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Door desperation


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1 minute ago, Chewbacka said:

That's basically what I did, though the hatch was held on to the runners by a couple of m4 bolts which I felt were not strong enough so bolted a couple of brackets to the sliding hatch which were just under the hatch runners, so even if you removed/broke the fixing bolts, the hatch will not hinge up and over.

Ahh, on mine the design of the hatch had a full length piece of angle iron which lipped under the slide so lifting off wasn't possible. 

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10 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Ahh, on mine the design of the hatch had a full length piece of angle iron which lipped under the slide so lifting off wasn't possible. 

The 'clever' designer had gone for an easy maintenance design rather than security.  Undo 4 bolts and the whole hatch lifts off.  Yours sounds much more sensible.

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13 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

The 'clever' designer had gone for an easy maintenance design rather than security.  Undo 4 bolts and the whole hatch lifts off.  Yours sounds much more sensible.

Well yes, but mine was a pig to maintain :lol:

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16 hours ago, Peppers said:

This is great stuff - WBP ply bought and cut to size today (I couldn't find Marine Ply without waiting days for it).

 

Our next challenge is the locks - we were thinking a yale (at the top into the roof hatch) and bolts, but considered an extra mortice lock through the centre for added security...any thoughts on the ideal lock set up

The choice of locks will be determined to a degree by which way your doors open, if outwards your options are limited. If they do open outwards, a lock sold under the name lince is very useful, I have one fitted in conjunction with a pair of Enfield garage door locks top and bottom of the other door. All are lockable from inside and out.

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Our doors are going quite well, thanks for all the advice so far. Our doors do open outwards @BWM and it is a right pain! Enfield garage door locks are a good idea though, thanks for that.

We've just hit a bit of a hurdle in that we can't quite work out the roof hatch...How do we attach the ply to this? Surely glue won't be enough, but where would screws go?

My other half has been walking round trying to look at how others in the marina have done their hatches, but everyones is so different we just can't get a decent enough understanding of it. He has sent me a picture of our hatch, as it has a sort of lip on it that seems to rest on top of the doors when they're all closed, so it can always just slide back and forth, rather than the lift up sort (sorry for my lack of appropriate terminology!!!)

Anyone got any roof hatch inspiration?

image1.png

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14 minutes ago, Peppers said:

We've just hit a bit of a hurdle in that we can't quite work out the roof hatch...How do we attach the ply to this? Surely glue won't be enough, but where would screws go?

 

I cant really see very well, are you sure you have enough clearance for ply on the inside of the hatch? 

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I used polyurethane adhesive from toolstation - get it on your hands and wipe off immediately otherwise you have to wait for it to wear off  - but I also put 4 coach bolts through the hatch - one in each corner.  Being slightly domed and without any slots or sockets they look (I think) just fine.  Probably not actually needed, as the adhesive is strong.

Adhesive I used was https://www.toolstation.com/search?searchstr=69243 60981 77137

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We do have the clearance - we can fit an 18mm sheet in there with some space left, it's probably about 20mm in total 

I'm just on the phone to the other half who is worrying about it just being glue because it's quite a big block of wood, so coach bolts could be a half decent solution to supplement the adhesive / keep him quiet...

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9 minutes ago, Peppers said:

We do have the clearance - we can fit an 18mm sheet in there with some space left, it's probably about 20mm in total 

I'm just on the phone to the other half who is worrying about it just being glue because it's quite a big block of wood, so coach bolts could be a half decent solution to supplement the adhesive / keep him quiet...

Ah ok, wasn't sure, ours has no clearance for any ply when opening due to a welded surround on the roof. 

Edited by rusty69
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Just now, rusty69 said:

Ah ok, wasn't sure, ours has no clearance for any ply when opening due to a welded surround on the roof. 

It's the black on black on black photo as well...not the easiest! I'm not sure of the black paint (grrr) but hey ho.

11 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

I also put 4 coach bolts through the hatch - one in each corner.  Being slightly domed and without any slots or sockets they look (I think) just fine.  

I'm trying to work out the coach bolt scenario also - because does the bolt come through your ply, and so essentially down into your ceiling? I'm trying to think of a solution like a coach bolt but that would go into the ply, maybe from the front and back of the hatch - almost like a nail, but through wood and steel...I don't really want to see it from the inside, but I don't want anyone being able to fiddle with it from the outside either...

It's like a riddle.

9 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

Looking at you photos, the spray foam looks a bit high/thick in a few places, if you need to trim it flush the best tool to use is a cheap bread knife with a broad but thin blade.

 

You're right...these are the bits we lost our patience with and will come back to :( 

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You could use a threaded insert nut.  This screws into the ply and you can then turn the coach bolt by hand with a bit of thread lock, or if you want it tight then you could use a stainless socket screw.  As they are about 13mm deep, you can drill a blind hole from above into the ply and then screw these in.  Invisible from inside the boat.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/insert-nuts-type-d-m6-x-13mm-50-pack/59937

http://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-button-head-socket-screws-a2-stainless-steel-m6-x-12mm-50-pack/1361t

Added - changed link for screw, these are a better length

Edited by Chewbacka
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2 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

You could use a threaded insert nut.  This screws into the ply and you can then turn the coach bolt by hand with a bit of thread lock, or if you want it tight then you could use a stainless socket screw.  As they are about 13mm deep, you can drill a blind hole from above into the ply and then screw these in.  Invisible from inside the boat.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/insert-nuts-type-d-m6-x-13mm-50-pack/59937

Ah, ok...invisible from the inside - I like that a lot! so this threading insert nut + coach bolt with thread lock on it?

I'll pass this on to the other half so he can enjoy another trip to screwfix in the morning

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1 hour ago, Peppers said:

Ah, ok...invisible from the inside - I like that a lot! so this threading insert nut + coach bolt with thread lock on it?

I'll pass this on to the other half so he can enjoy another trip to screwfix in the morning

Yep, and if you don't like the coach screw as it will not be very tight then a socket head screw with a bit of filler if you want to hide the socket would probably be better.

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