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Brass cabin light switch


blackrose

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Or... buy one of those SS ones and swap the gubbins onto your old brass plate. 

Note that they’re not actually rated for 12V switching so if the circuit is any more than an amp or so it might be worth using a relay in the circuit. 

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1 hour ago, blackrose said:

Does anyone know where I can find one of these in brass? Just need a single switch as a replacement for one that's broken.

https://www.limekilnchandlers.co.uk/stainless-steel-single-light-switch.html

I've been searching but can't seem to find one.

Thanks

My browser will not open that link as the security licence has expired (aparently), but if you are lookong for a standard brasss 3 1/4" square single light switch, I have a box full (various styles.) How many do you want?

Edied to add:- I have managed to open the link in IE. The switches I have a bit bigger than that - 83mm x 83mm with the holes at the sides, but I am sure I have a couple with rounded over edges.

Edited by David Schweizer
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39 minutes ago, David Schweizer said:

My browser will not open that link as the security licence has expired (aparently), but if you are lookong for a standard brasss 3 1/4" square single light switch, I have a box full (various styles.) How many do you want?

Edied to add:- I have managed to open the link in IE. The switches I have a bit bigger than that - 83mm x 83mm with the holes at the sides, but I am sure I have a couple with rounded over edges.

Not got a calc with me but isn't 83mm equivalent to 3.25 inches?

Ian.

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1 hour ago, blackrose said:

That's not a bad idea thanks.

I always thought they were 12v switches? Aren't they rated at 5amps on 12v? 

What makes you say they aren't rated for 12v?

It’s been discussed on here before. If you look at the switch itself it gives a 230V AC rating and gives no DC rating, yet chandlers have been selling them as 12V switches for years. Generally they cope ok but if they’re switching higher currents (especially an inductive load like a water pump) then don’t be surprised if they fail. 

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21 minutes ago, WotEver said:

It’s been discussed on here before. If you look at the switch itself it gives a 230V AC rating and gives no DC rating, yet chandlers have been selling them as 12V switches for years. Generally they cope ok but if they’re switching higher currents (especially an inductive load like a water pump) then don’t be surprised if they fail. 

For switching inductive loads I strap a suitable diode across the contacts to quench the back EMF.  'Makes switches and relays last longer.

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13 minutes ago, Taslim said:

For switching inductive loads I strap a suitable diode across the contacts to quench the back EMF.  'Makes switches and relays last longer.

That’ll help but it won’t change the physical characteristics of the contacts. 

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3 hours ago, WotEver said:

That’ll help but it won’t change the physical characteristics of the contacts. 

True and best to use a 'proper' DC rated switch but it will make the, usually cheaper, AC item last longer.

At £4 for twenty the diodes are a cheap helper.

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