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They actually look fine to me, They do not look as if they need anything doing to them at the moment. do you know waht finish was applied originaly? whatever it was i would suggest that you use the same, I suspect that if the lining was done ten years ago, a satin finish spirit based wood varnish was probably used, Blackfriars still make a spirit based polyeurethane varnish which I can recommend.

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1 hour ago, David Mack said:

It doesn't look to me as if you need to do anything. But if you do, the oak veneer is probably very thin. So sand it with care!

 Better suggestion... don't sand it. 

Ever. 

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2 hours ago, David Mack said:

It doesn't look to me as if you need to do anything. But if you do, the oak veneer is probably very thin. So sand it with care!

The panels do not look as if they need any significant attention, and the observation about thin veneer is helpful. If, and when, you do need to apply any further coats, may I suggest that you use something like P320 Production Paper to sand, being very gentle with it, rather than standard sandpaper. Production paper is not cheap, and is what they use in the motor trade. You won't find it in DIY barns. but it can often be bought in smaller quantities on ebay.

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17 minutes ago, David Schweizer said:

The panels do not look as if they need any significant attention, and the observation about thin veneer is helpful. If, and when, you do need to apply any further coats, may I suggest that you use something like P320 Production Paper to sand, being very gentle with it, rather than standard sandpaper. Production paper is not cheap, and is what they use in the motor trade. You won't find it in DIY barns. but it can often be bought in smaller quantities on ebay.

Seconded. Fine production paper is nice stuff to use.

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I am in th process of fitting new Sapele veneered ply and i was looking at using a clear Danish oil but after research i read that depending on what adhesive is used to laminate the oil can separate the ply. 

Has anybody found that as a problem ?

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5 hours ago, W+T said:

I am in th process of fitting new Sapele veneered ply and i was looking at using a clear Danish oil but after research i read that depending on what adhesive is used to laminate the oil can separate the ply. 

Has anybody found that as a problem ?

I've never heard of that Wayne, and never experienced it despite using some kind of oil on just about every job I do. 

It sounds like BS to me - where did you read it?

Interior grade ply uses adhesives that can soften with moisture (not oil) over time. Exterior grade ply uses waterproof adhesive that won't soften although the wood can rot if permanently damp, but I've never heard of nor experienced any problems caused by oil finishes. 

Applying the oil with 0000 grade steel wool on anything other than oak will give a lovely smooth finish if you didn't already know that. 

Also, be careful to oil both sides at the same time or you can get accidental smudges on the reverse side which hardens and makes subsequent coats uneven. 

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3 hours ago, WotEver said:

I've never heard of that Wayne, and never experienced it despite using some kind of oil on just about every job I do. 

It sounds like BS to me - where did you read it?

Interior grade ply uses adhesives that can soften with moisture (not oil) over time. Exterior grade ply uses waterproof adhesive that won't soften although the wood can rot if permanently damp, but I've never heard of nor experienced any problems caused by oil finishes. 

Applying the oil with 0000 grade steel wool on anything other than oak will give a lovely smooth finish if you didn't already know that. 

Also, be careful to oil both sides at the same time or you can get accidental smudges on the reverse side which hardens and makes subsequent coats uneven. 

 

I was debating what to treat it with and looked into it on the net. I chose Danish oil as i like to use it and give a great finish, and easer to apply than varnish.

 

I just googled treating veneered plywood with some other searches, reading through some sites a few folk said it can do this and some say it only does it to certain adhesives, therefore the need to know  what adhesive the ply is laminated with.

 

I thought it strange in an oil damaging veneered plywood also, just didnt want to take the risk.

 

 

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56 minutes ago, ianali said:

It says do not use on veneer on the side of my tin of Danish oil.

Is it pure Danish Oil or is it mixed with accelerants, hardeners and other stuff like UV blockers?  I could see the volatiles mixed into some oil based finishes being detrimental, but not pure oil. 

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37 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Is it pure Danish Oil or is it mixed with accelerants, hardeners and other stuff like UV blockers?  I could see the volatiles mixed into some oil based finishes being detrimental, but not pure oil. 

I am not sure what you mean by "Pure Danish Oil", as it is not a regulated product. I am aware that some manufacturers market their oil under that name, along with "Original Danish Oil", but in reality neither actually exists, a wide range of Danish Oils are available on the market, and they can contain different oils, the best are either primarily Tung Oil, or Polymerized Linseed Oil, or a mixture of both , but many cheaper ones contain a variety of oils including poppy seed oil, rape seed oil, and even mineral oil. Theoretically the most expensive ones should be the best, but if they do not state which oils are included, i would steer away from them.

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That was one point that Tony mentions as it also depends on the oils used will delaminate the ply.

 

Just going to look at the oils i have been using on the rest of the boat.

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You can also get great results with sanding sealer followed by wax. :)

Loadsa ways of finishing wood - some a lot better than others. 

I've recently become obsessed with Le Tonkenois - it's becoming a fetish to use it on everything. I must resist...

https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/varMain.html

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57 minutes ago, WotEver said:

You can also get great results with sanding sealer followed by wax. :)

Loadsa ways of finishing wood - some a lot better than others. 

I've recently become obsessed with Le Tonkenois - it's becoming a fetish to use it on everything. I must resist...

https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/varMain.html

Yes, I'm really impressed with Le Tonk.

I tried it on  some wooden patio furniture last year, as a precursor to doing the external woodwork on DQ.

it is easy to put on, (although needs lots of coats for external woodwork), gives a good finish and looks great.

Hopefully it will meet the hype for longevity.

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1 hour ago, WotEver said:

You can also get great results with sanding sealer followed by wax. :)

Loadsa ways of finishing wood - some a lot better than others. 

I've recently become obsessed with Le Tonkenois - it's becoming a fetish to use it on everything. I must resist...

https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/varMain.html

Did you edit the first post quick as the link and mention of Le tonkinious did not show first time. just appeared now.

 

Sounds great stuff, think i mite give it a go on the strakes and interior ;)

 

nice one kida :)

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4 hours ago, ianali said:

It says do not use on veneer on the side of my tin of Danish oil.

Not sure which you're using butt for Rustin's Danish Oil, it says:

 

"It is an easy to use wipe on finish, which brings out the beauty of the timber and gives a natural, open grained, soft lustrous finish. Danish Oil is a unique formulation developed by Rustins.

Danish oil contains tung oil and other ingredients which penetrate deep into all types of timber, drying to a hard, durable and water resistant seal. The oil primes, seals and finishes all woods, including interior oak, teak mahogany, pine and all veneered surfaces. It does not leave a surface film to chip or scratch. May also be used as a primer before painting and varnishing. Excellent for use on all turned work including wooden handles of kitchen equipment and tops of storage jars."

Personally I like it because it does the job with very little mess.

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On 8/18/2017 at 17:41, WotEver said:

You can also get great results with sanding sealer followed by wax. :)

Loadsa ways of finishing wood - some a lot better than others. 

I've recently become obsessed with Le Tonkenois - it's becoming a fetish to use it on everything. I must resist...

https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/varMain.html

Go on then Tony, how good would you say it is, i am tempted now and need some soon, very soon, this weekend if i can find it local.

I want it for the strakes and interior veneer. How many coats etc do you put on at what intervals and how do you apply it  ?

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1 minute ago, W+T said:

Go on then Tony, how good would you say it is, i am tempted now and need some soon, very soon, this weekend if i can find it local.

I want it for the strakes and interior veneer. How many coats etc do you put on at what intervals and how do you apply it  ?

Okay...

You can apply it with anything - a soggy bit of rope would work! No brush marks. I use a lot of foam brushes cos they're cheap and you don't have to wash them out but you can honestly use anything.

For external work they say you need a minimum of 5 coats but I'd say 7 or more would be better. 24 hours between coats, so this is the time-consuming bit. 

Sand lightly between coats with say 240 grit or smoother just to de-nib and take the highlights down. You're trying to build depth here so don't go sanding it off. The paper will clog as the finish will still be soft.

You will see it really soaking in and feeding the wood as opposed to just sitting on top.

Now... once the depth is built it will give you a deep shine like old-fashioned varnish and highlight the grain beautifully but it won't give you a glass-like finish such as Epifanes gives. On the plus side, it won't flake or peel like Epifanes either. Over time (year or three) it goes dull and simply needs a wash and another couple of coats to bring the shine back. 

This table in the garden has been neglected for years but I gave it a scrub with sugar soap, washed it down and gave it 7 coats of Le Tonk. There's loads of deep grooves where the grain has rotted but they're gradually filling in.  I reckon another 5 coats should do it ;)

IMG_1858.JPG.918bf54f88fe9cdfa6e005a7beeb3f87.JPG

Oh, for interior work I think I'd use a cloth to wipe it on. 

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Thanks for that Tony, a lot of coats are needed i see. Mite need to get the 2.5l tub. I have had a look for a local supplier but no luck so i will order it in soon. I ant to do at least the strakes before winter sets in.

 

 

3 minutes ago, WotEver said:

You can spray it too if you really want to :)

Not for me kida. not a great deal to do. 

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