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My money is on Iroko, as teak has not been used for lab benches for a very long time due to the staggering cost. You will find Iroko to be easier to work with than teak although it has interlocking grain which makes it tear out if you are not very carefull. If I am wrong and it proves to be teak you will not be able to machine it without investing in TCT cutters and planer knives, the blunting effect is spectacular!   You can only glue Iroko with epoxy resin two part glues although polyurethane is also reputed to work well with it.  Best of luck with it. Mike.

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I didn't get chance to learn dovetail joints. Woodwork only lasted two terms. Metalwork on the other hand, first up we made an ashtray. Imagine that n this day and age. This was followed by more useful objects such as shoehorns, shovels and trowels. It was great fun burning on the handle of the trowel.

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7 hours ago, RLWP said:

Odd view of Grammar schools there, David. 

Richard (O level metalwork, KEGS Aston)

I went to a 'direct grant public school' up to the age of 14 as a LA funded pupil that did woodwork for the lower grades who were not expected to progress to A level standard, but that may be because the entry requirements were lower for the paying pupils.

I moved and went to a highly rated (academic-wise) grammar school where no crafts were offered for any grades of pupil.

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4 hours ago, David Schweizer said:

If you can get one out and post  a picture with dimensions, I may be able to help. i put a box full of very fat countersunk woodscews into a charity aution last year. I know who bought them and i doubt that he has used many so i could try and claw a few back if he still has them.

Thanks David, much appreciated. I will take one out and do some measuring. 

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Having just spent the last couple of days sanding down our iroko wheelhouse, I am going to vote for this bit being iroko as it looks awfully similar now you've sanded it. I have some bits of teak sitting around too but the grain looks quite different.

Lovely bit of wood either way.

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19 hours ago, David Schweizer said:

If you can get one out and post  a picture with dimensions, I may be able to help. i put a box full of very fat countersunk woodscews into a charity aution last year. I know who bought them and i doubt that he has used many so i could try and claw a few back if he still has them.

I have measured the screw and attached a picture of it, and the bar that they fix in place. It is 1 1/2" long and the head is 14mm across-much longer and they would emerge outside! 

20170927_125221.jpg

20170927_125149.jpg

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The standard head size for a no. 16 woodscrew is 13.8mm diameter, so that is almost certainly an 1 1/2" x 16 countersunk steel woodscrew. Just to confirm, can you vernier the unthreaded shank just under the head, it should be about 6.82 mm. None of the suppliers I know of have any, but I think that there may have been a few in the lot my friend bought. How many do you need?

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2 hours ago, David Schweizer said:

The standard head size for a no. 16 woodscrew is 13.8mm diameter, so that is almost certainly an 1 1/2" x 16 countersunk steel woodscrew. Just to confirm, can you vernier the unthreaded shank just under the head, it should be about 6.82 mm. None of the suppliers I know of have any, but I think that there may have been a few in the lot my friend bought. How many do you need?

Nice set of coherent units there, David!

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7 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

Meranti?

Its about 75% for Iroko i reckon.

 

I dont think its Teak as i did cut the end off with a hand saw fairly easy, new`ish one though and didnt get a sweat on. 

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33 minutes ago, Machpoint005 said:

Nice set of coherent units there, David!

Nothing incoherent inconsistent there at all. I have used the same units a BWM used in his post. which are the normal way screws are measured. if you cannot understand them perhaps you would like to convert the metric head size to imperial  and then set that dimension on a vernier  :banghead:

Edited by David Schweizer
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On 9/26/2017 at 09:06, starman said:

Two points: iroko dust can be very unpleasant if you get it in your eyes (I found out the hard way when lying under a worktop drilling tap holes).

And I'm probably in a minority of one in not rating Le Tonkinois - we carefully treated our newly made 'bastard mahogany' dog box with about six coats in the workshop. Within a year it had dramatically faded and even peeled in large areas. Sanded back and used Epifanes instead - much better. 

How was it applied ( the Le Tonkinois ) as in prep work and coat intervals ?

 

Not saying you did it wrong but interested as i have been reading up on it and yet have to see a bad feed back on it. I dont want to go making any mistakes on application.   

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6 hours ago, David Schweizer said:

The standard head size for a no. 16 woodscrew is 13.8mm diameter, so that is almost certainly an 1 1/2" x 16 countersunk steel woodscrew. Just to confirm, can you vernier the unthreaded shank just under the head, it should be about 6.82 mm. None of the suppliers I know of have any, but I think that there may have been a few in the lot my friend bought. How many do you need?

I would say that the shank is most certainly that by eye, will check in the morning. Material is brass but not too worried about that, the length x head size has been the problem- I have temporarily glued heads hacksawed off of countersunk bolts to fill the missing ones. There are seven missing.  

 

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19 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Exactly what I was wondering. And was it flatted between coats? (It shouldn’t be). 

This extract from the LeTonk FAQ's suggests it is OK to sand between coats if the coat has been on for more than a few days.

What is the recommended recoat time and what if I need to leave it longer?
We recommend 24 hours minimum in normal temperatures, if you apply it too early it occasionally causes problems with later coats. There is no maximum time between coats but if it is longer than a few days lightly sand and clean the surface with white spirit to remove any contamination before applying. In cold weather increase the time between coats, see later question for more details.
Edited by cuthound
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Yes, but the reason is more about achieving a clean surface (albeit lightly abraded) than it is about ‘keying’ the next coat. Le Tonk soaks well into the wood and subsequent coats still soak in, resulting in a more ‘natural’ appearance than Epifanes. With Epifanes and other varnishes you flat between every coat and if you persevere you end up with a glass-like finish (which inevitably cracks and peels). You don’t do that with Le Tonk, so you get a more ‘plasticy’ kind of finish (a bit like 2 pack resin) which doesn’t crack or peel, it simply goes dull. But you do need a clean base, and a good 6 coats with 24 hours between coats (in good weather) to enable it to cure correctly. 

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1 hour ago, WotEver said:

Exactly what I was wondering. And was it flatted between coats? (It shouldn’t be). 

It's three years ago now so I honestly can't remember but the unit was freshly made and varnished in the workshop. Starwoman did it - she does all the painting & decorating on the boat and at home so she knows her stuff. If it said on the tin it needed six coats then that's what it got. 

Im mystified why it didn't last - I've never heard a bad word about the stuff - but it didn't. 

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13 hours ago, BWM said:

I would say that the shank is most certainly that by eye, will check in the morning. Material is brass but not too worried about that, the length x head size has been the problem- I have temporarily glued heads hacksawed off of countersunk bolts to fill the missing ones. There are seven missing.  

 

I have spoken to my friend, and he is going to have a look to see whether he has any suitable screws, but it may be a few days as he is away at the weekend. The screws will also be steel rather than brass.

In the meantime i have found these on ebay:-       http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-EXTRA-LARGE-SLOTTED-BRASS-CSK-WOOD-SCREWS-16-x-1-VINTAGE-NETTLEFOLDS/263200510607?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

They are 1 3/4" x 16  but you could cut 1/4" off them, and as long as there are decent pilot holes they should work OK.  a bit expensive though. 

The Seller has lots of other old stock screws.  I could not find any 1 1/2" x 16 screws, but you could try writing to the seller to ask if he has any the size you want, he seems to sell in lots of ten, so he may have a few odd ones remaining form a boxfull.

Edited by David Schweizer
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