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Little Wenlock Top Replacement


Midnight

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What age is your fire as I have got a cracked hob on my Aga little Wenlock classic which I have bought a new hob for. I am thinking that the flue pipes need removing and then empty fire and then undo the two nuts that are under the fire each side. Then simply lift the hob up

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1 hour ago, Tonka said:

What age is your fire as I have got a cracked hob on my Aga little Wenlock classic which I have bought a new hob for. I am thinking that the flue pipes need removing and then empty fire and then undo the two nuts that are under the fire each side. Then simply lift the hob up

Mine is a MK2 bought about 14 years ago. I bought a new top from AGA but was wondering how I seal it when it's fitted - fire cement, rope, high temp silicon etc?

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1 hour ago, Midnight said:

Mine is a MK2 bought about 14 years ago. I bought a new top from AGA but was wondering how I seal it when it's fitted - fire cement, rope, high temp silicon etc?

Have you asked AGA?

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Good point Wotever, no I have not. I never seem to have much success with fire cement as it always seems to crack so was thinking of using high temp silicon but I am not sure if the BSS allows it to be used direct on the fire

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1 hour ago, WotEver said:

Have you asked AGA?

Yes I did but they won't tell me. The reason given is if they tell me and I don't fit it correctly and die from carbon monoxide poisoning I may sue them. F**king stupid people do they not realise if they don't tell me I am more likely to die. If so maybe someone here will sue them on my behalf for not telling me.

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2 hours ago, Tonka said:

Good point Wotever, no I have not. I never seem to have much success with fire cement as it always seems to crack so was thinking of using high temp silicon but I am not sure if the BSS allows it to be used direct on the fire

Yes it does. At least it would appear to do based on the fact that many here report using it on their stove to flue joints. 

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2 hours ago, Midnight said:

Yes I did but they won't tell me. The reason given is if they tell me and I don't fit it correctly and die from carbon monoxide poisoning I may sue them. F**king stupid people do they not realise if they don't tell me I am more likely to die. If so maybe someone here will sue them on my behalf for not telling me.

Look for an exploded parts diagram on line. Google "Little Wenlock parts" or similar.  That will show how it is held together and if there is a sealing rope (likely).  There are lots of stove parts suppliers and most of their websites ate helpful.  Their services may not be as good for your bank balance.  Caveat Emptor!

If not remove the top and look for whatever the sealing stuff is.  Glass rope is obvious, though not its size. Goo type sealants are also easy to spot.

If it is rope then a drill set will give you some idea of size if laid ibn the rope groove.

If it is goo then there are several high temperature sealants available. Google is your mate.

N

 

 

 

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When I changed mine (which is a boiler model) I stripped the whole stove down as I had been resealing the joints up yearly and the plates were sealing badly.

It was all original and its very simple -sort of tongue and groove.Loads of fire cement sealing it with no sign of any fire rope other than in the door.Absolute git to remove back to clean bare metal. 

Photo shows groove in back boiler and you can just about make out the tongue on the side plate (which is top of pile just behind). The whole thing is held together with 4 studs and nuts ( M6 I think) which fit through the lugs you can see on the side plate.

20161002_142406.jpg

Edited by PaulJ
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Started dismantling stove only to find a crack in the back plate, now not sure whether to replace whole fire and then do this one up to sell on. Main reason for saying that is that I am due to go away Sep 21 for 5 weeks on boat so quickest solution. Also thought about swapping fire for a different model but then would need a new flue pipe. Thought about putting a Ekol Clarity 5 kw in as it is the exact same height as the Wenlock but the baffle is not detachable so would be hard to clean out 

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I am in the middle of replacing my stove. It's a 18 year old squirrel. I removed the chimney collar bolts and pulled the collar and stove pipe out through the roof. I tapped the collar with a mooring hammer and it fell off. The stove pipe had corroded so badly it was about as thick as aluminium foil. I'd have a good look at yours while you have got it apart. 

DSC00546.JPG

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9 minutes ago, PaulJ said:

Have you tried RJPrice Tonka ?

 https://www.rjpryce.com/Products/wenlock-roomheater-spares

Dont list a back plate but may be able to get one possibly. I have used them several times and find the stove spares to be of better quality than some Ive bought and a better price too!

 

Unfortunately mine is an Aga made one and the that page states that they will not fit AGA

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I was reading some instructions about putting legs on a cast iron fire which stated that the "bolts which attach the legs to the fire should be hand tight (do not use spanner) only as cast iron is brittle" which got me thinking about the nuts that hold a Little Wenlock top and front on. How tight should they be done up then ?

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