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Can Shuttering plywood be used to line my boat?


Chas78

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Hi All,

I am at present replacing the rotten thin plywood on the walls on my boat can 18mm shuttering plywood be used i will be covering with T&G so it does not have to look pleasing as will never be seen any advice very much appreciated :captain: 

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The whole of my boat is being stripped out this is how i bought the boat last month the fire is going back to the front where it belongs not where the previous owner has unsafely sited it as in the picture :blush:

 

3 minutes ago, bizzard said:

Shuttering ply can look nice if cleaned up and varnished. Interesting grain, Douglas fir usually I think.

I like the sound of that bizzard i am going to look at the said shuttering tomorrow :)

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2 minutes ago, Chas78 said:

The whole of my boat is being stripped out this is how i bought the boat last month the fire is going back to the front where it belongs not where the previous owner has unsafely sited it as in the picture :blush:

 

I like the sound of that bizzard i am going to look at the said shuttering tomorrow :)

Examine the boards though, they tend to get chucked about a bit and can have damage, corners usually. 

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59 minutes ago, bizzard said:

Examine the boards though, they tend to get chucked about a bit and can have damage, corners usually. 

I used shuttering ply on the floor and walls up to gunnel level and it's worked well. However, you do have to SELECT them -as Bizzard points out. Stuff from the sheds tend to be poor quality, so be savvy and find a proper timber merchant - there are quite a few around.

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49 minutes ago, OldGoat said:

I used shuttering ply on the floor and walls up to gunnel level and it's worked well. However, you do have to SELECT them -as Bizzard points out. Stuff from the sheds tend to be poor quality, so be savvy and find a proper timber merchant - there are quite a few around.

So can the stuff from timber yards if your not careful. Corners knocked off and boot marks all over. And don't go anywhere near the junk that comes from China.

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9 hours ago, Rose Narrowboats said:

And don't use anything as thick as 18mm apart from on the floor. 9 or 12mm up to gunwale height, 6 or 9mm on the cabin sides and deckhead or you'll have too much weight too high up and the boat will tend to roll.

I was actually thinking that but i'm only going up to the gunwhale height surely this would be like fitting internal furniture etc as is the same height ? :mellow: 

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1 hour ago, Chas78 said:

I was actually thinking that but i'm only going up to the gunwhale height surely this would be like fitting internal furniture etc as is the same height ? :mellow: 

I think Rose means don't use shuttering ply above the gunnel. You don't really need 18mm anywhere but on the floor. 12mm is thick enough to screw into - with care and it won't add any insulation value and it'll cost less.

There must be something wrong with my boat because  I fitted it with 25mm t&g lining above the gunnel and it doesn't roll (or perhaps we don't notice it) - but then there's a lot of ballast and wooden 'things' below that. However Rose knows what he's at - so I'd take his advice.... 

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1 hour ago, Machpoint005 said:

It's not beyond the wit of man to find out the surface density of any sheet material, and calculate the total weight from the total area, surely?

Depending upon the type of wood (pine or hardwood etc) that the plywood is made from, but an 18mm sheet is between 9 to 13kg per square meter.  Which if you have ever picked up a sheet of 18mm ply in the DIY shed by the long edge looking through the stack for a nice grain face and undamaged sheet is heavy stuff.  approx 32kg for an 8 by 4 (foot) sheet.

Added - density of ply is in the range 450 to 700kg per m3.  So a square meter of 18mm ply is 0.018m3 which will weigh somewhere between 8~13kg per square meter.

Edited by Chewbacka
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Shuttering ply is nowhere near as rigid as wpb, and I would guess be more prone to vibration. As a base for t+g that may not be a problem. Below the gunwale 18mm will be an asset when fixing anything to it.

There are definitely different grades available as others have mentioned, as it is basically designed as a temporary product. 

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Are you thinking of using T&G planks for the look?

Take a sheet of ply wood 6mm thick, using an electric router, groove parallel lines, approximately 75-100mm apart, only need to be 0.5mm wide by 1mm deep, occasional right angle line between grooves.

Voila! when painted T&G effect, that will never crack along the "joint" lines.

 

Bod   

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On 11/23/2017 at 18:18, Chas78 said:

There should be if the boat looks like this :huh:

rust 001.jpg

Looks like there's battens there so vertical T&G should go straight on those. Seen diagonal on a couple of boats which can look nice.

There's probably more than meets the eye with cladding; acclimatising, sealing knots, fixings, finishing. Some googling of the relevant forums should pay off well there, are you planning to varnish or paint the T&G?

Edited by smileypete
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3 hours ago, smileypete said:

Looks like there's battens there so vertical T&G should go straight on those. Seen diagonal on a couple of boats which can look nice.

There's probably more than meets the eye with cladding; acclimatising, sealing knots, fixings, finishing. Some googling of the relevant forums should pay off well there, are you planning to varnish or paint the T&G?

Thanks for that Smileypete don't really fancy diagonal think i will end up doing vertical t&g as my woodworking skills are VERY basic to say the least :blush: the other problem i have is the hull is semi v and the strengthening beams jut out so it should be fun mating the floor to the t&g walling :huh:

Edited by Chas78
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14 minutes ago, Chas78 said:

 the other problem i have is the hull is semi v and the strengthening beams jut out so it should be fun mating the floor to the t&g walling :huh:

Lay the floor first then pack out the battens to which you’re attaching the t&g such that the t&g touches the floor near the outer edge. 

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On 23/11/2017 at 18:25, Chas78 said:

The whole of my boat is being stripped out this is how i bought the boat last month the fire is going back to the front where it belongs not where the previous owner has unsafely sited it as in the picture :blush:

 

There is no hard and fast rule where a stove should be placed as long as it correctly installed. At the front by the door is not where I would place it. In effect you only heat one end of the boat  with uneven spread of heat where even with a fan will have its work cut out to heat the back of the boat. Most stoves are installed as a after throught as to where to place it. With a stove installed towards the middle, you get a even spread of heat. In this case the stove has not been installed correctly,  had it been you would have a even spread of heat along with no risk of falling against it when steping down through the doors. I know a number of people who have been burn this way.  My own stove is towards the middle of the boat

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