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Im going to reseal in the next few weeks. Ive already cleaned most off the crud out off it

What have people used.

Black bitumen stuff.

Armourguard pw

Jotun tankguard dw

or is there any other choices out there.

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vactan rust treatment  followed by 2 coats bitumen based (trade name Blackjack) approved for potable water systems. Blow air in to ventilate if you have to climb in tank to paint it, otherwise you get a bit light headed. Leave plenty of drying time (week or more) before sealing up.

Edited by IDS

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i used blackjack, pig of a job. I left it open for about a week to air before filling but a few days after the first fill i noticed a film on top of the water so i skimmed it off. did this before the next 2 or 3 fills before it completely went but there was no taste and i aint been ill so never mind eh

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Thanks. We don't drink from the tank purely used for showers, toilet and washing.

Blackjack sounds easier to apply than the epoxy. i will be redoing it every few years.

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I used 2 coats of Armourguard ST followed by two coats of Armourguard PW. If I could have bought smaller quantities of Jotun tankguard DW then I would have used it rather than Armourgurd as Jotun paints are the best in my opinion. However I think they only sell Tankguard DW in 20 litre containers?

I don't know how much experience you have with epoxy paints, but be aware that the preparation and application of epoxies represents a completely different prospect to slapping on a few coats of bitumen. You really have to read the spec sheet and understand the product.

Edited by blackrose

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4 minutes ago, blackrose said:

I used 2 coats of Armourguard ST followed by two coats of Armourguard PW. If I could have bought smaller quantities of Jotun tankguard DW then I would have used it rather than Armourgurd as Jotun paints are the best in my opinion. However I think they only sell Tankguard DW in 20 litre containers?

I don't know how much experience you have with epoxy paints, but be aware that the preparation and application of epoxies represents a completely different prospect to slapping on a few coats of bitumen. You really have to read the spec sheet and understand the product.

Ive had no experience in using epoxy paints, think jotun is big tins everywhere i looked its £300+ fora a tin.

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38 minutes ago, rustydiver said:

Ive had no experience in using epoxy paints, think jotun is big tins everywhere i looked its £300+ fora a tin.

Yes, so unless you can find someone else who's doing the job at the same time you might have to use a different product.

If you want to go down the epoxy route (I think it's probably Armourguard if you can't buy Jotun), you'll need to get the tank back to metal and prime with a couple of coats of Armourguard ST first. Just make sure you read the instructions and understand things like pot life, curing times and minimum/maximum overcoating times. The Armourgurd paints are mixed in ratios by weight rather than volume so you will need small kitchen type scales, disposable mixing pots, etc. 

Edited by blackrose

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1 hour ago, blackrose said:

If you want to go down the epoxy route (I think it's probably Armourguard if you can't buy Jotun), you'll need to get the tank back to metal

Not true - you can apply Armourguard to any solid substrate. I brushed/scraped the loose rust then Vactan + Armourguard. That was 3 years ago and still looks and performs as good as the day it was treated.

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Armourguard is sold as a "surface tolerant" epoxy primer and can go over existing paint if its well adhered, but bare metal is preferred, and shot blasted is best of all. I reckon its best to get very close to bare shiny metal before applying Armourguard, but a bit of old paint residue or even rust in any pits is probably ok. Just done my gas bottle locker last week with this approach. Trouble is if you compromise too much and have to redo it then removing the epoxy is going to be tedious and unpleasant.

Armourguard ST, Bondaprimer, Craftmaster varnish and Craftmaster raddle are my favourite paints :D

Can mix very small quantities of Armourguard using "drug dealer"electronic scales that are available cheaply on eBay.

............Dave

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54 minutes ago, Señor Chris said:

Not true - you can apply Armourguard to any solid substrate. I brushed/scraped the loose rust then Vactan + Armourguard. That was 3 years ago and still looks and performs as good as the day it was treated.

Armourguard PW won't stick to any substrate as well as it sticks to the recommended substrate. For example it won't stick to bitumen as well as it sticks to Armourguard ST, the recommended epoxy steel primer. 

Like any other epoxy paint product, you can paint it over anything you want and it will stick, but there is no substitute for good preparation and the entire paint system will only be as good as it's weakest link - in your case that's the Vactan.

2 minutes ago, dmr said:

Armourguard is sold as a "surface tolerant" epoxy primer and can go over existing paint if its well adhered, but bare metal is preferred, and shot blasted is best of all.

Precisely.

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20 minutes ago, blackrose said:

the entire paint system will only be as good as it's weakest link - in your case that's the Vactan.

Which so far has proven to be very good indeed. Personally, I couldn't justify the considerable extra effort of taking a cramped internal space like a water tank back to bare steel when a much easier alternative is known to be so robust and effective.

 

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So one final question. 

If I was to use the blackjack stuff and say after 2 years I wanted to check to see if all was ok but some patches were flaking do I need to remove all off it or just the flaking bit to recover it as one new coat. 

Edited by rustydiver

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11 minutes ago, matty40s said:

I answered you on the other thread.:)

:blush:

thank you. I found it again thought I posted a question asking that yesterday. I'm starting to question my sanity. 

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I went down the blackjack route. Done 4 coats with a roller. Sunday when I go back it would have been drying for a week. So should be dry. The cover had been off. 

I'm going to blast clean with a hose and a new mop. Fill leave soaking for the week drain and refill. 

Would it be worth sterilising it on the second week fill and leave for a few days?

Edited by rustydiver

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