Bromleyxphil Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 I went to have a good look around a nearly finished boat at my boatbuilder yesterday so now can start to work through my problems before mine is built. I intend to lock the sliding hatch with a simple recessed bar that lifts up into the hatch top and slides over the front lip to open and drops into a u shape section on the front face to close. The rear doors open outwards and I don’t like the look of the tags with holes in on the pictured boat. It doesn’t look easy to lock the rear doors particularly at the top. I have searched and read lots of posts this morning but not found an answer, lots of threads are difficult to follow with the now lack of Dropbox images. Any good ideas or pictures of how you secure your rear doors? Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 Another method would be to use a mortise lock with hooks in the hatch that bolts into the two doors. Something like... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scholar Gypsy Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 I will post a photo in a day or two. I secure the hatch with a padlock through a hole in the slide, and the door with a bar through the bottom of the floor that is connected to a removeable plate on the inside. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenataomm Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 I'd recommend a robust security padlock that hides the bar and connect it to a robust hasp. If they want to get into your boat, they will. They more difficult you make it they more expensive damage they'll do. No boat is impossible to break into. Make it time consuming so they'll move off down to find easier prey. On my home mooring I don't actually lock my boat, also I leave nothing of value on board. When away from the boat on a trip I do lock it, and hang a sign that says due to numerous break ins the interior is booby trapped, it will hurt, you will bleed and I'll have a copy of your DNA. I'm not saying here how I booby trap it, and I know the sign is illegal because it is written in English. However I can not find an international sign for spring loaded razor wire. The best tip is do not lock anything inside the boat, once on they'll smash any cupboard they find as clearly you've hidden something in there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWM Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 I have this arrangement on our back doors, very secure. You could use Enfield garage door locks, they are quite bulky but strong, secure and can be opened from both inside and out. This is useful as it doesn't announce the fact that you are not at home. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 What prevents someone sliding the flat bar to the left or right to clear the pieces at each end and the just using the length of the round tube to bend it upwards? Of course the tube might be solid bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWM Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 (edited) 21 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said: What prevents someone sliding the flat bar to the left or right to clear the pieces at each end and the just using the length of the round tube to bend it upwards? Of course the tube might be solid bar. The bar is solid stainless and it would probably be easier to bend the boat! The tolerance of the holes is quite tight and the lug containing the hole in the bar is at a slight angle, these minimise any side play. The choice of padlock further limits both movement and prevents access for bolt croppers. In the end it is stronger than the wooden back cabin that it is attached to. Edited October 28, 2017 by BWM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 Thanks, I supsected that was it. I think I would have been tempted to weld a boss on top of the "staple" on the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWM Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said: Thanks, I supsected that was it. I think I would have been tempted to weld a boss on top of the "staple" on the slide. How would that work? I'm all for any improvement in security. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 It would lengthen the amount of bar in the "staple" so giving even less sideways play. However your bar is of a finite length so probably not worth doing now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmelly Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 My advice is never put any padlocks etc on show when securing your boat you are just SHOUTING OUT hey I am not home take your time and smash your way in. Best are simple key operated locks as with any other kind of door. As stated by others said scumbags will get in if they want to anyway and big locks just means more damage. The best security by a country mile is a big dog. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuthound Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 1 hour ago, mrsmelly said: My advice is never put any padlocks etc on show when securing your boat you are just SHOUTING OUT hey I am not home take your time and smash your way in. Best are simple key operated locks as with any other kind of door. As stated by others said scumbags will get in if they want to anyway and big locks just means more damage. The best security by a country mile is a big dog. I agree with this. My boat came with long flat steel bars front and rear, that can be padlocked over hoops to secure both front and back doors, in addition to normal door locks. The previous owner said he had been broken into twice, both times they smashed one of large saloon windows. He then replaced these with laminated glass. I haven't used the security bars in three and a half years of ownership, as I have the same philosophy on security as you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromleyxphil Posted October 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 thanks for all of the info and the pics guys. I also found this example and will show you pics on this thread of the solution I actually use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 10 minutes ago, Bromleyxphil said: thanks for all of the info and the pics guys. I also found this example and will show you pics on this thread of the solution I actually use. I’m surprised many more don’t use this method, although I would use the hook type of mortise so you can’t lift the hatch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromleyxphil Posted October 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 Where there any thoughts on my use of a recessed bar to lock the sliding hatch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Kedian Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 I fit oak cross bars as in picture could be fitted on back doors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sea Dog Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 4 minutes ago, Robbo said: I’m surprised many more don’t use this method, although I would use the hook type of mortise so you can’t lift the hatch. Mine's like the one in Bromleyxphil's photo. I like it because it doesn't look different whether your onboard or away from your boat whereas, as Mrsmelly pointed out, a padlock rather highlights the latter. The other similarity with mine I'd the hook arrangement as the open door holdback. I despise this paint-chipping arrangement and would dearly love a more elegant solution, possibly involving something magnetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artleknock Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 Do what you like, it won't defeat a gas axe or a cordless angle grinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewildered Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 you could weld one of these to the doors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haggis Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 2 hours ago, KEDIAN said: I fit oak cross bars as in picture could be fitted on back doors Could entry not be made by just breaking the glass above the bar or to the sides? I agree that padlocks on the outside of a boat just say "I am unoccupied, you can take your time breaking in and helping yourself" haggis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Kedian Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 21 minutes ago, haggis said: Could entry not be made by just breaking the glass above the bar or to the sides? I agree that padlocks on the outside of a boat just say "I am unoccupied, you can take your time breaking in and helping yourself" haggis Yes and the windows on the cabin sides I make solid doors as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scholar Gypsy Posted October 29, 2017 Report Share Posted October 29, 2017 Sorry rather bad photos - by the time I remembered this task it had got dark. The first shows the gadget I had made. The second shows it in position - it fits into a slot in the engine room floor. Apologies for the photo of the camera strap, and for the amount of extraneous clobber in the shot. The third shows the doors locked, and my foot (again). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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