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Dometic RM5310 fridge problem


blackrose

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1 hour ago, blackrose said:

Yes I've taken the gas inlet off the brass valve but couldn't see a filter.

Do you know where I could get a generic thermocouple of the type you mention? Would it need to be the same spec or rating as the Dometic one?

Thanks

Generic thermocouples can be bought from any plumbers merchants. Or even B&Q:

http://www.diy.com/departments/universal-thermocouple/178359_BQ.prd

1 hour ago, blackrose said:

The mag valve comes as part of the gas valve...

Which suggests that it's not part of the thermostat, or have I misunderstood?

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1 hour ago, WotEver said:

Generic thermocouples can be bought from any plumbers merchants. Or even B&Q:

http://www.diy.com/departments/universal-thermocouple/178359_BQ.prd

Which suggests that it's not part of the thermostat, or have I misunderstood?

But I don't think any generic thermocouple would fit, would it? That one from B&Q doesn't look like the Dometic one.

That's correct the magnet has to be bought separately.

Edited by blackrose
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1 hour ago, blackrose said:

But I don't think any generic thermocouple would fit, would it? That one from B&Q doesn't look like the Dometic one.

That's difficult to say. You'd have to unscrew the end at the stat to see really. The flame end doesn't matter as long as it can be secured somehow. 

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1 hour ago, WotEver said:

That's difficult to say. You'd have to unscrew the end at the stat to see really. The flame end doesn't matter as long as it can be secured somehow. 

According to Motorhome Tech a generic thermocouple won't fit so I've gone ahead and ordered the Dometic parts. He told me he couldn't sell me the parts any cheaper than Leisure Sales Direct so I know he's genuine.

The thermocouple comes with a new burner and the magnet isn't sold separately, so I'll be replacing the valve too. If that lot doesn't work then I give up! They're out of stock at the moment so I'll report back in a few weeks.

Thanks for everyone's help.

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When you have fitted the new parts and solved the problem, will you strip down the old unit to see how it comes apart and what the problem was?  I don't think I could resist that and you will gain some useful information plus a spare if you can fix it.  Good luck.

Phil

  • Greenie 1
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11 minutes ago, philjw said:

When you have fitted the new parts and solved the problem, will you strip down the old unit to see how it comes apart and what the problem was?  I don't think I could resist that and you will gain some useful information plus a spare if you can fix it.  Good luck.

Phil

+1

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1 hour ago, philjw said:

When you have fitted the new parts and solved the problem, will you strip down the old unit to see how it comes apart and what the problem was?  I don't think I could resist that and you will gain some useful information plus a spare if you can fix it.  Good luck.

Phil

I'm planning on fitting one part at a time and testing the fridge to see what the problem is. If I find a part is faulty I'll have a look to see if there's an obvious problem that I can fix, but I don't plan on keeping old parts as spares unless I can find what the problem was. 

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  • 1 year later...

Could someone help me. I have a electrolux rm6291l and when I put it on gas it lights up but the igniter keeps clicking and the light keeps flashing. But there is a flame and fridge works fine... need help as its doing my head in lol

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On 19/05/2019 at 19:19, Sie1990 said:

Could someone help me. I have a electrolux rm6291l and when I put it on gas it lights up but the igniter keeps clicking and the light keeps flashing. But there is a flame and fridge works fine... need help as its doing my head in lol

Not very sure about the exact design but it sounds as if the igniter box is not recognising a falme is present. I had this on am Alde gas boiler and a new igniter box sorted in.  The boxes sense the reduction in conductivity when the spark gap is in the flame.

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1 hour ago, bizzard said:

It might be possible to put a switch in the 12v wire to the igniter and switch it off once alight. Unless it uses its own battery fot this.

 

Good idea as long as the OP can see the flame and the flame failure device is still working. I think a push button switch positioned so the OP can see the flame while operating it would be best.

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On 21/05/2019 at 16:33, Tony Brooks said:

 

Good idea as long as the OP can see the flame and the flame failure device is still working. I think a push button switch positioned so the OP can see the flame while operating it would be best.

 

Occasionally I encounter a gas appliance where the automatic igniter is the ONLY flame monitoring device. If the flame blows out, the spark starts. Best to make sure the fridge isn't one of this type before putting a manual switch in the power line.

 

In addition, it is an offence under the GSIUR to alter the design of a CE-Marked appliance in such a way as to change the specification from that of the sample appliance submitted by the manufacturer for CE testing. Or something along those lines. 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Occasionally I encounter a gas appliance where the automatic igniter is the ONLY flame monitoring device. If the flame blows out, the spark starts. Best to make sure the fridge isn't one of this type before putting a manual switch in the power line.

 

In addition, it is an offence under the GSIUR to alter the design of a CE-Marked appliance in such a way as to change the specification from that of the sample appliance submitted by the manufacturer for CE testing. Or something along those lines. 

 

 

 

 

Personally I would put such a switch in the 12V supply so the fridge would be  exactly as submitted for CE testing apart from the faulty igniter. Of course if the flame failure is the igniter circuit it would be irresponsible and downright dangerous to do it. However if teh flame failure and igniter were linked I can't see the flame staying alight with the igniter clicking but yo'e' the gas expert.

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