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Blue smoke and over heating


Keith.bryant

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I have a bmc 1.8 diesel engine that has started using a lot more oil than usual and has started to get very hot to the point of over heating. Am I right in thinking that the piston rings or boars are on there way out?? In the past year I have recommended the injectors and pump and changed the head gasket.

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I've also changed the Walter pump and some split rubbers on the heat exchange couple of months a go thinking that was the problem but still over heating and now blue smoke on start up but gets less once I'm under way. Wat about the valves could they be playing up also?? Forgot to mention also when I start up from cold engine idling is normal but when the engine gets hot it over reves is this a symptom of engin oil being burnt up through the pistons or/and values

Edited by Keith.bryant
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I've also changed the Walter pump and some split rubbers on the heat exchange couple of months a go thinking that was the problem but still over heating and now blue smoke on start up but gets less once I'm under way. Wat about the valves could they be playing up also?? Forgot to mention also when I start up from cold engine idling is normal but when the engine gets hot it over reves is this a symptom of engin oil being burnt up through the pistons or/and values

Does your Engine have a take off and return loop to heat a Calorifier?

 

If it does,make sure the water is flowing through it as even a small air void can stall the water cooling circuit for Cyl. head and Block

 

CT

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Header tank is full I have two hoses coming to and from the engine one is an inlet the other outlet there's also a connecting hose connecting both tanks so making the circuit I felt all hoses and both tanks today and everything was just as hot as each other nothing is cooling down and is getting hot to the point where water is coming out of the top of the header with the pressure. If everything is hot then water must be circulating

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Header tank is full I have two hoses coming to and from the engine one is an inlet the other outlet there's also a connecting hose connecting both tanks so making the circuit I felt all hoses and both tanks today and everything was just as hot as each other nothing is cooling down and is getting hot to the point where water is coming out of the top of the header with the pressure. If everything is hot then water must be circulating

If everything is hot then water is not circulating properly. If it were, the outlet from the skin tank would be a lot cooler than the inlet.

 

What circulates the water? If it is a Jabsco type pump have a look at the impeller. If it is damaged find the missing bits and renew it. I suspect that blowing the end caps has resulted in running the circ pump dry or in steam. Either is a good recipe for lost vanes.

 

N

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Changed the pump when some of the rubbers on the heat exchange split so I changed the water pump as well just because the pump looked old so thought it wouldn't do any harm but it was over heating before the pump was changed

Edited by Keith.bryant
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Changed the pump when some of the rubbers on the heat exchange split so I changed the water pump as well just because the pump looked old so thought it wouldn't do any harm but it was over heating before the pump was changed

Just for clarification,does the circulating pump bolt into the front of the cylinder block OR is it belt driven and sits alongside the Engine?

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I think you might need someone to take a look at it. There's half a dozen things that could be not right and you could end up with nuts and bolts and hoses all over the place and still baffled. Thing is that an engine can only produce a certain amount of heat and if everything, tanks, hoses and engine is hot then you need to get back to first principals and work out where the hot water should be going and make it go there. Breathers? Shouldn't need them but it won't do any harm to loosen a few hoses and see if there is water in them.

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Heat is caused by friction and compression explosion, sounds as if the piston cylinder sleeves are rubbing and creating heat, not guiding smoothly or the big ends are so worn that they are creating heat. Water is circulating and not cooling, too hot for the cooling system

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you replaced the pump I take its one with a rubber vane inside. If so did you retrieve all the old bit

 

I'm assuming we are just talking about the normal pump on the front of a BMC. No rubber in the ipeller, and provided it is the right pump, little scope for fitting anything wrongly.

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If everything is hot then water is not circulating properly. If it were, the outlet from the skin tank would be a lot cooler than the inlet.

 

With the caveat that if the skin tank is on the margins of being too small, (as many are), and the engine has developed a fault causing it to produce more heat than it should, it is perfectly possible for the water to be circulating, but there to be no great temperature gradient across the skin tank, simply because it doesn't present enough area to the canal to lose the heat fast enough.

 

I have been in more or less this situation with a BMC, and an undersized skin tank.

 

What are the dimensions of the skin tank, please, (length, depth and "thickness").

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