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Boatman stove, help?


Gareth E

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I opened the door of my stove this morning, the glass fell out. Luckily it didn't break. It seems the glass is held in with 4 lugs. There's so much muck around there I can't tell whether these lugs are screwed in, or riveted. One of the bottom lugs is fully intact, the other missing. The two top lugs are partly/ missing corroded. I can just about squeeze the glass in with things as they stand. It seems in no hurry to fall out again. It's not ideal though.

Does anyone know if there's a sealant I could use to effectively glue the glass in place, that would withstand the high temperature involved? 

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I'd make fresh tabs to hold the glass in. The cast iron door is easy to drill and tap, no need to drill right through, use a second and then a plug thread tap in a blind hole, say 2BA. 2p pieces make good holding tabs, drilled off centre. Try to get stainless cheese head screws, ''model engineers stores'' Clean the recess in the door out thorouly. Place  bits of fireproof tape between the tabs and glass to ease the pressure, don't overtighten.  Seal the glass in with either fireproof tape or silicone, just a cheap tube will do, no need to buy expensive flame proof stuff, all silicone is fireproof.

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That happened to my Boatman stove this year too. It's ten years old so I wasn't surprised something was going to go eventually. The lugs were totally corroded.

I temporarily held the glass in place with fire cement while I needed to use it, until I could send the door back to Northern Fabrications. Eddie there put new glass and lugs in it and refurbished the whole door for me. It came back looking fab and he even repainted it and fixed up the vent's screw thread. And it didn't cost very much considering the amount of work he put into it. 

 

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The tags on our Boatman have slowly broken up over the last, the first 2 I replaced with penny washers but when the glass cracked last month, and 2 screws broke (the first ever in 10 years) I cet and drilled two steel strips. With silicone tape around the front edge abd side of the new glass and another strip of tape on each metal strip the glass is a good fit and cleaning the inside is much easier than trying to clean around the tags. 

The screws are M3 x 8mm cheese head by the way. I wouldn't use stainless as they will be more difficult to drill out if they break. 

20171213_165041.jpg

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22 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Demonstrably untrue. 

Even high temperature silicone isn't fireproof. I expect you can work out how I know this. 

But I have done the demonstration.  I put a blob of cheap clear and a blob of expensive red heat proof on my shovel and after they'd cured roasted them, just like chesnuts and observed them intently, both eventually broke down into just crumblyness at the same moment, neither burst into flames.

Edited by bizzard
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2 hours ago, bizzard said:

But I have done the demonstration.  I put a blob of cheap clear and a blob of expensive red heat proof on my shovel and after they'd cured roasted them, just like chesnuts and observed them intently, both eventually broke down into just crumblyness at the same moment, neither burst into flames.

 

Bet you didn't do this with ALL of them silicones on the market!

 

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4 hours ago, cuthound said:

You wouldn't want to use that to hold your glass in.

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