Shore line not working

[rusty69]

+1

[WotEver]

2 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

I’m not sure there is a problem. I think it could just be a case of the OP not realising that she is successfully switching between the inverter output and the shore power.

Absolutely this. Shore power and inverter are both live hence positions 1 & 2 both Work. 

[Flyboy]

17 minutes ago, WotEver said:

I sincerely hope that it hasn’t. Having two RCDs in series on the boat is a pain, and there should be one in (or adjacent to) the consumer unit which protects all sockets. 

Why?  The Recreation Craft Directive calls for an rcd not more that 1 metre from the incoming socket. 

[bizzard]

I wouldn't like being hung upside down.

[sharpness]

The "Polarity correct" indicator not appearing to be on could also be a red herring. Ours gradually faded over a few years on the shoreline so that it appeared not to be on when in fact nothing had changed. I got a replacement (and a spare) from RS Components, simple replacement.

[ditchcrawler]

30 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

Why?  The Recreation Craft Directive calls for an rcd not more that 1 metre from the incoming socket. 

Does it?

[nicknorman]

3 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Does it?

No, it doesn’t.

It does require an overcurrent trip within 0.5m of the inlet, or within 3m if the cabling is trunked. But that is not relevant to the point in question!

34 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

Why?  The Recreation Craft Directive calls for an rcd not more that 1 metre from the incoming socket. 

No it doesn’t.

[Alway Swilby]

7 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

No, it doesn’t.

It does require an overcurrent trip within 0.5m of the inlet, or within 3m if the cabling is trunked. But that is not relevant to the point in question!

No it doesn’t.

So maybe the over current trip has tripped? 

[nicknorman]

1 minute ago, Alway Swilby said:

So maybe the over current trip has tripped? 

But the shore power is probably working!

Normally the cabling is trunked if the run is more than 0.5m - much cheaper and easier than adding another MCB. That is even assuming the boat is compliant with the RCD!

Edited November 21, 2017 by nicknorman

[Alway Swilby]

Just now, nicknorman said:

But it’s probably working!

I thought the original problem is that it isn't working? 

[rusty69]

Just now, Alway Swilby said:

I thought the original problem is that it isn't working? 

I thought the problem was they didn't know how to work it

[nicknorman]

2 minutes ago, Alway Swilby said:

I thought the original problem is that it isn't working? 

If you read it carefully you’ll see that the boat is powered with the switch in positions 1 and 2, when both the inverter and the shore power are on. So most likely the OP is just switching between shore power and inverter power without realising. The polarity indicator isn’t working which is causing confusion.

Edited November 21, 2017 by nicknorman

[Alway Swilby]

5 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

If you read it carefully you’ll see that the boat is powered with the switch in positions 1 and 2, when both the inverter and the shore power are on. So most likely the OP is just switching between shore power and inverter power without realising. The polarity indicator isn’t working which is causing confusion.

Ah ok. That would make sense.

[Drayke]

What Rockhopper needs to do is disconnect the shore power but leave the inverter on, then turn the rotary switch through all of the different positions and note which position gives power to the RCD, then plug the shore power back in and turn off the inverter, do the same thing with the rotary switch and note which position gives power to the RCD. Usually 0=off 1=Shore power 2=Inverter 3=Generator.  As others have said the correct polarity light might not be working.

[Rockhopper]

Ok, I did post a reply via my phone a few hours ago but it didn't seem to show, anyhow, that's by the way...

We are delighted to confirm that we are now successfully connected to the shore line power! Hurrah!

We followed your instructions Nicknorman and turned the inverter off at the switch on the unit itself and on a green operating keypad pinned to the wall. We also removed the plug from the unit (thanks Alway Swilby ). With the shore line power connected, we then tested all the switches 0-3 and found that the red 'system on' stayed lit and the power sockets worked only when turned to switch 1. All other switches turned the red light off and thus the power sockets didn't work.

At first we thought it was too good to be true as the red light on the bollard outside was not flashing which indicates you are drawing power. However, we were aware we only had lights on and a phone charging so we plugged a fan heater in to bump up the usage and hey presto, the red light started flashing! Double confirmation  

Strangely, the lights in the ceiling remained on during all switch turns, not sure if that's because they run from the solar unit? I'm full of other questions but will leave it there for tonight  

I want to thank you all again for your generosity at taking the time to reply to my post, just amazing, you're all bloom'in lovely  

P.S. Rusty69 was spot on, the issue was us not knowing how to work it!

[Rockhopper]

And yes Nicknorman, the lack of the polarity light was causing confusion as the reference guide for the boat indicated that it would light up when shore line power was connected, got us scratching our heads and overthinking everything!

[rusty69]

5 hours ago, Rockhopper said:

Strangely, the lights in the ceiling remained on during all switch turns, not sure if that's because they run from the solar unit? I'm full of other questions but will leave it there for tonight

They will likely run from your battery bank. (hopefully domestic, not engine), which will hopefully be on charge now you have mains electricity. 

 

Glad you got it sorted 

Edited November 22, 2017 by rusty69

[mross]

My guess is that the shore cable is wired incorrectly.  Borrow a cable from another boat and eliminate this possibility.  I know you say it has been checked but the correct polarity should be lit and it makes sense to heed this warning.

no longer relevant

Edited November 22, 2017 by mross

[WotEver]

3 minutes ago, mross said:

My guess is that the shore cable is wired incorrectly.  Borrow a cable from another boat and eliminate this possibility.  I know you say it has been checked but the correct polarity should be lit and it makes sense to heed this warning.

It doesn’t light on inverter either so it’s far more likely to be the lamp itself than the wiring. 

[GUMPY]

2 minutes ago, mross said:

My guess is that the shore cable is wired incorrectly.  Borrow a cable from another boat and eliminate this possibility.  I know you say it has been checked but the correct polarity should be lit and it makes sense to heed this warning.

Not always so  the polarity indicator can be wired N-E and only indicates when there is incorrect polarity.

[WotEver]

5 hours ago, Rockhopper said:

We are delighted to confirm that we are now successfully connected to the shore line power! Hurrah!

Now label the Switch neatly. Instead of 1,2,3 label it Shore, Inverter, Genny. 

[Guest]

7 minutes ago, mross said:

 

Edited November 22, 2017 by MJG
Superfulous

[WotEver]

1 minute ago, Loddon said:

Not always so  the polarity indicator can be wired N-E and only indicates when there is incorrect polarity.

As it’s labelled “Correct Polarity” that is unlikely. 

5 hours ago, Rockhopper said:

Strangely, the lights in the ceiling remained on during all switch turns, not sure if that's because they run from the solar unit?

They’ll be 12V lights running from the domestic Batteries. 

[nicknorman]

5 hours ago, Rockhopper said:

Ok, I did post a reply via my phone a few hours ago but it didn't seem to show, anyhow, that's by the way...

We are delighted to confirm that we are now successfully connected to the shore line power! Hurrah!

We followed your instructions Nicknorman and turned the inverter off at the switch on the unit itself and on a green operating keypad pinned to the wall. We also removed the plug from the unit (thanks Alway Swilby ). With the shore line power connected, we then tested all the switches 0-3 and found that the red 'system on' stayed lit and the power sockets worked only when turned to switch 1. All other switches turned the red light off and thus the power sockets didn't work.

At first we thought it was too good to be true as the red light on the bollard outside was not flashing which indicates you are drawing power. However, we were aware we only had lights on and a phone charging so we plugged a fan heater in to bump up the usage and hey presto, the red light started flashing! Double confirmation  

Strangely, the lights in the ceiling remained on during all switch turns, not sure if that's because they run from the solar unit? I'm full of other questions but will leave it there for tonight  

I want to thank you all again for your generosity at taking the time to reply to my post, just amazing, you're all bloom'in lovely  

P.S. Rusty69 was spot on, the issue was us not knowing how to work it!

Normally, interior lighting is 12v running directly from the domestic batteries. Those batteries are charged from the engine and the solar, as well as the battery charger when on shore power or with the generator running. The batteries also power things like the water pumps and maybe the fridge. Battery management is a complicated issue that has scope for a whole other thread, but suffice it to say that it’s important to fully charge the batteries daily. Leaving the batteries in a state of discharge for several days leads to an effect called sulphation which can cause their demise in just a few months or even weeks. For much of the year your solar may well charge them adequately but at this time of year you don’t get much out of solar and probably need to supplement it with running the engine or using the battery charger / shore power.

[rusty69]

Listen to nicknorman, he is a genius!