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Jabsco Par Max 2.9


Sea Dog

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Having wondered what was going on with all these leaky Jabsco fresh water pumps and associated snap fit connectors, I've now joined the club with a weeping pump or joint! Given it is 8 years old, I intend to change the pump rather than mess about resealing stuff, but I currently have an accumulator fitted downstream of the pump. Jabsco's own literature for the 31395-0292 (a direct replacement for the one fitted) says it is specifically designed not to need an accumulator. Since fewer fittings mean fewer joints, I'm considering leaving the accumulator out when I rebuild the system. Has anyone had any experience of the 0292 without an accumulator in the circuit? Can you recommend a fresh water system following Jabsco's advice?

 

Thanks in advance.

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Most freshwater pumps now say an accumulator is not necessary, but with the relatively small volume of water in a boat system, it will mean the pump will cycle quickly, and if there is the slightest leak, then the pump will 'pulse'. If you have a multipoint, this will impair the operation; very annoying in the shower. Also, if you get up in the night and fancy a cup of tea, you will disturb others who are sleeping.

Identify the insomniac with a 15 lt accumulator.

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Having wondered what was going on with all these leaky Jabsco fresh water pumps and associated snap fit connectors, I've now joined the club with a weeping pump or joint! Given it is 8 years old, I intend to change the pump rather than mess about resealing stuff, but I currently have an accumulator fitted downstream of the pump. Jabsco's own literature for the 31395-0292 (a direct replacement for the one fitted) says it is specifically designed not to need an accumulator. Since fewer fittings mean fewer joints, I'm considering leaving the accumulator out when I rebuild the system. Has anyone had any experience of the 0292 without an accumulator in the circuit? Can you recommend a fresh water system following Jabsco's advice?

 

Thanks in advance.

I would leave the accumulator in circuit. My Par Max 2.9 did work OK without an accumulator but it would fire up in the night as the calorifier cooled down. There was also some vibration / hammering when turning off taps. All fixed when I installed an accumulator.

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Really useful replies there guys, thanks.

 

So, an accumulator is staying in circuit! The system has performed flawlessly with it in, so we'll stick with it rather than reduce the number of joints by two.

 

I carry a box of O seals various, so I considered replacing those and adding silicone grease which hadn't previously been done. However, it sounds from other threads as though this isn't always successful. With that in mind, I'm reluctant to recommission the system only to find another leak because of one of these snap in seals. It's not so much that any of the job is at all difficult, it's the draining down, mopping up and drying out operation that sucks. I caught it at the dribble stage this first time so no damage was done, but I'm really fastidious about keeping a dry boat, hence I'm still considering the options if anyone can recommend a better connection.

 

Finally, both the accumulator and the pump are now 8 years old, so I'm thinking it may be false economy not to retire them both. Again, this is largely based on the experience of others here who've struggled with recurring leaks and failures of younger pumps. Of course, this is a good opportunity to change to something else if there's anything better than Jabsco - anyone know of anything?

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It's the nature of internet searches that you will find problems with any make of pump. But I wonder how many forum threads discuss pumps that go on forever? The best selling pumps will, statistically, have the highest numbers of failures even if all makes are equally reliable. Fit a well-known make; ensure the pipes are supported and not putting any strain onto the pump casing; make good electrical connections and keep volt drop low as motors will take more amps when voltage drops, compounding the problem. Mount the pump where it can be changed easily and arrange some method to alert you to leaks. Battery-operated leak detectors are cheap and the batteries last well. Or have a drip tray that drains somewhere visible.

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It's the nature of internet searches that you will find problems with any make of pump. But I wonder how many forum threads discuss pumps that go on forever? The best selling pumps will, statistically, have the highest numbers of failures even if all makes are equally reliable. Fit a well-known make; ensure the pipes are supported and not putting any strain onto the pump casing; make good electrical connections and keep volt drop low as motors will take more amps when voltage drops, compounding the problem. Mount the pump where it can be changed easily and arrange some method to alert you to leaks. Battery-operated leak detectors are cheap and the batteries last well. Or have a drip tray that drains somewhere visible.

Sound advice and all stuff I'm au-fait with and intend to implement. Just checking whether there are any improved alternatives before I blindly refit the same Jabsco units and connections really. My own experience with Jabsco stuff has certainly been positive until now, and 8 problem free years in this installation isn't too disappointing! As you point out, there are lots around and that also means replacements are available quickly. Thanks for the wise words.

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Really useful replies there guys, thanks.

 

So, an accumulator is staying in circuit! The system has performed flawlessly with it in, so we'll stick with it rather than reduce the number of joints by two.

 

I carry a box of O seals various, so I considered replacing those and adding silicone grease which hadn't previously been done. However, it sounds from other threads as though this isn't always successful. With that in mind, I'm reluctant to recommission the system only to find another leak because of one of these snap in seals. It's not so much that any of the job is at all difficult, it's the draining down, mopping up and drying out operation that sucks. I caught it at the dribble stage this first time so no damage was done, but I'm really fastidious about keeping a dry boat, hence I'm still considering the options if anyone can recommend a better connection.

 

Finally, both the accumulator and the pump are now 8 years old, so I'm thinking it may be false economy not to retire them both. Again, this is largely based on the experience of others here who've struggled with recurring leaks and failures of younger pumps. Of course, this is a good opportunity to change to something else if there's anything better than Jabsco - anyone know of anything?

That is the only success I have had in stopping leaks on this type of pump is changing the O rings when the joint leaked

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Have flexible pipes connecting to the pump. I have about 2 ft of braided hose between the pump and fixed pipework. I suspect this helps the joint by alowing a little bit of movement rather than trying to transmit the vibration to the fixed pipe.

 

9 years now with average 50% occupancy with no problems.

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So, replacing the O Rings is confirmed as being effective and the clear flexible hose I intend to add into the plastic pipework is a good idea. Thanks DC and Dor.

Worked for me, I used that blue translucent hose they sell on caravan/camping shops looks like this stuff http://www.motorhome-accessories.com/media/images/original/product_21_camping-water-hoses--2m.jpg

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Have flexible pipes connecting to the pump. I have about 2 ft of braided hose between the pump and fixed pipework. I suspect this helps the joint by alowing a little bit of movement rather than trying to transmit the vibration to the fixed pipe.

Same. High flow/diameter versions of the same things people use to connect up kitchen and bathroom taps.
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