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Making a level


Mike at Mayroyd

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If I encounter a badly leaking mitre (the join between the two gates) I drop my boat pole into the upstream gap. That makes a very good seal.


If I encounter a badly leaking mitre (the join between the two gates) I drop my boat pole into the upstream gap. That makes a very good seal.

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I have on occasions (most recently at Perry Barr on the Tame Valley Canal) used my small anchor (which we kept from our yoghurt pot!) as a dragline, to move bricks or stones that were on the cill and stopping the gate properly (leaving a three inch gap). Attempting to fill the lock without solving the problem 1) wastes a lot of water 2) risks warping the gate 3) is unlikely to work in terms of getting the lock remotely full.

 

I have used ropes to open stubborn gates - tie one end to the end of the balance beam, or to the outer edge of the gate, and the other end to something solid; then push sideways at the mid point which gives you a good mechanical advantage.

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In the topic "Piper narrowboat ramming a lock gate" mayalid made the very good comment that there are reasonable ways to get a level. As a newcomer I would welcome advice on how people have dealt with this problem.

 

In the first instance make sure the paddles at the other end are completely closed, It's surprising how often they look closed abut are open just enough to prevent a level on a leaky lock.

 

Also make sure the gates are properly closed, if they don't close squarely then reset the water level so the problem gate can be opened, and then prod around with your boat pole or boat hook to see if you can find what's causing the problem.

 

If it still won't close despite your best efforts then the last resort is to call C&RT.

 

But if gates and paddles are all closed properly then move on to the excellent suggestions above. I'l try and remember them not the ash one though, we haven't got a fire!

 

Sue

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  • 3 months later...

One way that has been a access for me many times is to take a long rope from the very end of the lock beam on the gate you are trying to open to the bollard as far down the lock as you can get and tie it off like a giant bow string. Then PULL it in the middle as though you were drawing a longbow. This will move the gate enough, a couple of inches and the upstream water will flow into the lock quickly and make a level.

Ian

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I have a scaffold pole that has been used many times to force open lock gates.

 

We had serious problems coming down Caen Hill at the first lock and have just been told by the lockies that the only way to get the bottom gates open sometimes is to release water from the pound above so that there's less pressure on the very leaky top gates. Some of the suggestions above simply will not work on some of the atrocious gates on the system these days.

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And how will that help when the gate is leaking thousands of litres an hour.

 

Its an old trick that works remarkably well, the ash expands rapidly and clogs the gap, most old lockkeepers always "ashed" the flight at night to stop pounds going down. In my film "A Canal too far" we filmed the Devises lock keeper doing it.

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I have used my LugAll winch a few times but that would usually be to open botton gates if the top gates were overflowing rather than leakage problems.

 

Its an old trick that works remarkably well, the ash expands rapidly and clogs the gap, most old lockkeepers always "ashed" the flight at night to stop pounds going down. In my film "A Canal too far" we filmed the Devises lock keeper doing it.

Also used when fitting stop planks.

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Its an old trick that works remarkably well, the ash expands rapidly and clogs the gap, most old lockkeepers always "ashed" the flight at night to stop pounds going down. In my film "A Canal too far" we filmed the Devises lock keeper doing it.

 

Also used when fitting stop planks.

 

Also done after loading wooden boats that had laid empty for a while in hot sunny weather and were making a lot of water through dry, open seams.

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One way that has been a access for me many times is to take a long rope from the very end of the lock beam on the gate you are trying to open to the bollard as far down the lock as you can get and tie it off like a giant bow string. Then PULL it in the middle as though you were drawing a longbow. This will move the gate enough, a couple of inches and the upstream water will flow into the lock quickly and make a level.

Ian

This works a treat, we have done it at Whiston on the Nene, the kids had obviously lobbed something in the lock that was preventing the guillotine gate from closing fully and preventing the lock from making a level. They are bigish locks at 80 x 14 odd feet so a slight leak is a big problem.

 

Buggered if I was going to wait for the EA 'rapid' response team to sort the job out.

 

You need absolute confidence in your ropework so you don't end up on your arse if the rope comes adrift :)

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This works a treat, we have done it at Whiston on the Nene, the kids had obviously lobbed something in the lock that was preventing the guillotine gate from closing fully and preventing the lock from making a level. They are bigish locks at 80 x 14 odd feet so a slight leak is a big problem.

 

Buggered if I was going to wait for the EA 'rapid' response team to sort the job out.

 

You need absolute confidence in your ropework so you don't end up on your arse if the rope comes adrift smile.png

 

If you can get the rope off the ground at the mid point then you can just stand on it - if you are heavy enough - and it will have the same effect ..

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An Atherstone wedge on narrow locks.

 

Whilst I knew I'd seen this term before I had to resort to google to figure out why or how huh.pngsmile.png

 

I have seen most of the techniques described above working (and effectively) and as a young teenager saw the rope trick enhanced by the use of a "spanish windlass". The first time I'd ever seen that used in anger

Not something I'd recommend now though ohmy.png

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Its an old trick that works remarkably well, the ash expands rapidly and clogs the gap, most old lockkeepers always "ashed" the flight at night to stop pounds going down. In my film "A Canal too far" we filmed the Devises lock keeper doing it.

A couple of years ago I had the opportunity to watch a CRT team ash the stop planks just inserted above a lock for a short stoppage to clear a paddle. It was amazing how quickly and well it worked.

 

Also interesting to hear that the source of the ash was critical - they much preferred that from a local steam railway.

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