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Best screw type to fix skin fittings to steel hull


Robbo

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13 minutes ago, Neil Smith said:

The machine screws I used had hex in for tightening with an allen key.

Neil

 

Yes there are dozens of head designs and styles for both bolts and screws. Yours would be known as 'socket head Allen screws'.  

It's the screw thread running all the way up to the head however, that makes it a screw rather than a bolt. 

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1 hour ago, artleknock said:

NES   I have been there!!!!. I needed some brass 0BA hex headed setscrews, I searched the www and these were the only supplier that I found. By a most amazing co-incidence I was moored at Barlaston and found that NES are up at Trentham just a few hundred yards from the cut, so I walked up there with the dog. Its a small unit on a small industrial estate. I got the impression that the "unusual stuff" is old stock and most likely won't get replaced so if you want those bronze screws then get them now.

(They wanted quite a lot of money for the brass 0BA, maybe they knew that nobody else had any!)

...............Dave 

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14 hours ago, WotEver said:

 

 

 

More seriously, self-centre drills would be a good start. Change the supplied tin drill bit for a decent cobalt one. 

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/4PCS-Door-Lock-Hinge-Drill-Bit-Set-Self-Centering-Hinge-Drill-Bit-For-Plastic-UK-/192359089241

I tried without changing the bit. The ones supplied may put a hole in a wooden window frame but they don't touch steel 

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2 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

I tried without changing the bit. The ones supplied may put a hole in a wooden window frame but they don't touch steel 

They do say that they are for plastic, a lot softer than steel :)

When I was starting up my workshop I purchased a whole lot of these Chinese manufactured cutting tools to get me going. They don't last, but they were cheep, one or two jobs and they were done. I have been gradualy changing them for good quality gear, they cost, but you get what you pay for.

4 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

The listing is for hex head screws, illustrating (I suspect) the point I made earlier about screws sometimes having hex heads.

I'm surprised it had to be explained :lol:

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3 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

I tried without changing the bit. The ones supplied may put a hole in a wooden window frame but they don't touch steel 

Indeed. Hence my advice to change the drill for a cobalt one. The chromed brass bodies aren’t bad, it’s just the soft drills that won’t drill anything more than margerine. 

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Its best to keep the drill bit and tap coated with grease to help prevent and trap swarf from falling into the tank.  A dessert spoon with a bent handle can poked into the hole and held under the drilling and tapping positions to help catch it too.   I reckon those things could be stuck on yer know, Stuff like Sikaflex, Marineflex is powerfully massiv sticky, the thing stuck down and sealed all in one go, possibly stronger than brass screws.   If using Chinese drill bits and taps only glease should be used on them

Edited by bizzard
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2 hours ago, WotEver said:

Indeed. Hence my advice to change the drill for a cobalt one. The chromed brass bodies aren’t bad, it’s just the soft drills that won’t drill anything more than margerine. 

Yes but you didn't post that 3 months ago, if you had I wouldn't have run into problems

 

  • Haha 1
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2 hours ago, smileypete said:

Use self drilling 'tek' screws to drill and cut a thread, then replace with identical thread stainless ones if and when...

That doesn’t address inisfree’s point about centering though. 

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43 minutes ago, WotEver said:

That doesn’t address inisfree’s point about centering though. 

I never said it did. :rolleyes:

Having wasted a goodly amount of quality time on bl**dy Peukert and a certain persons obsession with it, I'm reluctant to answer further... :unsure: I'm sure the assembled experts can work something out on the centering thing...

Edited by smileypete
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1 hour ago, smileypete said:

I never said it did. :rolleyes:

Having wasted a goodly amount of quality time on bl**dy Peukert and a certain persons obsession with it, I'm reluctant to answer further... :unsure: I'm sure the assembled experts can work something out on the centering thing...

When I was at college it was called a dot punch, something you used after marking out with a scribe and funny blue stuff

 

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It should be easy to spot through the fittings screw holes into the deck by eye with a centre punch. If not drop a small nut into the fittings holes and spot and punch through ithe hole in it with a slim centre punch into the deck.

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6 hours ago, cuthound said:

Woad?

For dwiving down?

16 hours ago, smileypete said:

Having wasted a goodly amount of quality time on bl**dy Peukert and a certain persons obsession with it,.. 

... you still don’t get it. 

Not to worry. BMS designers’ jobs remain safe. 

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I have used Brass Machine screws in the past, cleaning the thread with a steel screw following taping the hole, just to make sure the thread runs freely. If you are doing loads of holes on a regular basis on either horizontal or vertical steel investing in a Magnetic Drilling system is worth doing as they stick onto the steel ensuring the hole is perpendicular to the metal so the screws run true.

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On 06/12/2017 at 14:57, Robbo said:

Hello,

Whats the best method to fit skin fittings that require screwing down (like diesel tank fill inlet).    I was thinking tap and using machine screws?  What is the best material? Stainless steel?

Cheers,
Richard.

 A4 stainless would be best but A2 also ok.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-A4-STAINLESS-STEEL-M5-COUNTERSUNK-CSK-SOCKET-CAP-ALLEN-BOLT-SCREWS/122401009379?var=422876085972&hash=item1c7fab2ee3:m:m8vWb_AeSmS4u-wrdnIcRRw

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