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I am now down to two boatbuilders, this isn't the deciding factor but they both use a different finish on the top section of the cabin.  One has a rail and one a boxed section on the corner.  I was wondering what are the advantages and disadvantages of the two systems?

i have tried to attach two exemplar photos

phil

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I prefer the rail but with a slight overhang in towards the boat to enable a more secure grip. Unfortunately our Colecraft shell hasn't got this feature in our 1986 version. I imagine but don't know for certain but the rail might be more awkward to prep for repainting.

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The integral handrail stops water pouring down the side of the boat which helps window frames stay watertight and arguably keeps the cabin sides cleaner, but the gutters get dirty very quickly.  Also they are harder to grip and you cant lash ropes/fenders etc to them.  

When I had a boat with tubular rails I wanted integral rails.  Now I've got them I want tubular rails.  That seems to be the unwritten law of boat ownership.  

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Integral handrails are based on the detail usually applied to working boats. But some boats (e.g. Yarwoods boats built for GUCCCo) had rails, and a few had both.

In addition to the points raised above, integral rails stop small objects rolling off the cabin top. And while they stop rainwater randomly cascading over the cabin side they do concentrate the flow where you have a gap (or at the downhill end of the cabin top). If you have an upswept back end to the cabin, the low point in the roof may not coincide with a drainage gap.

Edited by David Mack
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Mine has the round grab rail but also has a D section (like straking) to provide an upstand. There are small cut-outs to allow for for drainage between the windows. I'm very happy with this set-up. In fact, I didn't realise it wasn't normal until I read this thread. Just about visible in the photo:

 

IMG_20170818_213817.jpg

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1 minute ago, stegra said:

Mine has the round grab rail but also has a D section (like straking) to provide an upstand. There are small cut-outs to allow for for drainage between the windows. I'm very happy with this set-up. In fact, I didn't realise it wasn't normal until I read this thread. Just about visible in the photo:

 

IMG_20170818_213817.jpg

Now you are just trying to confuse me even more!

My feeling is that I like the look of the box section but the rail seems more practical and safer in that it's easier to grab and use.  Does that sum it up or should I flick a coin?

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9 hours ago, Bromleyxphil said:

My feeling is that I like the look of the box section but the rail seems more practical and safer in that it's easier to grab and use.  Does that sum it up or should I flick a coin?

I reckon that's about it.  The rail can and should be set further from the roof edge than in the first picture for safety and ease.  It also slightly reduces the airdraft at the edge of the coachroof - which helps in arched bridges and tunnels.  It will increase the maximum airdraft but that is usually the lesser of the problem.

The box section looks nicer, generally. 

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The two boats I have owned have both had box section handrails, which worked very well although ultimately they cannot be as safe as tubular rails where the hand can be wrapped around the bar for a secure grip.

On both my boats the inboard side of the box section was set at an angle to provide a more secure grip. Also the cabin sides had a fair amount of tumblehome, which gives more room for the hips when walking down the side of the boat. With gunnels of a decent width and with a boat that isn’t tippy, (i.e. it doesn’t rock too much when you walk down the outside of it) then I found that the box section handrails worked well on the calm waters of the canal system.

However, one time when I was in a marina I did need to walk down the side of another boat, which had box section handrails, but it also had more vertical cabin sides. The angle of the inside edge of the box section was also wrong. My fingers found it difficult to get a grip the handrail with wet paintwork. The gunnels were narrow and the boat was tippy.  I was surprised how insecure I felt using the box handrails on that boat. The design was all wrong.

 

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At some point someone will slip off the side deck so it's better to be able to dangle from a handhold, having a bar not too far inboard prevents too much strain on the forearm which could be bent at an awkward angle otherwise. I reckon a grab rail on top of a box section is ideal if it's executed neatly. 

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48 minutes ago, mross said:

My boat has box section handrails with drainage pipes that are internal and exit below the gunnels - a good compromise.

Don't they tend to get blocked with leaves and dirt? Are they steel pipes? If so how do you stop them corroding?

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Thanks for all of the input guys, I have decided as we are not getting any younger I will go with the rail that gives the better grip.  I am past style over function......no warerfall taps or brass "that needs polishing" onboard.

Phil

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5 hours ago, Tacet said:

I reckon that's about it.  The rail can and should be set further from the roof edge than in the first picture for safety and ease.  It also slightly reduces the airdraft at the edge of the coachroof - which helps in arched bridges and tunnels.  It will increase the maximum airdraft but that is usually the lesser of the problem.

The box section looks nicer, generally. 

Also offers more protection for the cabin side/ roof joint. A bridge "graunched" handrail is an easier fix than a cabin corner repair, thinking of the front corner of the cabin, a lot of leisure boats of today have very little tumble home ,& tend to float/run bow high so the front cabin corner is the first spot to contact a bridge arch or lift bridge on the pivot side.a lot of handrails on modern boats are built with either near or vertical inside sections older boats & the ones with wooden hand rails had an angled inside face sloping in from bottom to top this allowed your fingers to go further in /around the rail ,boats with a good tumble home the inside face of the rail was the same or greater angle than the cabin side

Edited by X Alan W
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6 hours ago, pearley said:

On our box section rails, the top section overhangs the inside by about 10mm to provide better grip.

Mine are like this too. I think it is the safest option.

I once saw someone slip from the gunwales on a boat with tubular rails. He broke his arm on the edge of the cabin roof.

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Sounds like you are not a traddy type, and put functionality above boat aesthetics, but when traddy boats have a handrail its done in flat bar rather than tube, or maybe bar with a very slightly rounded top. It looks really good but is probably not as nice to hold and more expensive.

..............Dave

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Our boat has both box section and hand rails and we are very happy with both. The hand rails have round supports, if you have flat ones, as in your picture, you can hurt your fingers on them, trust me I have done this on other boats. The reason for having both was because of a mistake by the boat builder, it cost them a grand for me to have hand rails retrofitted.

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Edited by F DRAYKE
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5 hours ago, cuthound said:

Mine are like this too. I think it is the safest option.

I once saw someone slip from the gunwales on a boat with tubular rails. He broke his arm on the edge of the cabin roof.

This is exactly what I understood to be the reason raised handrails were no longer in vogue. If your feet slip off the gunwale, you're probably going in anyway but you are going to retain a grip on a raised rail right up to the point your wrists break against the roof edge. You end up in the canal with either option, but now you have to get out of the water with broken wrists...

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Mindful of the last comment, as I move along the gunwale, holding the handrail, which is about 10" inboard, I always keep my elbows on the roof, so that if I slipped, my shoulders would take my weight.

 

 

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Edited by Kwacker
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