Jump to content

Would this product be ok for Blacking


Featured Posts

I am asking your advice regarding this product for blacking the hull. I have used this product before for bunding concrete and steel water tanks and bonds and have never had any water egress ever. It is a liquid rubber asphalt product that forms a flexible watertight membrane.

It is quite expensive but has some advantages. the first advantage is you can apply two coats within two hours, so you could  black your boat in a day and get it back in the water in the same day. If you do manage to put a big scratch in it all you need to do is rub the area down locally apply some primer and just touch the area up. 

The disadvantage of this product is when you have applied it to your hull you will never be able to get it off, even by grit blasting,  when applied it is nearly impossible to remove it from the surface.

Your honest advice would be most welcome. please find the link below regarding the product information sheet.

Many thanks

 http://cimindustries.com/products/cim-product/cim-1000/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nasty stuff. You would need full PPE for this, and hopefully be working in a well ventilated dock or outside.

Health hazards

Classification according to Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 as amended

Acute toxicity oral Category 4 H302 - Harmful if swallowed.

Acute toxicity, inhalation Category 4 H332 - Harmful if inhaled.

Skin corrosion/irritation Category 2 H315 - Causes skin irritation.

Serious eye damage/eye irritation  cATEGORY 2 H319 - Causes serious eye irritation.

 Respiratory sensitisation Category 2 H334 - May cause allergy or asthma symptoms or breathing difficulties if inhaled

Skin sensitisation Category 1 H317 - May cause an allergic skin reaction.

Carcinogenicity Category 2 H351 - Suspected of causing cancer.

Specific target organ toxicity - single exposure Category 3 H335 - May cause respiratory irritation.

                                               repeated exposure Category 2 respiratory tract irritation exposure H373 - May cause damage to organs through prolonged or repeated exposure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remember it is an American product !!!! you must know how much stuff they print on the labels, they even tell you that a microwave is not suitable for drying pets or live animals. Have used this stuff with the recommended PPE and forced air ventilation with no problem. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's your boat.  If there isn't any experience on it from anyone else using it as blacking, do you want to experiment with it knowing that if you are wrong and it isn't suitable you have pitting going through the hull behind a coating you can't easily remove? How about trying it for a couple of years on say the rudder alone. If the rudder rots away at least it isn't too expensive to replace. The rudder doesn't get as muc h abrasion damage as some parts of the hull though.

Jen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, I Spartacus said:

Remember it is an American product !!!! you must know how much stuff they print on the labels, they even tell you that a microwave is not suitable for drying pets or live animals. Have used this stuff with the recommended PPE and forced air ventilation with no problem. 

ok, if you have used it before, would it stand a 20 plus ton weight bashing against an immovable stone object, or a galvanised steel post bent backwards scraping along it with said 20t weigt at 3mph ......

we have no idea, try it, and come back to us please.

Edited by matty40s
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, matty40s said:

ok, if you have used it before, would it stand a 20 plus ton weight bashing against an immovable stone object, or a galvanised steel post bent backwards scraping along it with said 20t weigt at 3mph ......

we have no idea, try it, and come back to use.

That's the problem isn't it? I worked with urethane coatings most of my life. They are brilliant for many applications, very tough and difficult to cut or abrade. But they will cut or abrade and then start to debond. Then the steel beneath will begin to rust and it will be virtually impossible to see until it's to late.     Ian .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, ianali said:

That's the problem isn't it? I worked with urethane coatings most of my life. They are brilliant for many applications, very tough and difficult to cut or abrade. But they will cut or abrade and then start to debond. Then the steel beneath will begin to rust and it will be virtually impossible to see until it's to late.     Ian .

Wouldn't the same apply to two-pack coatings?

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 19/04/2017 at 20:23, I Spartacus said:

I am asking your advice regarding this product for blacking the hull. I have used this product before for bunding concrete and steel water tanks and bonds and have never had any water egress ever. It is a liquid rubber asphalt product that forms a flexible watertight membrane.

It is quite expensive but has some advantages. the first advantage is you can apply two coats within two hours, so you could  black your boat in a day and get it back in the water in the same day. If you do manage to put a big scratch in it all you need to do is rub the area down locally apply some primer and just touch the area up. 

The disadvantage of this product is when you have applied it to your hull you will never be able to get it off, even by grit blasting,  when applied it is nearly impossible to remove it from the surface.

Your honest advice would be most welcome. please find the link below regarding the product information sheet.

Many thanks

 http://cimindustries.com/products/cim-product/cim-1000/

 

What's the price, or is this a freebie left over from a job?

My main concern this is primarily designed for roofs rather than hulls but still specifies coatings on steel under water so shouldn't be too bad except it recommends the use of a bonding agent on steel. You would still need to shot blast the hull down to bare metal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank's for the replies everyone. I think I will just do a sample bit to start with. We have used on large plantroom floors and it traffics very well with machinery and plant being dragged across it . As for the cost it is expensive last time I checked it was £250 a tub I expect that the price has gone up now due the the pound loosing value against the   $. when applied it has a gloss to it, but after a few weeks it becomes a nice matt black colour. Having read the earlier posts regarding stray dc voltage and  galvanic corrosion I was thinking if would be of any help if coated in rubber.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.