Jump to content

Microbore for radiators


Stephen Jeavons

Featured Posts

6 minutes ago, bizzard said:

I tend to collect it over night here when the air space is clear of stinky planes from Stansted airport which fly over here during the day at about 1500ft polluting everything with tons of exhaust, we can smell it.

I've not heard of using rainwater for battery top up, but thinking about it, it should be ideal if its collected from acid rain:)

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

I've not heard of using rainwater for battery top up, but thinking about it, it should be ideal if its collected from acid rain:)

 

 

Or pop a Spangle acid drop from the sweet shop into each cell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

I've not heard of using rainwater for battery top up, but thinking about it, it should be ideal if its collected from acid rain:)

 

 

You can also the melt water from a freezer or fridge. Unfortunately modern fridges & freezers don't ice up as much as the old ones used to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

You can also the melt water from a freezer or fridge. Unfortunately modern fridges & freezers don't ice up as much as the old ones used to.

I'm all for saving a few quid, but is rainwater/freezer water as free from impurities as the shop sold stuff?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 24/11/2017 at 10:31, rusty69 said:

I'm all for saving a few quid, but is rainwater/freezer water as free from impurities as the shop sold stuff?

 

I've heard the answer to this is no, as although distilled by definition, it picks up all manner of dust pollution on the way down. 

I'm not convinced by thsi though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 23/11/2017 at 19:53, Stephen Jeavons said:

 

Anyway just to clear any misunderstanding, the piping to and from the Eber is 22mm. Ditto to the rear radiators and calorifier. I only wish to use micro bore on two front radiators not the entire system. I hope that makes sense.

 

 

THis is unlikely to work well. Microbore and smallbore systems are designed differently and you're mixing the two up. Microbore systems have the flow and return from the boiler going to a pair of manifolds, then a pair of pipes runs off from the manifold to each radiator. A LOT of thin pipes!

Your way, the long microbore run will have a LOT of hydraulic resistance, far more than the local 22 and 15 mm loop, so the local loop will need heavily restricting to force any water to go along the long microbore run. Better to do it the other way around. 22mm run to the distant rads, microbore to the local rad and calorifier. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

I would go further and say the greater the pressure a pump has to act agains the higher its current consumption

If it's a centrifugal pump, the opposite is true. If it cannot deliver water, it uses less current

A young, apprentice Richard used to test experimental centrifugal pumps for aero engines. He was trained to always make sure the fuel output was shut before starting the rig. otherwise it would either wreck the motor or shear the drive shaft to the pump. 39,000 RPM takes a lot of power

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, RLWP said:

If it's a centrifugal pump, the opposite is true. If it cannot deliver water, it uses less current

A young, apprentice Richard used to test experimental centrifugal pumps for aero engines. He was trained to always make sure the fuel output was shut before starting the rig. otherwise it would either wreck the motor or shear the drive shaft to the pump. 39,000 RPM takes a lot of power

Richard

Interesting, I hadn’t thought of that before, but it makes sense. If there’s no output flow, the pump is just spinning water around and there are only frictional losses. Once there is flow, new water arrives all the time and has to be spun, taking quite a bit of power to do so due to its mass / angular momentum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 24/11/2017 at 10:42, RLWP said:

If it's a centrifugal pump, the opposite is true. If it cannot deliver water, it uses less current

A young, apprentice Richard used to test experimental centrifugal pumps for aero engines. He was trained to always make sure the fuel output was shut before starting the rig. otherwise it would either wreck the motor or shear the drive shaft to the pump. 39,000 RPM takes a lot of power

Richard

 

Seconded. 

In my line of business a heating pump is centrifugal, and has three speed settings. Changing the pump speed makes the tone of the pump change normally. When there is no circulation (for whatever reason), changing the pump speed makes no difference to the tone as it is doing no work. It runs at full speed whatever the 'speed' setting. I concluded this makes sense decades ago for the same reason Richard says.

The opposite occurs with positive displacement pumps, obviously.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, RLWP said:

If it's a centrifugal pump, the opposite is true. If it cannot deliver water, it uses less current

A young, apprentice Richard used to test experimental centrifugal pumps for aero engines. He was trained to always make sure the fuel output was shut before starting the rig. otherwise it would either wreck the motor or shear the drive shaft to the pump. 39,000 RPM takes a lot of power

Richard

and others.

I agree that when it finally does what I call cavitate because the rotor is just spinning in a sealed column of water but what happens when it is still moving water but against more pressure because of say a pipe restriction.

Genuine question because I have never tested such things but I would have thought it would load the motor to some degree and that implies more current.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

and others.

I agree that when it finally does what I call cavitate because the rotor is just spinning in a sealed column of water but what happens when it is still moving water but against more pressure because of say a pipe restriction.

Genuine question because I have never tested such things but I would have thought it would load the motor to some degree and that implies more current.

It does as I described. We tested pumps by throttling the output to reduce the load

Richard 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the OP is only using 10mm for the last few feet, then 10mm may be a help. Working on a friends Mikuni 40, which is piped in 22mm, the volume of water takes forever to rise to an acceptable level of comfort. As long as there is enough large pipework to give satisfactory protection to the appliance, you don't need to flood the system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

If the OP is only using 10mm for the last few feet, then 10mm may be a help. Working on a friends Mikuni 40, which is piped in 22mm, the volume of water takes forever to rise to an acceptable level of comfort. As long as there is enough large pipework to give satisfactory protection to the appliance, you don't need to flood the system.

 

What on earth does this mean!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

If the OP is only using 10mm for the last few feet, then 10mm may be a help. Working on a friends Mikuni 40, which is piped in 22mm, the volume of water takes forever to rise to an acceptable level of comfort. As long as there is enough large pipework to give satisfactory protection to the appliance, you don't need to flood the system.

The problem is that in order to encourage the flow to go down the 10mm pipes to the rads at the end of the run, you will have to throttle the rads near the boiler by turning down their lock shield valves (ie balancing the system) and so the point of the larger bore pipes to the rads nearer the boiler is somewhat lost. It would have been better if the near rads were in 10mm and the distant ones in 15mm but hey ho, it is what it is!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It means that if you have, for instance, large bore pipework to the calorifier, then using large bore over the rest of the system, increases the volume of water that the relatively small heat source has to heat, thus taking longer to reach a comfort temperature. The webasto recommendation is presumably to protect the boiler from overheating. Once this objective is achieved, the less volume you have aids efficiency. This is the thinking behind microbore and manifolds in a domestic house.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

The problem is that in order to encourage the flow to go down the 10mm pipes to the rads at the end of the run, you will have to throttle the rads near the boiler by turning down their lock shield valves (ie balancing the system) and so the point of the larger bore pipes to the rads nearer the boiler is somewhat lost. It would have been better if the near rads were in 10mm and the distant ones in 15mm but hey ho, it is what it is!

 

As explained in post 37 ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.