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Transom hole patching and outboard bracket


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With luck our project should be out of the water soon, and so we'll need to make the tough decision which has been bouncing around for a bit.

It has a z-drive but no engine.

One of the options is to take the z-drive out and patch up the hole(s). Then fit a heavy duty outboard bracket.

Hoping some knowledgeable folks might have had some experience of doing this and may offer some thoughts.

 

For the holes. It is GRP hull. Was thinking either gauze or ply and then fibre-glass.
 

For the bracket, was thinking of a large sheet of ply on the inside of the back of the boat also fibre-glassed. Then a backing plate.

Possibly some additional timber from where the existing engine mounts are to tie in also.

Would just be for river and canal use, so thinking something between 8HP and 15 HP would managed (it is 25ft).

A concern would be the cabling for the outboard though, guess that may need a sizeable new hole making.

 

Thanks in advance

 

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As a cruiser fan myself I would go with the on-board engine due to the benefits over an outboard. Heating/charging for batterys easier.

 

If you do go outboard then it's an easy fix to block to hole up. But if you can do away with ply and use GRP only. Just invade it does get wet. It's only a small hole so easy enough to fill. 

Taper inner and outer edges back and then laminate up the whole to give a real good bond. I am at work so don't have time to fully detail what I would do. Can do later if you need.

 

You can use epoxy to laminate with but I have never found the need to on my projects and used poly instead. If it's done well it will be fine for strength

a few holes will need be drilled for the outboard but nothing major. And as you say ply inner for the outboard bracket. Glasses in with atleast 3-4 650grm laminations. 

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11 hours ago, W+T said:

As a cruiser fan myself I would go with the on-board engine due to the benefits over an outboard. Heating/charging for batterys easier.

 

If you do go outboard then it's an easy fix to block to hole up. But if you can do away with ply and use GRP only. Just invade it does get wet. It's only a small hole so easy enough to fill. 

Taper inner and outer edges back and then laminate up the whole to give a real good bond. I am at work so don't have time to fully detail what I would do. Can do later if you need.

 

You can use epoxy to laminate with but I have never found the need to on my projects and used poly instead. If it's done well it will be fine for strength

a few holes will need be drilled for the outboard but nothing major. And as you say ply inner for the outboard bracket. Glasses in with atleast 3-4 650grm laminations. 

Thanks W, was hoping you may be around. We have caught up/followed your wee one and plant pot threads with much interest. Very inspiring. We are also canopy-less so following that also!

Yes aware of the inboard benefits you mention, and if the Z-drive seems okay then that might be the most cost effective option....if...it all just worked. Seems plenty of challenges with lining it all up etc. The other factor is the previous owners had been adding some extra covered area, hence reducing the open area at the rear, there is very little left before the existing engine boxing. 

 

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15 minutes ago, M-S-D said:

Yeah rusty, had seen that one - looking for something a little more sedate!

Personally  I would use epoxy every time. Although more expensive than polyester resin, far superior, and in a small area like that won't cost too much. 

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On 6/1/2017 at 22:53, rusty69 said:

 

 

Not keen on that myself, just how it sticks on the back end so much. Good to save deck space though.  

 

 

16 hours ago, M-S-D said:

Thanks W, was hoping you may be around. We have caught up/followed your wee one and plant pot threads with much interest. Very inspiring. We are also canopy-less so following that also!

Yes aware of the inboard benefits you mention, and if the Z-drive seems okay then that might be the most cost effective option....if...it all just worked. Seems plenty of challenges with lining it all up etc. The other factor is the previous owners had been adding some extra covered area, hence reducing the open area at the rear, there is very little left before the existing engine boxing. 

 

Sounds like either way you go it will be a lot of work. Not seen the set up but lining it all up should be easy enough. I have done engine swaps in a  few cars on 4x4`s with separate T box`s and found aslong as the UJ`s are with in there limits it is easy.

 

Will be a little different with an inboard i should think. a good block and tackle and gantry or similar will make it easy to line and set it all up.

 

Get some pics up if you can ;) 

 

Where are you with the boat, if i can and you need help i would be happy to pop round ;)

 

Give me a break form mine.

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, W+T said:

Not keen on that myself, just how it sticks on the back end so much. Good to save deck space though.  

It is rather ugly and probably requires extra transom strengthening/support. 

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On 2017-6-2 at 20:05, rusty69 said:

Personally  I would use epoxy every time. Although more expensive than polyester resin, far superior, and in a small area like that won't cost too much. 

Thanks, will look into this.

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On 2017-6-3 at 13:08, W+T said:

 

Not keen on that myself, just how it sticks on the back end so much. Good to save deck space though.  

 

 

Sounds like either way you go it will be a lot of work. Not seen the set up but lining it all up should be easy enough. I have done engine swaps in a  few cars on 4x4`s with separate T box`s and found aslong as the UJ`s are with in there limits it is easy.

 

Will be a little different with an inboard i should think. a good block and tackle and gantry or similar will make it easy to line and set it all up.

 

Get some pics up if you can ;) 

 

Where are you with the boat, if i can and you need help i would be happy to pop round ;)

 

Give me a break form mine.

 

 

 

Thanks for the offer but a long way from you unfortunately. Currently in East Cambridgeshire and hopefully soon moving to between Oxford and Swindon.

Pics are not easy to see. It looks as though the engine driveshaft was cut off in order to remove the engine. We have not been able to locate the handle to raise the z-drive either. Yet to clear out this area.

Have not been great at taking pics of the boat, will aim to when next over. Have been doing what we can : putting floor down, fitting wall and doors to the covered cabin, some framing for toilet, seating, that sort of thing. Some fibre on the bilge area, plus the first coat of fibre on the additional roof.

WP_20170515_20_06_19_Pro.jpg

WP_20170515_20_06_01_Pro.jpg

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On 6/5/2017 at 16:32, M-S-D said:

Thanks for the offer but a long way from you unfortunately. Currently in East Cambridgeshire and hopefully soon moving to between Oxford and Swindon.

Pics are not easy to see. It looks as though the engine driveshaft was cut off in order to remove the engine. We have not been able to locate the handle to raise the z-drive either. Yet to clear out this area.

Have not been great at taking pics of the boat, will aim to when next over. Have been doing what we can : putting floor down, fitting wall and doors to the covered cabin, some framing for toilet, seating, that sort of thing. Some fibre on the bilge area, plus the first coat of fibre on the additional roof.

WP_20170515_20_06_19_Pro.jpg

WP_20170515_20_06_01_Pro.jpg

 

Give a good clean out like you say and go from there. If the leg is not to bad could be worth setting an inboard back up, Choice of any enigone then as you can get a prop made up cheap. I have had a few made up if you supply the Flanges/UJ from here  The Propshaft Clinic

http://www.theconstructionindex.co.uk/company/Propshaft-Clinic-Limited/22865

Last one i got made up for a 4x4 was £45 delivered.

Engine beds will be easy if you sort a welder out or go timber and laminate in place.

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29 minutes ago, M-S-D said:

Boat is now on hard standing. A new issue to ponder though. It has a couple of "fins". Not sure how well it comes out but crack/gaps near the top. Closed back up when placed down.

 

WP_20170612_13_42_20_Pro.jpg

 

 

Oooo

Are they timber ? 

Not a difficult job if you have full access internally to replace the whole keel/s if they are in a bad way.

 

Have a dig about the cracked area and see whats what. I would geuss if it has been sat in the water all time then a lot of water will have soaked in.not good. 

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Found a thread on here - "dawncraft 25 advice needed"

Suggests they are oak. 

Crane guy wondered if it had happened while on the trailer, but as you say it may have already been cracked and been soaking through. He mentioned epoxying the bolt holes might be crude option. 

We had been fitting the inside (more because we needed to keep travelling to check on it and it was something to do while there.) but it can all come out if it has to. I don't recall seeing any bolts though.

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