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Mikexx

Sealing windows while refitting

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1 hour ago, Mikexx said:

Thanks for all the info. What type of silicone did you use?

 

I have had a look but can not find which type/make it was as it is not in my Ebay purchase list as i got it from the local PVCU/window fitters come suppliers, they do loads of type of sealant and this is used for window fitters a lot that work with aluminium.  It is not a silicone but a sealant adhesive. 

As long as it is water proof and UV resistant it will be fine. Even Sikalfex 291i will be fine just add the thin bead along the outer edge and as Alan says in the 2nd post says smooth it in once fitted.

This is just second measure along with the neoprene tape. 

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Not sure if this is similar to anything already suggested but I've just replaced all the windows on my nb and sealed them with butyl glazing tape, easy to use and looks very like what was originally used by the boat builder. 

Re silicon, for reasons best known to them they also ran a bead of silicon around the window edge, this has subsequent caused rusting after 6 years under the silicon possibly due to trapped acetic acid during the cure.

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1 hour ago, arcsyst said:

Not sure if this is similar to anything already suggested but I've just replaced all the windows on my nb and sealed them with butyl glazing tape, easy to use and looks very like what was originally used by the boat builder. 

Re silicon, for reasons best known to them they also ran a bead of silicon around the window edge, this has subsequent caused rusting after 6 years under the silicon possibly due to trapped acetic acid during the cure.

'Arboseal' butyl tape. 

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/281165391665?_mwBanner=1

Used it on Innisfree's brass portholes, superb stuff, it's a bit like bluetack, sticks well but stays flexible and can be peeled off at a later date. 

 

ETA: Keep some handy to use as a gasket to bed in all sorts of things, can be used like putty. 

Edited by nb Innisfree

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I thought I would complete the topic now all the windows have been refitted.

I bought a load of neoprene tape but came to the conclusion that I could only use this at the very bottom, as the opening was only 10mm or so smaller on each side than the window.

In the end I used Sikaflex adhesive sealant.

Rather than pop riveting the windows back in I decided to tap the holes with M5. That meant tapping something like 300 holes. I broke the first tap on the first window but the second survived the rest and was still working well. I used M5 stainless button screws and had to open holes on the windows from about 4.5 to 5.0mm.

Job done - thanks for the tips!!

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On 18/03/2017 at 11:46, matty40s said:

We use 3M sealing tape every time.

Hate silicone, bugger to get off completely and affects the paint if you don't. 

Best way is to tap the holes and use stainless steel or brass bolts to bring the window tight against the surround. 

That is exactly what was done with ours when the boat was repainted, by far the best way.

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On 18/03/2017 at 11:46, matty40s said:

We use 3M sealing tape every time.

Hate silicone, bugger to get off completely and affects the paint if you don't. 

Best way is to tap the holes and use stainless steel or brass bolts to bring the window tight against the surround. 

 

I have only just noticed the last bit of this post, I think.

I would very much advise not using brass screws or bolts to secure alloy window frames to a steel cabin.  You will likely get galvanic action, that results in the window frame being eroded away to the extent that the countersunk holes can get very enlarged.  Our previous boat had this to some considerable degree at only 10 years old.

Not so bad that the holes were too large to retain the screw heads, but certainly getting that way.

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1 hour ago, alan_fincher said:

 

I have only just noticed the last bit of this post, I think.

I would very much advise not using brass screws or bolts to secure alloy window frames to a steel cabin.  You will likely get galvanic action, that results in the window frame being eroded away to the extent that the countersunk holes can get very enlarged.  Our previous boat had this to some considerable degree at only 10 years old.

Not so bad that the holes were too large to retain the screw heads, but certainly getting that way.

Although I agree with you technically, putting brass portholes in with stainless steel screws is an absolute no-no for most customers...ditto those with brass effect bus windows.

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12 hours ago, alan_fincher said:

 

I would very much advise not using brass screws or bolts to secure alloy window frames to a steel cabin.

 

I used stainless steel screws to hold stainless frames so hope that's OK!

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On 18/03/2017 at 15:43, alan_fincher said:

Silicone seems to last about 10 years in this situation.  After that if you remove the window you will typically find a silocone "gasket" bonded to the window, but not to the cabin-side,. (I don't sunscribe to the "hard to get out" theory - well at least not after 10 years because in my experience once you remove the screws, you need to be careful they don't just fall out.

I would advise against using it on a boat you intend to keep.

My preference is an Evostick product called Glasticord, which is kind of "putty on a roll", (except its nothing like putty actually).  The biggest problem with Glasticord seems to be finding somewhere prepared to sell it in small enough quantities.

I have used this on the roof hatch and probably the portholes but cant remember for sure about them 

http://www.worldofcamping.co.uk/w4-mastic-sealing-strip

Edited by ditchcrawler
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