Engine oil help.

[Kapt. Kipper.]

I am looking for some 10w30 api CC engine oil. Any one know a source, or recommend an alternative. Cheers

[rusty69]

Any good?:-

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MILLERS-SUPERFLEET-SD-10W30-5-L-LITRE-FOUR-4-STROKE-ENGINE-OIL-API-CC-SE-5447GB-/262375065143

[Kapt. Kipper.]

Could be the baby. Do you know what the suffix SE is. The only reason I ask is the engine has always run on 10w30 api CC with no suffix SE. Is this the modern version of CC.

[sans allumette]

22 minutes ago, Kapt. Kipper. said:

Do you know what the suffix SE is

I think it means 'obolete'. No, really. See this link to the American Petroleum Institute's site (API), where it explains obsolete as Not suitable for use in most diesel-powered engines built after 1990.:

http://www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-documents/oil-categories#tab_diesel-c-categories

[Giant]

The SE spec refers to its use for petrol engines, so separate from the CC spec for diesel. See this page which lists the S and C series categories:

http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php

[Kapt. Kipper.]

I've seen that Webb site and it only confused the matter. The engine is a yanmar barrus shire built circ 2000. The handbook states use oil 10w30 with API CC (DO NOT USE ANY OIL ABOVE CC ...IE CD,CF). 

[Kapt. Kipper.]

Thanks Giant I've looked at this and it doesn't give an alternative/modern spec for CC grades. Does any body know the modern spec ?.

[rusty69]

Ok, how about this one (although it says 05 onwards) 

 

 

http://wmc-online.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d30_Consumables_01.html

 

 

ETA 8th one down.

Edited June 30, 2017 by rusty69

[Kapt. Kipper.]

Thanks Rusty that appears looking at it, is the stuff already running through' its veins. Think you've found it.

[rusty69]

6 minutes ago, Kapt. Kipper. said:

Thanks Rusty that appears looking at it, is the stuff already running through' its veins. Think you've found it.

Ouch, not cheap though...... If they have any. 

[Kapt. Kipper.]

Steady hand when pouring....

[mross]

I suggest a funnel!  If there's no room you can use a screwdriver to guide the oil into the crankcase by pouring the oil around the outside of the steel part.  Oil is very good at following the shaft, even when angled.  I find it best to hold the shaft across the top of the spout.  No sniggering in the back, please!

[alan_fincher]

1 hour ago, Kapt. Kipper. said:

Thanks Rusty that appears looking at it, is the stuff already running through' its veins. Think you've found it.

That Shire specific oil looks silly expensive.

Millers oils are, I believe, very well respected, and the one already listed in this thread is considerably cheaper for exactly the same viscosity and API spec.

I'm not sure I'd pay £9 extra just to have it say Shire on the container!

[Giant]

2 hours ago, Kapt. Kipper. said:

Thanks Giant I've looked at this and it doesn't give an alternative/modern spec for CC grades. Does any body know the modern spec ?.

There isn't an "alternative modern/spec for CC grades". You just carry on buying CC grade. There are plenty of suppliers still offering it. We get ours from Morris Lubricants.

[mross]

Older engines can be damaged by running higher spec oils.  I know you would expect oils to get better and better but that's only true with engines that have developed as well.  

[Kapt. Kipper.]

Thanks for the help everybody, I now have a better understanding of what I'm after.

[FadeToScarlet]

14 hours ago, rusty69 said:

Ok, how about this one (although it says 05 onwards) 

 

 

http://wmc-online.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d30_Consumables_01.html

That's a straight 30 oil, a monograde, rather than the multigrade 10w/30 which is thinner when it is cold for easy starting and then thickens as it warms up.

[rusty69]

2 minutes ago, FadeToScarlet said:

That's a straight 30 oil, a monograde, rather than the multigrade 10w/30 which is thinner when it is cold for easy starting and then thickens as it warms up.

Was referring to 8th one down, sorry for any confusion 

[Neil Smith]

The confusing thing is if you look at the spec oil for the yanmar base engine that the shire is based on it dose not specify cc grade oil so can only think barrus want you to buy oil from them, a bit like the filters etc.

Neil

[Tony Brooks]

1 hour ago, FadeToScarlet said:

That's a straight 30 oil, a monograde, rather than the multigrade 10w/30 which is thinner when it is cold for easy starting and then thickens as it warms up.

Not quiet right but common believed. A multigrade oil still thins as it warms up but nowhere near as fast as a monograde so whne you get to running temperature its thinner but only as thin as a hot 30 grade oil.

 

13 minutes ago, Neil Smith said:

The confusing thing is if you look at the spec oil for the yanmar base engine that the shire is based on it dose not specify cc grade oil so can only think barrus want you to buy oil from them, a bit like the filters etc.

Neil

It may be because inland boaters continually abuse their engines by running them on very light loads so the area of the combustion chamber never gets as hot as its design specification. This can cook modern oil additives into a "varnish" rather than burning it to ash. This causes bore glazing.

However so far an a well run in a Bukh DV36 using API CE or CF oil seems to be causing no such problem.

[Machpoint005]

The CC-CE-CF oil debate comes third in the argument schedule, after bogs and baseplate blacking.

[Kapt. Kipper.]

Hi guys....decision made I've gone for the Millers superfleet, read up and it ticks the boxes thank you one and all.

[mross]

Thanks for letting us know ☺️