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How do I build a Perspex window in a side hatch?


ALAN DENMAN

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 Hi , I would like to create a Perspex window or screen to fit into the side hatch of my boat. Does anyone know of a good resource or YouTube video or have advice on the best way to do this so that it is both easily removable and well sealed so that cold air and rain cannot get in.

many thanks

Edited by ALAN DENMAN
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2 hours ago, ALAN DENMAN said:

 Hi , I would like to create a Perspex window or screen to fit into the side hatch of my boat. Does anyone know of a good resource or YouTube video or have advice on the best way to do this so that it is both easily removable and well sealed so that cold air and rain cannot get in.

many thanks

I've been thinking about doing the same thing but have not yet come up with a good solution to the problem so any suggestions welcome. 

I am thinking a of using a ram fit I. E something I can wedge against the side door trim but can't think of a suitable material to edge the  frame with that will give a good seal and will hold the frame in place. 

Only want to use it temporarily when moored up and dont want to compromise existing side doors and fittings. Does not need to be secure as will be removed when off the boat. 

Any  ideas, particularly on edging materials,  welcome 

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Our boat came with home made perspex windows. Not the most sophisticated items but they 'fit the bill'. The sheet - one for each side - is the same size as the hole in the boat. A drawer pull/cupboard door handle (plastic) is fitted top and bottom so there is something to hang onto. The hatches have a wooden frame with internal glazed doors so the screens also have a small bolt top and bottom which fix them in place. The biggest concern that I had was the steel, outside doors to the side hatches. These are timber lined so that they look nice when closed. But, when open, the timber lining is obviously outside. Cue frantic activity when it started raining. However, the doors (which had already suffered from the wet) are now painted so the whole setup is waterproof. Basically, my windows are solely the perspex sheet - no frame used.

PS - keep an eye on Aldi/Lidl. They often sell reels of self adhesive 'seals' in various profiles and colours. Typically about 4 to 5 cm wide. Very flexible and would give a good seal around removable windows without adding much to weight or cost.

Edited by Opener
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Make sure you get good quality acrylic sheet.  The stuff sold at B&Q etc. is thin and scratches easily and becomes discoloured.

I used 5mm acrylic sheet from http://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk/

Bolts and handles are fastened using 3mm nuts and bolts.  Acrylic sheet is easy to drill.  The cranked bolts are located in small tags. 

Because the window overlaps the window opening, no rain enters the boat and there is no need for any sealing.  

20171014_085137.jpg.46410e39d2840f055f565c268a021f94.jpg

Because this is part of an undercloth conversion, there is a small strip of canvas which prevents the top of the window from letting in rain.  If I had a conventional cabin side, I'd add a discrete strip of wood at the top of the windo opening to act as a rain divertor.

Edited by koukouvagia
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I cut a sheet of clear plastic that would just fit the side door aperture from outside, so tight you have to position it correctly to get past the body of the hinges. I then made a wooden frame that was a closeish fit to the inside aperture out of hard wood about 8 X 12 mm, finally I cut a second thinner (cheaper) piece of clear plastic to fit the frame. I then sandwiched the frame between the two pieces of plastic, the out being very strong.

To fit I have to open the side doors and fit the window from the outside, it has to be fiddled past the hinges to get it in place and would be very difficult to leaver out from the outside and its also double glazed. I wont go into fixings. 

 

See the crappie drawing below

window .jpg

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On Tuesday, October 17, 2017 at 17:06, koukouvagia said:

Make sure you get good quality acrylic sheet.  The stuff sold at B&Q etc. is thin and scratches easily and becomes discoloured.

I used 5mm acrylic sheet from http://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk/

Bolts and handles are fastened using 3mm nuts and bolts.  Acrylic sheet is easy to drill.  The cranked bolts are located in small tags. 

Because the window overlaps the window opening, no rain enters the boat and there is no need for any sealing.  

20171014_085137.jpg.46410e39d2840f055f565c268a021f94.jpg

Because this is part of an undercloth conversion, there is a small strip of canvas which prevents the top of the window from letting in rain.  If I had a conventional cabin side, I'd add a discrete strip of wood at the top of the windo opening to act as a rain divertor.

We did a very similar design to yours though the bolts are top and bottom, with handles at the sides. Used polycarbonate, which remains clear and scratch free years later it was supplied and cut to size by a local glass firm. Perspex goes cloudy over time.

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You need the same stuff they use to put in widows in deprived areas when the glass got broken, one trade name is Macron, (probably spelt wrong) you can even bend it in a sheet metal folder. We use to make packing machine guards out of it so you could see the product but keep the fingers out

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On 10/19/2017 at 10:57, Scholar Gypsy said:

I will post a photo of my solution to this problem shortly - depending on when I next get to the boat... 

Here's a photo of the window in its stowage position, and then installed in the side doorway. Note the small gap at the bottom so the children could still feed the ducks. Teh battens are held together by bolts and wing nuts. I haven't used this for a few years but it still works ..

DSCF1635.JPG

DSCF1640.JPG

DSCF1644.JPG

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We used a sheet of 10 mm thick perspex sheet, supplied by an e-bay supplier and cut to fit side door aperture less a nominal clearance. The sheet fits inside the recess for the doors and is inserted whilst stood inside the boat. Without any additional frame the sheet was drilled and tapped to take threaded bolts to fit 4 No side catches and no handles . We use the catches to hold onto when lifting into place. 

If I had to make another I would drill two holes at mid height to take a short loop of elasticated cord on each side with hooks fitted on the inside /cabin side to hold in place, a lot easier that drilling and tapping threaded holes.

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