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Blacking paint recommendations


13-10

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We have always used Rylards Premium. 

Do. Check out anodes and stern gear /packing whilst boat is out of water. 

Don't scrimp on preparation or refloat too soon,or forget to put the weed hatch back in when done. 

Edited by rusty69
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4 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Don't scrimp on preparation or refloat too soon. 

Cheers Rusty,

Was thinking of using Red Oxide on any bare metal before blacking

How long after the final blacking coat should it be left before refloating

4 minutes ago, WotEver said:

And the rudder bottom cup

Is that where the bottom of the rudder sits in the bracket, if so am I looking for excessive play

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1 minute ago, 13-10 said:

Cheers Rusty,

Was thinking of using Red Oxide on any bare metal before blacking

How long after the final blacking coat should it be left before refloating

See tin for drying times. Its usually a minimum of 48hrs depending on temperature. Some blacking won't adhere to red oxide very well. 

Worth trying to determine what is already on there before putting something else on top. 

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26 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Worth trying to determine what is already on there before putting something else on top

I phoned the marina that did it a couple of years ago for the bloke I bought it from.

They say they use 'Intertuf', would I be best to use that make again

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2 minutes ago, 13-10 said:

I phoned the marina that did it a couple of years ago for the bloke I bought it from.

They say they use 'Intertuf', would I be best to use that make again

Read the application instructions carefully and follow the temperature  recommendations closely. You say 'new year'. Jan and Feb are not times to paint unless you have a heated paint shop. I would not paint anything until it was over 15 deg C as solvents will not evaporate quick enough and you always need to be 2-3deg c above the dew point otherwise you will get moisture on the surface which will be bad for adhesion.

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I think that may depend upon what numbers follow the Intertuf name.

Remember bitumen based blacking will go over bitumen based blacking or weathered tar based blacking. Tar based blacking will tend to lift/desolve old bitumen based blacking so tar based only goes over tar based.

Two pack should not go over any old blacking.

Premium  is bitumen based.

I think Intertuf depends upon the numbers.

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Best is 2 pack but these Must have a shot blast first, and are probably best put on by a boatyard though DIY is possible.

If you are using ordinary blacking then what you use Must be compatible with what is already on there, some do Not mix and match.

Red oxide is surprisingly counter productive, though there are special primers available. Blacking is designed to stick to bare rough steel and will not stick nearly so well to a primer.

Scrape all the loose old stuff and loose rust off but you do not need to go right back to shiny steel, if you do use an angle grinder etc aim to leave a rough surface.

..............Dave

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Can't access their instructions at present as on mobile but basically pressure wash, wire brush off any loose remains, paint with fertan, wait 24hrs, wash off remains of fertan, then you are good to go. That lot took me 2.5 days then 2 days to get 6 costs on (it dries quickly) followed by 2.5 days drying.

The most important bits are cleaning off the fertan and at least 48hrs drying time.

When the boat is out again in 2019 I will let everyone know just how good it was or wasn't.

J

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2 minutes ago, Loddon said:

Can't access their instructions at present as on mobile but basically pressure wash, wire brush off any loose remains, paint with fertan, wait 24hrs, wash off remains of fertan, then you are good to go. That lot took me 2.5 days then 2 days to get 6 costs on (it dries quickly) followed by 2.5 days drying.

The most important bits are cleaning off the fertan and at least 48hrs drying time.

When the boat is out again in 2019 I will let everyone know just how good it was or wasn't.

J

 

Thanks 

It doesn't sound like much more work than bitumen. 

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4 minutes ago, Loddon said:

Can't access their instructions at present as on mobile but basically pressure wash, wire brush off any loose remains, paint with fertan, wait 24hrs, wash off remains of fertan, then you are good to go. That lot took me 2.5 days then 2 days to get 6 costs on (it dries quickly) followed by 2.5 days drying.

The most important bits are cleaning off the fertan and at least 48hrs drying time.

When the boat is out again in 2019 I will let everyone know just how good it was or wasn't.

J

But as we discovered some months ago at this time of year Fertan may need far longer than 24 hours to go off unless in a heated environment.  Take care

55 minutes ago, 13-10 said:

Tony-from what the bloke at the marina said its this stuff

http://www.marinechandlery.com/international-intertuf-5lt

 

Thanks for the advice Dr Bob I'm thinking maybe April time to do it (I'm north of the border so 15C at any time of the year is a struggle :))

 

Personally I would ask International about it because the data provided gives no indication of what it iust based upon. My guess is bitumen but who knows.

To test clean ansd are of blacking and the soak a rag in white spirit or even petrol Rub the surface of the blacking. If it starts to stain the cloth and soften then its probably bitumen based.

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Just now, 13-10 said:

Thanks Tony will follow the advice from yourself and others on here. Have to say if the bumf about Keelback is correct I'm tempted to use it

But as you know, they always say good things in the adverts.

But I did see a sign outside a pub once saying something like  bad beer crap food, unfriendly staff

.............Dave

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2 minutes ago, dmr said:

But as you know, they always say good things in the adverts.

But I did see a sign outside a pub once saying something like  bad beer crap food, unfriendly staff

.............Dave

Very true. Just need to decide which bulls##t to opt for

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25 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

But as we discovered some months ago at this time of year Fertan may need far longer than 24 hours to go off unless in a heated environment.  Take care

 

Yes but mine was done first week in July,  hottest week this year and neighbours was done in the only week last February when the temperature was well over 10deg. ;)

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1 hour ago, Loddon said:

Yes but mine was done first week in July,  hottest week this year and neighbours was done in the only week last February when the temperature was well over 10deg. ;)

Yes, but the OP indicates he is doing it in the next few weeks and not only what Fertan said about curing times but also what I found on my boat indicates it woudl eb asking for  trouble like lack of adhesion.

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