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Blacking & the relevance of the base plate


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Any one who THINKS that not blacking the base plate is un necessary is a fool there is absolutely NO point in spending the money of a haul out and the materials to paint on just the sides the hull will rust just as bad OVER TIME  ......... the notion that it will scrape of is stupid .... it scrapes of the sides as well and is re painted every 3/4 years thus protecting it SO WHY  not the base plate over time you are storing up your problems ............. pitting can be avoided by fitting isolation transformers and ..... NOT ... galvanic isolators ..... also all your earths need to come back to a common earth buss bar ......... those of you who wish to continue to NOT PAINT your base plates then continue to do so but remember a base plate over plate is the end result some this on the base is better than nothing Trust me i know what I'm talking about i see plenty of base plates every day and constantly have to give people bad news.

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21 minutes ago, kittsy said:

Any one who THINKS that not blacking the base plate is un necessary is a fool there is absolutely NO point in spending the money of a haul out and the materials to paint on just the sides the hull will rust just as bad OVER TIME  ......... the notion that it will scrape of is stupid .... it scrapes of the sides as well and is re painted every 3/4 years thus protecting it SO WHY  not the base plate over time you are storing up your problems ............. pitting can be avoided by fitting isolation transformers and ..... NOT ... galvanic isolators ..... also all your earths need to come back to a common earth buss bar ......... those of you who wish to continue to NOT PAINT your base plates then continue to do so but remember a base plate over plate is the end result some this on the base is better than nothing Trust me i know what I'm talking about i see plenty of base plates every day and constantly have to give people bad news.

I could respond but on balance I think it will be less painful if I just concede that I am a fool.

JP

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29 minutes ago, Captain Pegg said:

I could respond but on balance I think it will be less painful if I just concede that I am a fool.

JP

Actualy i dont think its you that is the fool.

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8 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

Actualy i dont think its you that is the fool.

Me neither.

30 year old WotEver when we sold her had NO pitting on the base plate and no paint on it. Plenty of mussels though. 

The only pitting on the hull was near the waterline. 

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1 minute ago, WotEver said:

Me neither.

30 year old WotEver when we sold her had NO pitting on the base plate and no paint on it. Plenty of mussels though. 

The only pitting on the hull was near the waterline. 

Yep.

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+1 - another fool. I would also like the explanation as to why an IT WILL avoid pitting but a GI definitely will not.

if by some chance my hull did become positive in respect of the water I would rather not deliberately concentrate any corrosion where the insulating coating as been damaged although I am happy to concede the structure fo the plate/hull may  cause electrical corrosion to concentrate without the help of damaged blacking.

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24 years on no pitting on the baseplate almost no pitting on the waterline the only pitting that is getting bad is just below the skin fitting for the kitchen sink so I guess that is interaction between the brass fitting and the steel ;) my baseplate is down by 3mm on one corner where it has been worn away but will still outlast anyone on this forum as there's another 12mm to go and the boat isn't kept in the same place.

Oh and would I trust a GI if moored in a working boatyard/marina? NO, to many external factors come into play. Do I trust my airlink transformer that I have used for 11 years absoloutely.

Oh and what is this rust you speak of ? Only rust on Loddon ia above the waterline where the paint had been compromised 

Edited by Loddon
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Hi all,

Just purchased our first boat, I estimate its a late 70's model. Told it was blacked 2 years ago. Theres signs of rust on the waterline.

As a new owner I think £1000 looks steep to have the boat taken out of the water, blacked and put back.

Anyone know of a nice small traditional and friendly place I can get this done?

Or....can I get the boat taken out and grind back and paint it myself?

We are transporting the boat back from Cropredy to March so anywhere en route would be great :captain:

Tom n Jill......Thanks so much, this site is fantastic.

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7 minutes ago, Tom766 said:

Hi all,

Just purchased our first boat, I estimate its a late 70's model. Told it was blacked 2 years ago. Theres signs of rust on the waterline.

As a new owner I think £1000 looks steep to have the boat taken out of the water, blacked and put back.

Anyone know of a nice small traditional and friendly place I can get this done?

Or....can I get the boat taken out and grind back and paint it myself?

We are transporting the boat back from Cropredy to March so anywhere en route would be great :captain:

Tom n Jill......Thanks so much, this site is fantastic.

Do you intend to black it yourself or pay someone else. 

 

If you do it yourself and don't want access to the baseplate you could try Bill fen at Ramsey. 

 

If you want access to the baseplate. Blackthorn marina at Ringstead on river Nene. 

 

Both book up quickly though. 

Edited by rusty69
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8 minutes ago, Tom766 said:

Well I am careful ( yeah tight)  with money and great at DIY, i'd like to have a go myself buy if the price was right I'd hand over the job and watch with glass of red in hand :lol:

Edited my post with a couple of suggestions 

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My boat is in places on its third bottom. 6 years ago we were advised to get it grit blasted and 2 packed  as it had pitting. We did it at  the next docking (4 years) 2 late. 5 mm overplate, instead. £8000 ( we had paid for the gritblast and lift etc) . If we had two packed we would have been throwing away what we had gained

once the pitting starts it doesn't stop unless you clean off the pit and water seal it ( 2 pack), due to work and family circumstance we were too late.

Another of my boats had a 8mm rebottom not overplate in 1982 and another rebottom in 2011. Ok it was an open boat  for many years and we had carried some cargo in that time, however we attempted to keep it swept out and painted. It still  went from 8mm to uninsurable in 29 years. ( no mains on boat)

 

next year I will dock and recoat the bottom plate.....we are deep draft and bang and grind. That will start the process off again... It makes sense.

 

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Thanks so much, Ramsey is right next door. I'll work out how to post and reply properly eventually.

Just read the debate on baseplates and rust.....think i'll go with just the sides. Although it's a springer and I believe it's a V type hull...

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30 minutes ago, Tom766 said:

Hi all,

Just purchased our first boat, I estimate its a late 70's model. Told it was blacked 2 years ago. Theres signs of rust on the waterline.

As a new owner I think £1000 looks steep to have the boat taken out of the water, blacked and put back.

Anyone know of a nice small traditional and friendly place I can get this done?

Or....can I get the boat taken out and grind back and paint it myself?

We are transporting the boat back from Cropredy to March so anywhere en route would be great :captain:

Tom n Jill......Thanks so much, this site is fantastic.

Fox's in March would do it for less than that, there is also a dry dock on the Gt Ouse or Old West River that you can hire

32 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

 

 

If you do it yourself and don't want access to the baseplate you could try Bill fen at Ramsey. 

 

 

I thought they used a trolley so it may be high enough 

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4 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Fox's in March would do it for less than that, there is also a dry dock on the Gt Ouse or Old West River that you can hire

I thought they used a trolley so it may be high enough 

Its more like a trailer. 

 

Blackthorn has great access though. Did ours there last year inc baseplate 

Edited by rusty69
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10 hours ago, Tom766 said:

Well I am careful ( yeah tight)  with money and great at DIY, i'd like to have a go myself buy if the price was right I'd hand over the job and watch with glass of red in hand :lol:

To do 'the job' properly takes 7 days and 3 coats of blacking.

Not only are you taking up someones trailer / dock for 7 days but you have quite a lot of labour and materials.

Whilst I cannot remember the exact order of things  this is something like (from when ours went in) This was Early June.

Day 1- 7:00am - hull jet wash and dry off, then wire brush any loose flakes, jet wash and allow to dry off

Day 2 - 1st coat, and paint any of the awkward spots around prop, up weed hatch, etc etc.

Day 3 - 24 hours drying

Day 4 - repeat of day 2 (2nd coat)

Day 5 - repeat of day 3

Day 6 - repeat of day 2 (3rd coat)

Day 7 dry-off and re launch late afternoon.

 

CAM00052.jpg

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20 hours ago, WotEver said:

Me neither.

30 year old WotEver when we sold her had NO pitting on the base plate and no paint on it. Plenty of mussels though. 

The only pitting on the hull was near the waterline. 

has no-one told you that freshwater mussels EAT mild steel unless it's been blacked.  :rolleyes:

 

 

by the way, kittsy has clearly indicated that only a fool thinks blacking the baseplate is necessary, when he said 'Any one who THINKS that not blacking the base plate is un necessary is a fool'.  Remove the double negative, and his meaning becomes crystal clear - 'Any one who THINKS that blacking the base plate is necessary is a fool.'  B)

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17 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Day 1- 7:00am - hull jet wash and dry off, then wire brush any loose flakes, jet wash and allow to dry off

Day 2 - 1st coat, and paint any of the awkward spots around prop, up weed hatch, etc etc.

Day 3 - 24 hours drying

Day 4 - repeat of day 2 (2nd coat)

Day 5 - repeat of day 3

Day 6 - repeat of day 2 (3rd coat)

Day 7 dry-off and re launch late afternoon.

Why no painting day 3, is it a Sunday? :)

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21 hours ago, Captain Pegg said:

I could respond but on balance I think it will be less painful if I just concede that I am a fool.

JP

 

20 hours ago, WotEver said:

Just goes to show what a fool I am, I guess. 

 

20 hours ago, mrsmelly said:

Theres lots of us about.

And yet another one here!

 

17 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

+1 - another fool. I would also like the explanation as to why an IT WILL avoid pitting but a GI definitely will not.

 

For those who were not paying attention during chemistry lessons at school, put a nail vertically in a jam-jar of water, part in, part out. Leave it undisturbed for a year. Observe where it rusts (clue -- it's not at the bottom end).

 

18 minutes ago, Murflynn said:

has no-one told you that freshwater mussels EAT mild steel unless it's been blacked.  :rolleyes:

 

 

by the way, kittsy has clearly indicated that only a fool thinks blacking the baseplate is necessary, when he said 'Any one who THINKS that not blacking the base plate is un necessary is a fool'.  Remove the double negative, and his meaning becomes crystal clear - 'Any one who THINKS that blacking the base plate is necessary is a fool.'  B)

Yes, I do not not disagree with the contrary position.

Edited by Machpoint005
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14 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Allow blacking 24 hours to dry between coats (days 3,5,& 7)

We normally 

 

Day 1.Scrape and pressure wash

Day 2. 1st coat blacking

Day 3.2nd coat blacking 

Day 4. 3rd coat blacking

Day 5.drying p

Day 6.refloat (48 hrs after last coat) 

Day 7. Get drunk and celebrate that we don't have to do it again for two years. 

 

70 foot boat, 2 people. Usually manage some gloss and the baseplate too (although ot appears we may be wasting time and money with this bit) 

Edited by rusty69
Day 7 added
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