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Enfield Z Drive


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I have recently purchased a Nauticus 27' and trying to refresh the interior and motor especially, I am unable to lift the Leg out of the water to examine the prop, etc.

Can anyone explain in simple terms now to lift it. I have noted several comments and unable to spot the pins required removing prior to the lift cogs being free to turn.

Many thanks for your help...

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I'm going to keep a eye on this post. I have the task of repairing the reverse gear on a enfield z drive this winter. It would be good to pick up any pointers to make the job easier. I have downloaded the manual and parts list from online ready to go. Here is a the link to the manual if you haven't already got it https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/davenrich/Assets/ENFIELD%20Z-DRIVE.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjosr6coejVAhVlCsAKHau6C9cQFggtMAE&usg=AFQjCNHwbkCm7SuINVD5bjL3aQy4ePS2EA

Dutch

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Hi Dutch,

I too have downloaded the Manual you forwarded previously, although I was a Tool Maker [Precision Engineering] I'm unable to follow the text accurately enough to workout the instructions let alone expand the diagrams larger enough to register the numbers reflected accordingly.

Thank you for your assistance & support.

Maybe someone out there can help us both.

B

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Usually there is a pin with a spring ring in the inboard end that is pulled to release the locking of the

leg looking aft on the left side of the unit as it exits the transom is a cup type unit you should have a handle that resembles a vintage car starting handle the straight end is drilled a right angles & a pin similar to an outboard sheer pin is pressed in this fits in the cup & you wind & the swivels up it does NOT tilt

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Hi Alan,

Thanks for the speedy response, does this pin have a cable attached which is connected through to a handle inside the wheelhouse located next to the choke cable?

There are 3 items located at this point, Blinge Pump; Choke and Another which looks like it's connected to an aluminium plate on the Transom [inboard]

Please confirm and many thanks,

B

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12 minutes ago, GreanneMea said:

Hi Alan,

Thanks for the speedy response, does this pin have a cable attached which is connected through to a handle inside the wheelhouse located next to the choke cable?

There are 3 items located at this point, Blinge Pump; Choke and Another which looks like it's connected to an aluminium plate on the Transom [inboard]

Please confirm and many thanks,

B

If it goes any where near the transom that possibly could be the "Fella"When you wind if no go try opposite direction IIRC it depends if you have a right or left hand leg could be wrong on that though

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Hi Alan,

Thanks for the response, I have looked at the pull linkage and sprayed with 'WD40' to help release the pin that appears stuck well and truly solid for the next trip to the boat in the hope it's given itself up [lol], otherwise I'll have to encourage with plyers or the like.

What does IIRC mean?

 

Edited by GreanneMea
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13 minutes ago, GreanneMea said:

Hi Alan,

Thanks for the response, I have looked at the pull linkage and sprayed with 'WD40' to help release the pin that appears stuck well and truly solid for the next trip to the boat in the hope it's given itself up [lol], otherwise I'll have to encourage with plyers or the like.

What does IIRC mean?

 

If I recall (or remember) correctly

Edited by Eeyore
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18 minutes ago, GreanneMea said:

Hi Alan,

Thanks for the response, I have looked at the pull linkage and sprayed with 'WD40' to help release the pin that appears stuck well and truly solid for the next trip to the boat in the hope it's given itself up [lol], otherwise I'll have to encourage with plyers or the like.

What does IIRC mean?

IIRC Short for If I Remember CorrectlyThe release locking pin if left & not worked for a long period & no grease can be a bug**r to release hope you have had success

 

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On 21/08/2017 at 12:55, Dutchman said:

I'm going to keep a eye on this post. I have the task of repairing the reverse gear on a enfield z drive this winter. It would be good to pick up any pointers to make the job easier. I have downloaded the manual and parts list from online ready to go. Here is a the link to the manual if you haven't already got it https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/davenrich/Assets/ENFIELD%20Z-DRIVE.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjosr6coejVAhVlCsAKHau6C9cQFggtMAE&usg=AFQjCNHwbkCm7SuINVD5bjL3aQy4ePS2EA

Dutch

An interesting read; I was particularly interested in the operating instruction on page 5 which explains how to engage forward or reverse.

I have seem many pictures of dog tooth damage which I would attribute to operator error. The phase I think is missing from the operating instructions would read something like:

"Move the morse (or other) control lever from neutral to forward (or reverse) in a swift and decisive manner" This is a "kindness" to dog clutches as a gentle approach simply knocks the ends off the teeth. Such damage makes gear changes progressively more difficult, and ultimately causes the clutch to disengage under load.

Edited by Eeyore
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20 hours ago, Eeyore said:

An interesting read; I was particularly interested in the operating instruction on page 5 which explains how to engage forward or reverse.

I have seem many pictures of dog tooth damage which I would attribute to operator error. The phase I think is missing from the operating instructions would read something like:

"Move the morse (or other) control lever from neutral to forward (or reverse) in a swift and decisive manner" This is a "kindness" to dog clutches as a gentle approach simply knocks the ends off the teeth. Such damage makes gear changes progressively more difficult, and ultimately causes the clutch to disengage under load.

That's certainly a good thing to know when I get it going,be desisive in gear changes.  I'm hoping that the clutch on mine is ok and it's just a gear selector rod that's bent. £9 acording to the parts list 

The people I bought mine off told me that they had a rope wrap around the prop and the engine stopped. Even though they replaced the prop and covering etc they were never able to put into reverse again.

As soon as I remount my crane on the back of my tug in the coming months I will hoist her back end out and have a proper mooch around.

Ps I hope the wd40 did the job

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Thanks for everyone for their support I never thought especially given the age of the boat it was not expected.

Once I've sorted some new and hopefully minor gremlins with the motor conking-out.  I took it for a test run 60-90mins and since parking-up I have developed a lack of smooth running, twice recently I hit the canal to get some sailing experience & the motor came to a halt on low rev's or when changing direction engaging 'Rev/Forward' the motor just losses its tick-over stalling the engine.

Does anyone know where I can buy an 'Air Filter' for my boat, there should be a washable sponge-like filter fitted - I'm told was a 'Speedwell-filter' but unable to source on the internet or local motor stores?

Thanks again.

 

 

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For now it does not need one so its not that causing the conking out. Just renove the foam if you have any.

What engine? Petrol or diesel? Its not a Perkins 4-xxx because they do not normally have air filters. my be a BMC 1.5 because they used washable wire mesh or open cell foam air filters. If so try Calcutt Boats or ASAP supplies.

If it is a wire mesh one then that can be replaced by an opened up stainless steel "Goldilocks" pan scourer for all the good they do in marine use.

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13 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

For now it does not need one so its not that causing the conking out. Just renove the foam if you have any.

What engine? Petrol or diesel? Its not a Perkins 4-xxx because they do not normally have air filters. my be a BMC 1.5 because they used washable wire mesh or open cell foam air filters. If so try Calcutt Boats or ASAP supplies.

If it is a wire mesh one then that can be replaced by an opened up stainless steel "Goldilocks" pan scourer for all the good they do in marine use.

The motor is a Ford Petrol inboard, there isn't a filter currently I'm worried of a back-fire sending a flame airbourne with all that dry wood surrounding it will give me grey hair.

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Then you need one with a metal mesh rather than foam so the metal takes heat away from the backfire. Measure the diameter of the carburettor top and see if any of the "Boy Racer" type suppliers can provide one to suit. I would have said look at K&N filters but I suspect they are all foam ones nowadays. It may be that the BMC ones will also fit, Look at Mini & MG specialist suppliers.

If you can find some brass or copper wire fine mesh you could secure this to the top of the carb. by a Jubilee clip. That will help stop a backfire flame.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

Then you need one with a metal mesh rather than foam so the metal takes heat away from the backfire. Measure the diameter of the carburettor top and see if any of the "Boy Racer" type suppliers can provide one to suit. I would have said look at K&N filters but I suspect they are all foam ones nowadays. It may be that the BMC ones will also fit, Look at Mini & MG specialist suppliers.

If you can find some brass or copper wire fine mesh you could secure this to the top of the carb. by a Jubilee clip. That will help stop a backfire flame.

At a pinch you can buy a kitchen strainer (metal mesh)cut the handle & rim wire off & as tony says scrunch up enough to secure around the Carb top with a clip.

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10 hours ago, X Alan W said:

At a pinch you can buy a kitchen strainer (metal mesh)cut the handle & rim wire off & as tony says scrunch up enough to secure around the Carb top with a clip.

Thanks for the tips Tony & Alan, I'll try the metal mesh plan.

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Petrol engines on a boat are a problem. Make sure that you use an earthing strop to avoid static electric spark when filling. Make sure that you use the vapour clearing fan to remove any explosive fumes from the bilges. Better still change the engine for a diesel. I used a set of mole grips to pull the locking pin. 

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4 hours ago, The Bagdad Boatman (waits) said:

Petrol engines on a boat are a problem. Make sure that you use an earthing strop to avoid static electric spark when filling. Make sure that you use the vapour clearing fan to remove any explosive fumes from the bilges. Better still change the engine for a diesel. I used a set of mole grips to pull the locking pin. 

I think adequate fuel system earthing is a mandatory part of the BSS.

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If it's petrol I'd extend that inlet manifold and pass it through the transom out the engine bay,regarding the z drive ,looking down on the port side inside the transom you will see a square steel bar  30 MM long (ish) get some mole grips on it and pull it towards you,they may or may not be other attachments on it but it needs to be pulled towards the engine flywheel,while holding it in this position turn the winding handle to rotate the leg,depending on the previous owners choice of direction,as a stop plate can either be fitted one way or another,as soon as you have rotated the leg 10 MM you can let go of them molegrips as the detent pin will have disengaged,just carry on winding then,if you just want to look at prop get your boat hook and a bit of rope and wrap it round the prop ,give it a good pull and Itl kick up like a outboard,you'll need 2 of you because you'll have to tie it up in position and there heavy buggers,oh and you may have to disconnect the gear cable ,if you need any help get back to me as I've just fitted all new bearings in mine plus a load of other bits.im not a leading orthority on them but I'm getting that way,my next thing to do on the leg is shim the top bevel gears after getting 2 sets mixed up,that's going to be interesting ,nick

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On 8/30/2017 at 19:46, GreanneMea said:

The motor is a Ford Petrol inboard, there isn't a filter currently I'm worried of a back-fire sending a flame airbourne with all that dry wood surrounding it will give me grey hair.

I owned a petrol engined Nauticus loved it to bits , it had a ford 1300 crossflow engine in it which i assume will be the same as yours, i went to a local motor factor and got plugs points condensor oil filter and oil and a chrome pancake air filter off the shelf,took an afternoon to service and ran like a swiss watch for the following 2 years before i sold it on... so really is well worth the effort of a service, parts including oil werent much more than 35 quid

Rick

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If its running properly then I would be more worried about petrol leaking from the throttle spindle when the engine is stopped than a backfire.

I have seen a number of older petrol engine sin boats where the carburettor needle valve is worn or the float badly adjusted where it floods when the engine is stopped  so petrol can leak into the engine  bay via worn throttle spindle.

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13 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

If its running properly then I would be more worried about petrol leaking from the throttle spindle when the engine is stopped than a backfire.

I have seen a number of older petrol engine sin boats where the carburettor needle valve is worn or the float badly adjusted where it floods when the engine is stopped  so petrol can leak into the engine  bay via worn throttle spindle.

Hey Tony/Rick,

Thanks for the information.

I've had a mechanic on-board today and hopefully sorted all the fuel issues, he managed to also strip the Carb finding a very worn/sticking needle valve, sticking float & a blockage in the fuel line too compounding the problems further.  The engine is now running very smoothly at the moment, long may that continue.

The service is now complete with plans to change to Electronic Ignition may assist - any ideas?

Brendan

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1 hour ago, GreanneMea said:

Hey Tony/Rick,

Thanks for the information.

I've had a mechanic on-board today and hopefully sorted all the fuel issues, he managed to also strip the Carb finding a very worn/sticking needle valve, sticking float & a blockage in the fuel line too compounding the problems further.  The engine is now running very smoothly at the moment, long may that continue.

The service is now complete with plans to change to Electronic Ignition may assist - any ideas?

Brendan

Some of the accessory shops used to sell after market electronic ignition systems sparkrite being the most popular ... personally i wouldnt bother if its running well, .... should you ever need it i have a brand new nikki twin choke carb for one of these engines i bought but never fitted

Rick

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If the engine is pre crossflow it probably has a Solex carb and Lucas distributer, contact breaker gap 12-14 thou, heel on a cam peak.  If crossflow it probably has a Fomoco carb and Autolite distributer which needs 25 thou contact breaker gap heel on a cam peak.  It is important to keep the 4 peak cam that the contacts heel runs on on both types lightly greased or the heel will wear down and the gap will close up causing missfires unti engine stops altogether. At the same time pull off the rotor arm and drip a couple of drops oil into the hollow centre spindle. When fitting new contacts the ignition timing should always be checked and adjusted, static timing will do.

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