the niceties of fuse design as the niceties of battery charging.

Almost...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mrsmelly Veteran II

mrsmellyDonate to Canal World

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

A 16A fuse rarely breaks at 16A. Generally they require a significant over current and the smaller that over-current the longer the fuse will tolerate it for. All carefully designed and one can spend as much time getting to understand the niceties of fuse design as the niceties of battery charging.

Almost...

What is 16 amps in kw jobbies then that it should trip at?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Stilllearning Influencer

Stilllearning

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, jake_crew said:

As Ditchcrawler says - get a professional !

Also try to persuade you friend that living on a boat is not like a house - even if you are on shore power.  As has been suggested, you can only use one high current item at a time - ie kettle, toaster or microwave.   Even hair dryers and hoovers can be powerful.

Go and have a chat at Shobnall Marina, if Iain Jones is still there, he is a very good boat electrician.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MtB Veteran II

MtBDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

Thinking about it a bit more. Why hasn't this mcb got a test button on it like the others have? :mellow:

 

Stop thinking about it, you'll get in trouble. :giggles:

If yours really do all have test buttons, they probably aren't MCBs. Can you post up a photo of them?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted (edited)
31 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

What is 16 amps in kw jobbies then that it should trip at?

16 amps = appox 4 kW 

apologies, the lette " " is not woking on my compute.

Edited by Guest
Link to comment
Share on other sites
mrsmelly Veteran II

mrsmellyDonate to Canal World

Posted
  • Author
Posted
26 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Stop thinking about it, you'll get in trouble. :giggles:

If yours really do all have test buttons, they probably aren't MCBs. Can you post up a photo of them?

 

 

WP_20180110_19_14_40_Pro.jpg

WP_20180110_19_14_56_Pro.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MtB Veteran II

MtBDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

 

WP_20180110_19_14_40_Pro.jpg

WP_20180110_19_14_56_Pro.jpg

 

Yep, as we thought. 

A test button on the RCD (yours is labelled RCCB - residual current circuit breaker) but not on the MCBs.

The RCD detects tiny current(s) leaking out of places where it shouldn't. The MCB protects against excessively high current. 

Edited by Mike the Boilerman
Link to comment
Share on other sites
mrsmelly Veteran II

mrsmellyDonate to Canal World

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Yep, as we thought. 

A test button on the RCD (yours is labelled RCCB) but not on the MCBs.

The RCD detects current leaking out of places where it shouldn't. The MCB protects against excessively high current. 

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh penny she drop. Now I am deffo going to replace the bust mcb but are we still safe I think re shocks ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.