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Isuzu 55 Manual


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Hello,

 

After my previous thread regarding the coil not heating up in my calorifier, it seems that my heat exchanger doesnt seem to be pumping water round and may need a new impeller in the water pump. Does anybody have the workshop & or service manual for this engine as isuzu didnt seem to want to help and engines plus wanted £60 for a manual!

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Regards

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57 minutes ago, Mitchellmoxo said:

Hello,

 

After my previous thread regarding the coil not heating up in my calorifier, it seems that my heat exchanger doesnt seem to be pumping water round and may need a new impeller in the water pump. Does anybody have the workshop & or service manual for this engine as isuzu didnt seem to want to help and engines plus wanted £60 for a manual!

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Regards

Are you sure you don’t have an airlock?

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2 hours ago, Mitchellmoxo said:

Hello,

 

After my previous thread regarding the coil not heating up in my calorifier, it seems that my heat exchanger doesnt seem to be pumping water round and may need a new impeller in the water pump. Does anybody have the workshop & or service manual for this engine as isuzu didnt seem to want to help and engines plus wanted £60 for a manual!

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Regards

If this is a narrowboat it is highly questionable if you have a heat exchanger, let alone a water pump that uses changeable impellers.

Ask whoever told you that to show you the said water pump and heat exchanger - I bet they can't. The only water pump impeller on typical narrowboats are metal ones pressed onto the engine water pump shaft so not removable and even if they were a faulty one would cause very quick overheating.

I refer you to Wotever's reply.

Tell us what you have done since we replied to your last question. maybe post some photos of the engine and pipework.

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Thanks for the reply. I will post photos asap. 

 

I am am not getting water sent around the calorifier coil. Definitely no blockages and no air in the system, I can see water moving when I take the cap off the header tank but the water seems quite foamy which worries me. 

The only other thing I could think of is does the thermostat open at a certain temp and then start sending water aound the coil or is it all part of the same circuit as the skin tank? 

 

Regards

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It depends upon how the engine mariniser or boat fitter  has decided to implement the calorifier circuit.

Most boats feed the calorifier from the engine side of the thermostat. Some feed from the skin tank side of the stat that in my view is asking for circulation problems. A few have a separate calorifier thermostat that will not open until a temperature a bit higher than the engine stat is reached. Barrus tend to do this but yours is an Isuzu and I do not know about them for sure but I would  expect them to be the first type.

I am afraid just stating there is no air in the system is no help at all. What have you actually done to check this? At this stage with the info we have air is the most likely.

If it has never worked then if it is a twin coil calorifier its possible one hose from the engine and one hose from the heating system is on the wrong spigot but if that is the case I would have expected the heating header tank to overflow whenever the engine warmed up and you would suffer a loss of cooling water.

Sometimes a non-return valve is fitted to the calorifier circuit to prevent loss of heat by thermo-syphoning at night. If so then maybe its the wrong type of valve, been fitted backwards or is stuck closed.

We simply do not know what you have unless we can see images.

If you can see water moving when you take the cap off the header tank then that might point to a problem. I doubt you took it off when hot otherwise you may well have been scalded so I assume the engine was cold. If so and coolant was moving straight away, before the engine temperature reached over 60C then it suggests the engine thermostat is stuck open or missing. If so you would not get much hot water and then only just warm after several hours of running. It is just possible a remote header tank might be part of a bypass circuit but its very unlikely. That is usually taken care of by the calorifier circuit or within the engine water galleries.

The foaming just might be from where someone has added a cooling system cleaner because they though the pipes were blocked. It might be air coming out of the system , it might be a leaking head gasket,. If its the latter I would expect fairly rapid overheating and a scalding hot calorifier unless the thermostat has been removed, then it would just take longer.

Anyway it proves the water pump impeller is in place and working.

 

 

 

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Thanks for the detailed reply I am heating engineer by trade so when I say there is no air locks in the system I know this is 100% not the problem. I have even taken the flow off while running and not got any flow. Only when it's lower than the header tank but that's obviously just gravity. And loosened the jubilee onto the coil while running so any air could escape. Air is not the problem trust me otherwise I wouldn't be posting on the forum asking for advice as air and a blocked coil is the first thing I checked. 

 

Regards

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May I point out that nowhere in this thread had you given us any idea about your trade or practical competence therefor we had no idea about what you had actually done - even when asked about that. In those circumstances a difference between very common fault symptoms and a questioners statement makes me (and others) decide on balance the questioner is wrong. At least now we know you are probably not. We also know that you know what a NRV looks like and the difference between a spring loaded and flap type. We can also now assume that you can work out where to fit and  which way round to fit such a valve to allow normal flow but prevent themo-syphoning. This leaves two possibilities. No engine  thermostat so it never warms up or calorifier connections wrong.

I would add to WotEver's request for a photo that you mark where each pipe runs from/to. It will also help if we get a marked photo of the engine end as well.

 

 

 

Edited by Tony Brooks
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