A Wee one to start again.

[W+T]

EErrrrr ok

[W+T]

lol just noticed this thread has got more followers now after all that jibber jabber. Murf and Richard

[rusty69]

3 minutes ago, W+T said:

lol just noticed this thread has got more followers now after all that jibber jabber. Murf and Richard

A few more followers and you can start your own religion........Waynism

[Murflynn]

2 hours ago, W+T said:

lol just noticed this thread has got more followers now after all that jibber jabber. Murf and Richard

YOU'RE WELCOME.  

[W+T]

OMG i hate computers, just spent an hour trying to download pictures. Think my laptop is overloaded with pics so i had to delete a few hundred.

So here goes for the update, again not much but still bits done.

I started to make the new cabin step, not sure if i mentioned that before, it is being made from the left over Iroko off cuts of the old school work top i got for the galley worktop. It is not yet done but as soon a si have done this i will be doing a bit more.

I have had the Propex HS2000 heater going for the last few weekends to see how it coped with the cold temps. All i can say is that even with no hatch and the cabin door not sealed and lots of drafts it is great. Today the temps got down to -2degC and the heater was set half way and it held the temp at 17degC with ease. So i am happy there. 

Little job was to fit the finger door pulls i made a week or so ago, no big job but done atleast.

Clamped inplace while the glue is setting 
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/o4vw9xe9j/tn_20171202_101618_011.jpg

About a year ago John ( jfm ) sent me some goodies and these are what was in the box. These courtesy lights give a nice cosy feel now. I wired them to a switch on the radio box.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/wady8acuv/tn_20171210_161857.jpg

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/duthas3uf/tn_20171210_161809.jpg

Most of this weekend i have been onto the Heads, i decided to use the bathroom PVC wall cladding but not the trim as the cost is way over priced IMO. The cladding cost £42 for four packs which has done all the Heads and more to do the cupboard when i do the frame work. The trim would of been at least £80. 

With that i have decided as said to use silicone so the joints are very close together so i can get a good bead down the joints. At the minute the panels are stapled in place.

Again as before to get the quickest and best profile i used the canvas. Well worth the £10 it cost for 8m of the stuff, it was a off cut/roll end from an awning manufacturers. 

Just pushed in place and stapled before running a pencil into the corner. The staples easy pull out when you need to remove it. 
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/rbqftk6fb/tn_20171210_105535.jpg

A few more measurements and then mark out.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/h1o0ucj4n/tn_20171210_111356.jpg

And fit
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/hr6t6ntxz/tn_20171210_112533.jpg

All done but for the door and rear lower panel as this will be removable incase access is needed to the water tank pipes. 
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/yeyb9aegn/tn_20171210_145646.jpg

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/nfd3xqlhj/tn_20171210_145632.jpg

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/5nww5re6v/tn_20171210_145556.jpg

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/b0qbxdbyv/tn_20171210_151258.jpg

Once i have siliconed the panels inplace i will be making a small cupboard along the port side, on narrow so as not to take up to much room. Running along that under the port hole will be a towel rail. 

Like i do i spent hours and hours choosing light for the heads and i have decided to go with these. Two will be fitted from the corner above the sink. 
 

image: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/6WkAAOSwyltZUfsH/s-l1600.jpg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302363560...r=601199625846


I am on the look out now for a SS or aluminium port hole liner to finish it off nice.


I will be ordering the shower head next month from Germany, the one i posted to last update. Need a switch yet for the heads light also. 


Today the batteries ran to low to run the heater so i need a charger now, debating if to get a cheap one for now or a decent one for when the boat is done. 

And one or two of these. I would like one for each of the two batteries.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAC1100A-...53.m1438.l2649


Things to buy, it never ends.....such fun i love it

Righto i am off to rip some Iroko up  :)

 

[Naughty Cal]

That's starting to look like a proper cosy cabin.

Can the bulkhead reading lights be dimmed?

[W+T]

Hi Rach

 

Looks cozy now  but as you mention the berth lights are a bit bright, i dont think they are dimmable as what i wanted but it all went over my head as to what to get and olk saying LEDs can and cant be dimmed so i give up.

 

This is all the spec i have on them and they are switched them selves

 

I have some 3w lights and they are nowhere near as bright as these ones.

 

Specification:
Type:3 W Cree LED
Material：Aluminum
Voltage: DC 12V,24V
Light: D29MM*L50MM
Base:D60*H25MM
Color:White （6000K）
Luminous flux:150 LM

 

 

Or a brain wave of making a light diffuser to clip over the lights for those romantic nights  

Edited December 12, 2017 by W+T

[W+T]

Hope you all had a great xmas day

Me, well not really the best but its all over now and i can get on with the boat a bit more, you would not believe how hard it was for me to not do anything on the boat or in the workshop for a day.

I wasnt going to bother updating until i had actually finished one of the jobs i have been getting on with but i thought heck why not.

The jobs in hand are the heads/shower tray and the cabin step. 

I have fitted a drain the heads floor as it will sort of be a wet room type heads. The drain will be piped up to the Whale Gulper that is also used for a system drain when needs be. Just the matter of switching over a couple of taps to empty either the shower or system.

How it started was with the choice of where to fit the drain. I decided to fit it here so i have easy access to the drain from the inspection hatch in the galley floor area. 
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/r8mftms9z/tn_20171223_115500.jpg

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/6ohlv54t3/tn_20171223_124216.jpg

Here i got the sink to get a mould from to get a good finish for the drain/pug hole to fit. I layed up two 350grm and then a 650grm combo. 

Oh and not to forget the PVA Blue to ease removal. 
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/q6c9b2u13/tn_20171223_130044.jpg

Screwdriver is to keep the laminate tight against the hole edge.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/hbbf0ln93/tn_20171223_141057.jpg

Day after peeled off nice and easy, then time to mark out and trim to shape. An angle grinder and plasma disc comes in again.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/akuxr6fiv/tn_20171224_110848.jpg

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/3ueghq57r/tn_20171224_110841.jpg

Now the messy bit, and sorry as i seem to have lost the pics for this stage but once the drain housing had been drawn around i used a Tungsten Carbide disc like here.

These just rip out the wood in seconds, like i use on GRP to remove that.
 

image: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/8osAAOSwb69Z12Qm/s-l1600.jpg

Then a Dremmel to drop the edge lower down so then the housing can sit below the floor level. 

To fit it i sealed all the timber first with epoxy then 316 SS screws to hold it down in time for laminating the whole floor.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/4jx8u3l6v/tn_20171224_111711.jpg

What i also did was lay a new floor of 4mm ply to level it a little more and help the water run towards the drain a little more, if it does we will have to see as it will depend on how the boat sits in the water once afloat. 
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/59g16h15z/tn_20171224_112210.jpg

Here it is in place ready for laminating, the hole o drilled out and used the Dremmel to trim back whilst holding the mould on the original sink.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/ccnwm3m13/tn_20171224_124557.jpg

As we know GRP matting does not go into tight corners to well so to get a nice radius i rotted in the shed for one of my old fishing poles.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/ptkv4xec7/tn_20171223_131540.jpg

Just a matter to cut down into four sections with the grinder again and with the help of some ally angle i have to get a straight edge.

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/x9k4qpubr/tn_20171223_131332.jpg

Trim to length and wot not

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/59g16hobb/tn_20171224_135032.jpg

One thing i have been thinking on what to do is if to raise the left/stern half of the floor so there is a run of to the drain. Only thing is where it will be raised is where the porta loo is going so the loo will need the front edge raised to level it out. 

I was going to laminate it today but temps dropped down to 2-3degrees so i decided to leave it for now. 

Well thats as far as that got.


Now, joinery, a new thing for me but i gave it a go. Not very accurate but it is going ok. As mentioned earlier on the thread i have some left over Iroko that i am using to make a cabin step. I do enjoy working with wood and have a lot more bits n bobs to make yet which are more simple than this step so i have jumped in the deep end here.

Oh and dont forget it is not exactly finished yet as the sides need making yet aswell as loads of sanding back before a few coats of Le Lonkinois varnish.

Did i say i love the new table saw. Well worth the money.

A pile of scrap Iroko.

And please be kind as this is do as i go fashion. I dont tend to do drawings etc of what i am doing. Maybe i should to make things quicker and easier. 
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/e7kvgw1iv/tn_20171203_141716.jpg

Rip it up here and there for the main frame. 
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/d5aoycqfb/tn_20171203_141713.jpg

Both riser are made the same.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/o1rwa3053/tn_20171224_152704.jpg

The risers are infilled with 28mm x 5.5mm, but the step is 95mm x 8mm (i think) i forget now.

One of the riser glued and drying
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/badq3l5sn/tn_20171224_162051.jpg

And as it is at the minute. Fairly happy with it and i think it will look better once sanded back and vanished.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/dey34nzpj/tn_20171224_155211.jpg

Plan is to have the steps hinged as the step is over the water pump so i will need access there aswell as to the pipe work. 


If temps stay low, well expect them to be, i cant do much laminating or gluing etc i will do small jobs that need doing like fit a few mains plug sockets wiring and things.

So all best y`all and now we are near into 2018 i am gettig more excited for the launch in late spring/summer
 

Edited December 26, 2017 by W+T

[Naughty Cal]

Our shower drain is located towards the aft end of the shower room which is unfortunate as the boat has a tendancy to sit bow down so the water ends up at the wrong end of the room

 

ETA: Looking forward to the launch now. Any ideas where the first launch will be?

Edited December 26, 2017 by Naughty Cal

[W+T]

2 minutes ago, Naughty Cal said:

Our shower drain is located towards the aft end of the shower room which is unfortunate as the boat has a tendancy to sit bow down so the water ends up at the wrong end of the room

 

ETA: Looking forward to the launch now. Any ideas where the first launch will be?

Hi Rach 

It will be sods law with mine aswell , it will flow to the rear lol. I always think that when sat at rest the cruisers i have had have sat bow down a little more. This is the reason i am tempted to raise the rear half of the floor a little, maybe only 12mm or so to help it just incase.

 

Ideas of where to launch you ask. Well i think everywhere in the North ha sbeen thought of. Last one was to launch near home on the Bridge water area ( slip way dependent ) and have a cruise up to Carnforth then back and over the L&L to Stanley ferry marina fort he first outing. Its where we still fancy a perm mooring ( thats if we still want a perm mooring by then lol ) . We would do it over weekends at a time so it will be a great summer to look forward to for a change. Just a matter to get as far as we want then bus/train etc back to the car to get home. Take a lot of planning but part of the fun. 

[Canal Cuttings]

Just a thought, but you have now invested so much time and money in this boat you should think about insuring it.  It might prove virtually impossible until it is complete, but I know that "off-road" cover for classic cars under restoration is relatively cheap, as a comparison.

[W+T]

2 hours ago, Canal Cuttings said:

Just a thought, but you have now invested so much time and money in this boat you should think about insuring it.  It might prove virtually impossible until it is complete, but I know that "off-road" cover for classic cars under restoration is relatively cheap, as a comparison.

Infact it is not impossible. I looked into this a few months or so ago. I sent details and pics etc of to a few insurance companies and i got an agreed valuation on it at full market value to the state it was back then. It would only covered for dry standing. 

And still i havnt insured it.

[Naughty Cal]

It is certainly to get it insured!

[W+T]

On 1/1/2018 at 14:11, Naughty Cal said:

It is certainly to get it insured!

Yep i certainly need to do so now dont i. I will book a day off work as if they are anything like car insurance nowadays then it will take some time lol.

 

 

 

[Naughty Cal]

16 hours ago, W+T said:

Yep i certainly need to do so now dont i. I will book a day off work as if they are anything like car insurance nowadays then it will take some time lol.

 

 

 

Marine insurance is nothing like car insurance. They are pretty good at tailoring cover to suit exactly what you need.

And as we found out last year they are very good at sorting out claims. Well ours were anyway. 

[W+T]

On 1/4/2018 at 08:17, Naughty Cal said:

Marine insurance is nothing like car insurance. They are pretty good at tailoring cover to suit exactly what you need.

And as we found out last year they are very good at sorting out claims. Well ours were anyway. 

Well up to know its much the same as getting a quote for it. Takes bloomin ages. 

I have had i think the best from Towergate on a Platinum policy ( fully comp ) at £152. Market value, which i dont understand as the value varies so much but they agreed to £5k value for the boat alone exlcu engine and personal contents .  It includes loads of extras which i still need to check through towards other quotes of the same price but for a quid or so as some things from Towergate i dont really need. 

Will call a few more but that seems good.

[Naughty Cal]

10 minutes ago, W+T said:

Well up to know its much the same as getting a quote for it. Takes bloomin ages. 

I have had i think the best from Towergate on a Platinum policy ( fully comp ) at £152. Market value, which i dont understand as the value varies so much but they agreed to £5k value for the boat alone exlcu engine and personal contents .  It includes loads of extras which i still need to check through towards other quotes of the same price but for a quid or so as some things from Towergate i dont really need. 

Will call a few more but that seems good.

That's more than ours for a 38k insured value (excluding dinghy, outboard and contents) fully comp with full UK coastal and inland and some EU cover.

I would get some more quotes.

[W+T]

1 minute ago, Naughty Cal said:

That's more than ours for a 38k insured value (excluding dinghy, outboard and contents) fully comp with full UK coastal and inland and some EU cover.

I would get some more quotes.

OMG, and to think i near taken it out 

 

Thanks Rach  

[Flyboy]

1 hour ago, W+T said:

OMG, and to think i near taken it out 

 

Thanks Rach  

Try Craftinsure, I find them very competitive.     http://www.craftinsure.com/

Edited January 5, 2018 by Flyboy

[Naughty Cal]

Our insurance is with Allianz through a broker, Velos. 

[W+T]

It has been to long now between updates. I have been delayed still in finishing the heads due the temps being to cold for the adhesive to set properly. Still no rush as lots of small jobs to do. I only really get weekends now to work on the boat so that annoys me at times. 

Still here we go with what been done, now i dont mind electrics but electronics i just cant get my head around, not enough gray matter left i think to fit it all in with all the other gubbins going on in there.


I was looking for a voltmeter/ammeter and found this on line. It was easy to wire up once i got to understand the Chinglish instructions and a few online videos etc. 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-120V-10...72.m2749.l2649
 

image: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/uLIAAOSwayZXj0U3/s-l500.jpg

It is either USB connected to the shunt unit or wireless which is the way i set it up. I believe it is more accurate when it is wireless. 

To wire it up you need to fit the shunt unit in the NEG feed from battery to fuse box, mine is around 400mm from the battery and the LED meter itself is around 300mm from that. For the POS feed for the shunt unit and LED meter i wired to the fuse box ( 2amp fuse ) both RED wires ( shunt only needs a POS to it as it is already using the NEG from the battery ) and the NEG from the LED meter to a spare earth in the fuse box aswell.

I had difficulty at first as when i was messing with it to set it up some how i messed up the reading, so to amend it all that had to be done was to calibrate it. this way.

With no current passing through, scroll up to NCP and hold for a couple of seconds you will now
see C-U at he top press up button once more and C-I will be highlighted, press OK bottom of
display will show:
CAL-CURRENT:
(I=0)
xxxxx
Where xxxxx is a 5 digit number
If you now press the up arrow the current will 0 and the 5 figure number will change. Pressing OK
again will have a setting for I>0 hopefully you haven't changed this as a guide it may be in the
region 020xx don't change this just press OK again and you should be calibrated. If it is still out
then on the I>0 screen you need to have a known current going through preferably greater than 5
amps, the more the better, and adjust the displayed calibration number until the amps reading
matches reality then press ok again.


Good bright ( adjustable brightness ) screen, this is when i first fitted it.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/6z0p5qkdz/tn_20180114_154719.jpg

I still need to understand the DIS rate etc and a few things but its working fine and very accurate, the olny thing it cant read is the galley light which draws 0.2amps

You can see it here in the top right mounted with the rest if the electrics. At long last i fitted the fuse box door today. on the look out for a small catch now, i like shopping

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/4t4k5sy1z/tn_20180121_113925.jpg

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/rhtr5d7pz/tn_20180121_113920.jpg

Small quick jog here was to move the heads light switch to outside. I was going to get a waterproof cover for it then decided i didnt like it there so a new hole was to be drilled for it. 
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/s7cjhqvev/tn_20180121_113945.jpg

This months shopping list arrived this week. I dont know if i mentioned but i ordered a Sapele veneer/ply before xmas and it arrived 2 weeks ago, i got a call from the wood yard to say they think it is not Sapele and asked if i can come and check. Well got there yesterday and it is White Oak, MMmmmm so another 3 week wait for it to arrive. It is only for the cool box cupboard and a few panels so at least no big rush for it. 

Here we have a Osculati shower unit which i rather like and got that from overseas somewhere, lol dont even know i think it was called The Yatch Shop. 

Along with that the double extesion draw sliders for the cool box to pull out fully to get into the cool box easier. Screws and washers as i have made some window handles as i couldnt find any to fit the holes that already drilled in the windows.

I have decided to fit 240v sohere is the Garage RCD unit. not yet got the artic cable but a dual independent plug socket i have fitted it above the cool box cupboard with the rest of the sockets/charge USB points.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/mvxmwzrbr/tn_20180120_114233.jpg

Slide out draw with Underneath storage area for shoes n wot not.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/zakexby9j/tn_20180120_123703.jpg

300mm long closed and 610mm open so It will take a 25l cool box, enough for the basics and a few bottles of cider : ) 

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/43lrte7s7/tn_20180120_133429.jpg

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/6864ui49z/tn_20180120_141454.jpg

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/4gd5zmnhz/tn_20180120_155928.jpg

Another job for this weekend was these, didnt take long to make, only three are needed. Just a few play with the router and Dremmel to clean back and trim off, just needs a varnishing now.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/bwcflfqmv/tn_20180121_103452.jpg

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/43lrtgsdj/tn_20180121_105743.jpg

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/p0hzy5djr/tn_20180121_114829.jpg

I used some plastic inserts for the M5 SS screws to go through, the holes are 8mm in the glass. On the outside 20mmx1.5mm rubber washer under 20mmxM5 are used to protect the glass.
 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/55vyc0qmf/tn_20180121_114650.jpg

 

image: https://s5.postimg.org/tz5icop2f/tn_20180121_114842.jpg

Ah just remember the main job i wanted to do this weekend and i havnt dont it. I got a charger over xmas. this one, a 30amp which will do the job for the two 110a batteries i will be running. Only on a single old 110a at the minute.

https://electroquestuk.com/chargers/...harger-12v-30a

I cant decide where to fit it, i dont really want it to go under the rear deck, it is dry but could get damp. I am tight on space now around the electric box. I am going to pop out in a minute and have another look where i could fit it. Dont want it to far from the batteries.


Plan for the next update is to have the step finished and charger inplace, along with the head door made and if temps get up the heads lined out along with the galley. I should of gone to collect a sheet of laminate yesterday but i slept in.

I get so frustrated when i sleep in past 8am, waste of a day.
 

[Naughty Cal]

That charger states it is a marine charger but then doesn't go on to state what level of splash or water resistance it is manufactured too. 

If it is truly marine it should have some level of water resistance in which case it would be fine mounted under the rear deck. But you would want to check that with the manufacturer first.

Ours sits in the engine bay next the the engine room vents and is prone to getting some spray onto it through the engine vents. 

[W+T]

On 1/23/2018 at 08:17, Naughty Cal said:

That charger states it is a marine charger but then doesn't go on to state what level of splash or water resistance it is manufactured too. 

If it is truly marine it should have some level of water resistance in which case it would be fine mounted under the rear deck. But you would want to check that with the manufacturer first.

Ours sits in the engine bay next the the engine room vents and is prone to getting some spray onto it through the engine vents. 

Hi Rach, sorry for later reply. I wouldnt say it is waterproof of any type by the looks of it. 

Anyhow i have found a nice dry warm place for it now, under the cabin step above the water pump, i have at last finished the step and will be varnishing it in the next week or so a si have ordered the Le tonkin varnish and the rest of the boat i hope.

 

While i am here i have some bad news on the launch time. I think it may be delayed for a few months longer, maybe July or August, not to sure yet as i have a big drop in boat funds as wage has been dropped by a significant amount. 

 

So plan is to do what needs to be done to get it on the water asap, hul work a sin re laminate the hull when weather permits and get it painted.

I still have materials to get the Gallley and Heads finished and most the interior but no canopy a a few bits n bobs which can be done while its on the water.

 

We wills ee as we go, but good point is i should have more time to do the work now as hours have been dropped at work, always a silver lining hey

[Naughty Cal]

You have not reconsidered your options on the hull work then?

[W+T]

2 hours ago, Naughty Cal said:

You have not reconsidered your options on the hull work then?

I keep going  to and from with either bodging it ( thats filling holes and coat of Epoxy ) or re`laminate. I like the idea of re`laminating but the work involved to get a good finish gives me nightmares lol, good peace of mind though.