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Skipton - Then Which Way?


lydfordcastle

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Apart from the short stretch when returning from the Lancaster to Rugby ten years ago, I haven't cruised the Leeds and Liverpool since 1982 so in July our boat is staying at home in Brinklow while we pick up a Pennine Cruiser at Skipton for a week. Question is, which way to go? Our prime requirement is a pleasant mooring every night, good beer and good food, scenery and touristy things etc being of secondary importance. East looks favourite at the moment with a turnround point of either Bingley or Keighley but if you guys think the beer and food is better in the other direction, please speak up.

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Apart from the short stretch when returning from the Lancaster to Rugby ten years ago, I haven't cruised the Leeds and Liverpool since 1982 so in July our boat is staying at home in Brinklow while we pick up a Pennine Cruiser at Skipton for a week. Question is, which way to go? Our prime requirement is a pleasant mooring every night, good beer and good food, scenery and touristy things etc being of secondary importance. East looks favourite at the moment with a turnround point of either Bingley or Keighley but if you guys think the beer and food is better in the other direction, please speak up.

 

How long have you got? ed I see you covered that.

 

In a comfortable hire boat week we first headed West (where it's beautiful) through the tunnel at Foulridge, turned at Nelson and headed back East back through Skipton, down the Five and three rises (A must do) turned past Keighley and headed back. To me that trip takes in the 'highlights' of the L&L.

 

We have done that trip twice on a hire boat, once from Skipton and once from Silsden.

Edited by MJG
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The section west of Skipton to the Foulridge tunnel is one of the nicest I have been on throughout the system. I would go that way first and if time permits cover some of the length east of Skipton. It really depends how intensively you want to cruise to go both directions from Skipton in one week.

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Both times we've gone from Skipton, we went west... the first time we got as far as church and turned - the 2nd, just through foulridge and turned - with nice weather we'd have gone further again.

 

Gargrave has a couple of friendly pubs with decent grub so don't rush through it... it's also got a decent sized coop on the main road through. Foulridge itself has a nice pub at the top of the hill - I had kangaroo in there ... my nephews stuck with gammon and chips... (again). There's also a nice cafe/bar/bistro thing on the east side of the tunnel which was friendly too. We made the kids use the shower block there (no idea about showering sparingly) which was helpful. There's a lot of nice scenery going that way - twists and windy turns (some which catch you out so take it steady)...

 

Some friends went the other way - to Saltaire and beyond and found watering points a problem. It's worth allowing your final night in Skipton itself though - you can chug down to bradley and either be cheeky and turn at Snaygills, or a while after, to spend your last night in Skipton's visitor moorings.... Buzzie lizzies fish and chips for tea too..

 

 

 

West is best boat.gif

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Apart from the short stretch when returning from the Lancaster to Rugby ten years ago, I haven't cruised the Leeds and Liverpool since 1982 so in July our boat is staying at home in Brinklow while we pick up a Pennine Cruiser at Skipton for a week. Question is, which way to go? Our prime requirement is a pleasant mooring every night, good beer and good food, scenery and touristy things etc being of secondary importance. East looks favourite at the moment with a turnround point of either Bingley or Keighley but if you guys think the beer and food is better in the other direction, please speak up.

 

If scenery is of no great importance avoid the L & L, particularly the stunningly beautiful stretch between Gargrave and Barnoldswick if heading west from Skipton.

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If you do decide to head east, you might consider pushing on as far as Saltaire or at least as far as the Fisherman's Inn at the bottom of Dowley Gap locks (between Bingley and Saltaire). It's right by the canal and we enjoyed our meals when we ate there. The pie shop in Skipton, right by the Pennine Cruisers base, is worth visiting too. Beyond that I can't really help, not being a pub person.

 

I would just say that while by'eck is right about the stretch between Barnoldswick and Gargrave, the stretch between Skipton and Silsden is also pretty stunning. Not that you're likely to be swayed by the scenery by the sounds of it, but I don't think you'd be missing out too badly by heading east rather than west.

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We've never managed to get further East than Saltaire (itself worth an afternoon) - but is Leeds to awful?

 

Not at all. The stretch between Newlay Lock Flight and Kirkstall Lock has a bit of a reputation (so no overnight stopping), but the cruise from Shipley through Field Locks, Apperley Bridge, Rodley etc. is generally very pleasant and Leeds itself is by no means 'rough' or otherwise awful - it's a great, thriving city. Some very pleasant cruising on the Aire and Calder and beyond if you venture a bit further, too.

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We've never managed to get further East than Saltaire (itself worth an afternoon) - but is Leeds to awful?

It gets a bit 'gritty' in parts but much of it is very pleasant.

 

Rodley is a good mooring spot and the general advice we were given and followed was to moor there overnight and do the run into Leeds in one go.

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If scenery is of no great importance avoid the L & L, particularly the stunningly beautiful stretch between Gargrave and Barnoldswick if heading west from Skipton.

Yes - best stay away - I mean - who wants to boat through fantastic countryside?

 

Keep to the safe moorings and "good" pubs in all the popular spots along the system - what's wrong with the "Four Counties" for goodness sake........................

 

(Don't tell 'em about it by'eck...they'll all want one!)

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Go West young man! If you can spend a night at the bottom of Greenberfield Locks....stunning scenery. We spent a night there last year, no pub, no people just us a bottle of wine and a barn owl looking for his supper.

 

Turn round at Nelson and have a leisurely trip back to Skipton.

Edited by tillergirl
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Go West young man! If you can spend a night at the bottom of Greenberfield Locks....stunning scenery. We spent a night there last year, no pub, no people just us a bottle of wine and a barn owl looking for his supper.

 

Turn round at Nelson and have a leisurely trip back to Skipton.

Yes - really lovely - but don't tell everybody!!

 

BTW - love the avatar

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Go West young man! If you can spend a night at the bottom of Greenberfield Locks....stunning scenery. We spent a night there last year, no pub, no people just us a bottle of wine and a barn owl looking for his supper.

 

Turn round at Nelson and have a leisurely trip back to Skipton.

Just a short walk from the top of Greenberfield is the Rolls Royce Club, which is open to non-members. They usually have three good hand pulled beers, and Thursday is pie night, £5.50 for a choice of hand made pies with chips etc.

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Just a short walk from the top of Greenberfield is the Rolls Royce Club, which is open to non-members. They usually have three good hand pulled beers, and Thursday is pie night, £5.50 for a choice of hand made pies with chips etc.

SShhhh. Tell him, Tillergirl...

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If it's good beer you're after there's good choices either way and Skipton itself has some great pubs notably the Narrowboat.

 

West - Stunning scenery but the important stops are Gargrave, Mason's Arms, very friendly, near the church or the Old Swan close to the moorings. Cross Keys at East Marton by the double arch bridge. The Anchor at Saltersforth used to be good but I heard it changed hands so can't say now. Never been to the pub in Foulridge but I heard it was good. Worth a trip through the tunnel to Barrowford top lock but the last turning point is about a mile before the top lock. I have turned in the pounds in a hire boat but it was so long ago can't remember how long the boat was. If you walk west from the last bridge before the top lock there's the very excellent Cross Gaits good food & beer.

East - the Bay Horse canalside at Snaygill - expensive! The White Lion at Kildwick, I've never stopped at Silsden nor the Marquis of Granby Riddlesden but the Brown Cow Inn at Bingley was brilliant last time I was there. Then Fanny's at Saltaire is a must for beer drinkers. The Rodley Barge is worth a visit before Leeds where you are simply spoilt for choice but if you make it that far try The Scarborough Taps opp station, the Grove a few hundred yards south of lock 1 for good beer and great music or Whitelocks in the city centre built in 1715 great beer.

No matter which way you go it'll be a wonderful trip

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  • 1 month later...

My bet as a past Skipton home moorer of 2 years and a fellow Yorkshireman. Got West. Take in Gargrave either on your way west or east. You should get to Foulridge and wind either just before the tunnel or after. If you have time get down to the top of Bingley. Wind just above the 5, on your way back. You can take in Skipton the day you take the boat back.

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