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I think I would retain the bottom of the door behind a lip, so it's sitting in a socket but able to tilt forwards. One or two magnetic catches at the top, or simple brass turn catch, and handle at top, so that to open you pull top of door towards you and lift out.

Edited by Rick-n-Jo
new thought
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I just screwed 2 (proper) brass screws in the bottom edge of the door then sawed the heads off leaving 1/4" sticking out & drilled two holes in the bottom of the door frame to take those "pegs" . A smart turn button on the top finished the job off. Works well in the passage way on the cassette door where a sideways door would get in the way.

Steve

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10 hours ago, sharpness said:

I just screwed 2 (proper) brass screws in the bottom edge of the door then sawed the heads off leaving 1/4" sticking out & drilled two holes in the bottom of the door frame to take those "pegs" . A smart turn button on the top finished the job off. Works well in the passage way on the cassette door where a sideways door would get in the way.

Steve

I like this. The idea of pegs to locate with a nice but inexpensive turnbuckle at the top. I was also thinking of the type of catch that drop side trailers use but was struggling to see how to mount them in the frame 

10 hours ago, F DRAYKE said:

it was these I replace. They damage if the door isn't offered just right. 

12 hours ago, system 4-50 said:

Fit lifting hinges - the ones where the door rises as it opens to make it self-closing - to both sides of the door. Then it can be lifted off, not using the turn action of the hinge at all.

my original thought, but my doors are inset so the lift could only be 10mm max. 

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In my sailaway I have used soft close draw runners (www.screwfix.com/p/hafele-ball-bearing-drawer-runners-250mm/7855j)  on my electric cupboard doors, my calorifier door all my wardrobe doors and even made a cupboard hung on them which is at 90 degrees to a wardrobe door in the bedroom wall separating the bathroom from the bedroom which slides in to the passage to allow access to one of the wardrobes. Allows a great deal of flexibility in accessing all the storage space. Galley doors are normal soft close type.

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42 minutes ago, jddevel said:

In my sailaway I have used soft close draw runners (www.screwfix.com/p/hafele-ball-bearing-drawer-runners-250mm/7855j)  on my electric cupboard doors, my calorifier door all my wardrobe doors and even made a cupboard hung on them which is at 90 degrees to a wardrobe door in the bedroom wall separating the bathroom from the bedroom which slides in to the passage to allow access to one of the wardrobes. Allows a great deal of flexibility in accessing all the storage space. Galley doors are normal soft close type.

How do you use these to operate a door?

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4 hours ago, bastion said:

Chasmood track. Top section has deeper recess so lift the door up and pull out from bottom then remove. If two doors are side by side they could be sliding 

Whereas this seems like a lot of work if the door cannot slide, I can see the application of two strips of brass, or even wood but brass would look nice, so that the same thing happens, lift up to release at the bottom. 

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48 minutes ago, Pierre Thomas said:

How do you use these to operate a door?

In all instances a piece of timber was fixed/placed in a suitable position across the front of the cupboard on which the "female" shall I call it was screwed and the "male" section was then screwed to the door. Once the two were then placed together the door slide sideways. Unfortunately as I`m not at the boat cannot take any photos to explain.

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