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Snapped Idle Damper screw on Injector Pump


Domstone86

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Hey all. I don't normally start my first post on forums asking for help, but I'm at the point where I realise there's not many options left, so maybe somebody can point me in the right direction. With nothing obviously available online, it seems some more serious digging around may need to be done, and this is something I'm quite new to!

 

Since buying my new boat, there's been the odd issue with certain parts of the engine setup. One of these required a bleed of the system. As the union nuts for the high pressure injector pipes are fused on solid, the next highest bleed location was the not recommended idle damper screw, but my only other option without some difficult work ahead of me. I barely touched it with the spanner and the top of the hex nut just fell off. I spent hours searching for it, thinking it was an entire screw I was looking for, only to be informed it was snapped (confirmed by finding it outside of the bilge a week later!!)

I believe I have 2 options. The first is to find a complete replacement for the idle damper screw bits, for which I can find hardly any reference to online, let alone a working part. My second option would maybe to drill out the existing snapped bit, and replace with a similarly sized nut.

Both options sound daunting to me, but I believe they are maybe realistic options. I've included a picture of the damper (without the top bit as I found it when I was doing the vacuuming lol), and the fuel injection pump. (DPA3246857)

Oh yes, to avoid confusion, the thread size in the injector pump is 8mm. I'm aware there are different sizes as we have got the wrong one for a replacement from the engine in the workshop!

I feel a bit stupid for all this, but it's typical of my handwork, I'm more of an electricity man than a greasy man! :D so thank you in advance!

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I don't understand. Are the pictures of a different pump? They seem to show a threaded hole without a sheared off bit and a good bolt. Getting the old bit out is the tricky part. Screw extractor is option 1- drill hole, wind it in, out it comes. Maybe. Left hand thread tap, easily obtainable, much the same thing. Drill small hole near edge, tap it round with a chisel, out it comes.  Maybe. I have had some success with very small drill, drill a line of dimples, chisel out a trench, then use a screwdriver to undo it.  Its a sod of a thing to do though. Good luck.

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I think it looks like a water cooled engine, but from the picture I don't recognise it.

I'm surprised it's snapped, it doesn't look it.

I'd have thought there would have been a bit broken off the male, but it looks clean, like wise the inside of the female.  You can clearly see the thread on both parts.

So it doesn't look snapped short, nor does the thread look stripped on either part, nor do we know the engine.

 

Puzzled.

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It is the damper screw from a BMC but it looks as if its the bleed screw in the middle that has snapped.

I am totally against people using that bleed screw and for most of the time it is unnecessary. Use the bleed screw on the side of the cylindrical part of the pump body. One side there will be a hexagon blanking plug and on the other a fancy domed hexagon with a bleed screw in it.

If the broken screw is not leaking just put the damper back in and in the future use the screw described above.

There is no reason not to try drilling the broken screw out but I would try to get hold of a left hand drill bit and you may well find the drilling extracts the screw but the danger of damaging the damper screw makes me advise not to try to remove it.

You seem to be confusing two virtually independent but linked fuel systems. The low pressure one that you have been bleeding and which ALWAYS has to be air free before bleeding the high pressure side. If it is not air free you would be unlikely to successfully bleed the air ut via the injector unions.

Do not try loosening the injector pipe unions where they attach to the the adaptors in the pump. Bleed them from the injector end. If they really are as tight as you suggest it sounds as if the olives have been flattened and rather than sort it out a "get a longer spanner" merchant has just wound them up tight. Likewise the bleed screw that he had probably partially sheered.

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Thank you for all the responses! I probably wasn't very clear on a few things. The part that has sheared off has sheared off inside the middle of the bolt, like Tony had said, which I have taken off the pump in an attempt to replace it. I ended up getting the thread out, inspiration from the screw extractor idea. It turns out that the nut was only loosely screwed in the middle and a 0.5mm drill bit was enough to both drill a small hole which budged it, and in reverse took it out.

 

I then just replaced the 2mm bleed screw with one from a similar part and hey presto, it's all sorted!

Shame I think I'm going to have to bleed the high pressure pipe to bleed this time, and it doesn't look like it's been taken off in many years, rusty welfare!

I'll try some acetone and ATF mix on it for a while and see what other options there are to crack them free.

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What high pressure pipe (note pipe singular). There are just four high pressure pipes more usually known as injector pipes.

There are tow low pressure pipes on the injector pump (about 4 to 6 PSI). The feed pipe from filter to injector pump and the return from the injector pump close to the engine and the filter.

If you are talking about the injector pipe unions (the larger of the two on the injector) I think that you could even put a pair of stilsons on them if they are to tight for ordinary spanners.

Anyway. bleed the low pressure side as i explained above and if you clear any air that has got in you should be OK

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