Pole and plank rack

[blackrose]

I want to reposition my pole and plank racks from the back of the roof to the front as it gets in the way of one of my centre ropes and also gets in the way when I want to get onto the roof.

 

The options are to cut the brackets off with an angle grinder and get them welded back on at the front (I don't weld); cut them off and buy some new ones that I can screw on, or I've heard that magnetic brackets are available, although I couldn't find any after a quick google search.

 

What would you do?

 

Edited January 16, 2015 by blackrose

[Robbo]

Try http://www.atlantaboats.co.uk/shop.html, although looks to be sold out.

Edited January 16, 2015 by Robbo

[cuthound]

I've recently had this done on my boat, choosing to pay someone rather than do it myself and risk a leak.

 

The guy drilled new holes, taking care to miss the edges of the roof stiffening ribs, by knocking and listening to the echo.

 

He put the old bolts back in the old holes, after smearing the threads with Sikaflex. Finally he filled in over the top of the old bolts with Sikaflex and smoothed it off ready for painting. To date no leaks.

 

 

ETA that my pole brackets were bolted, not welded on. Not sure I would trust magnetic ones unless they were as powerful as a sea-searcher or similar. Perhaps cut off welded btackets and replace with bolted ones?

Edited January 16, 2015 by cuthound

[Machpoint005]

Mine are wooden and just sit there under their own weight - not fixed.

[blackrose]

Try http://www.atlantaboats.co.uk/shop.html, although looks to be sold out.

 

Yes, I found that one also.

I've recently had this done on my boat, choosing to pay someone rather than do it myself and risk a leak.

 

The guy drilled new holes, taking care to miss the edges of the roof stiffening ribs, by knocking and listening to the echo.

 

He put the old bolts back in the old holes, after smearing the threads with Sikaflex. Finally he filled in over the top of the old bolts with Sikaflex and smoothed it off ready for painting. To date no leaks.

 

I think that's the way I'll probably go too (except I'll do it myself).

 

My roof is 5mm thick so there's enough thickness to tap a thread. I don't get on well with self-tapping screws.

[Bettie Boo]

I did "some" research on the magnetic ones a few months back and it was a resounding "don't waste your money" reply from all but one person who had them.

 

Apparently they break quite easily.

[Robbo]

 

Yes, I found that one also.

 

I think that's the way I'll probably go too (except I'll do it myself).

 

My roof is 5mm thick so there's enough thickness to tap a thread. I don't get on well with self-tapping screws.

 

You could just bolt on some magnets?

[ditchcrawler]

Mine are wooden and just sit there under their own weight - not fixed.

Mine just sit on 4 rubber door stops.

[pete.i]

I bought a couple of pairs a while back. They were fairly substantial clear perspex ones. They wouldn't have broken but the magnets were quite small and they didn't adhere particulary well and they caused a rusty place under the feet (?) where the magnets were sitting on the paint which would have penetrated the paint eventually I have no doubt. I got mine off EBay but I cannot remember the seller.

[Kae]

Mine just sit on 4 rubber door stops.

 

Same with mine. Shaped wooden supports which have door stops on the bottom (with one side trimmed down take into account the curvature of the roof).

 

They're 12 years old and are just about looking like they need replacing.

[Leo No2]

You could try four of these (http://www.first4magnets.com/pot-clamping-magnets-c43/32mm-dia-stainless-steel-neodymium-pot-magnet-with-m8-internal-thread-includes-washers-and-bolt-39kg-pull-p3869) - I use this type of thing so I don't have to drill holes - I hate drilling holes (or as is the case now having holes drilled for me) in anything!

[Bettie Boo]

You could try four of these (http://www.first4magnets.com/pot-clamping-magnets-c43/32mm-dia-stainless-steel-neodymium-pot-magnet-with-m8-internal-thread-includes-washers-and-bolt-39kg-pull-p3869) - I use this type of thing so I don't have to drill holes - I hate drilling holes (or as is the case now having holes drilled for me) in anything!

 

ohhh now that looks like a great idea - thanks for sharing

[blackrose]

You could try four of these (http://www.first4magnets.com/pot-clamping-magnets-c43/32mm-dia-stainless-steel-neodymium-pot-magnet-with-m8-internal-thread-includes-washers-and-bolt-39kg-pull-p3869) - I use this type of thing so I don't have to drill holes - I hate drilling holes (or as is the case now having holes drilled for me) in anything!

 

Thanks. I suppose I could attach my pole and plank rack that I cut off the roof to the magnets if I can figure out a way of doing it.

 

Mind you, I don't mind drilling holes and those magnets are very expensive. I think I may as well just buy these.

 

http://www.blackcountrymetalworks.co.uk/double-plank-pole-rack-round-style.htm?gclid=Cj0KEQiAiuOlBRCU-8D6idaPz_UBEiQAzTagNFtBQ7BpfqqUPn6gLdczA4OW8zCRwC0yUlJYHCd59zcaAtIN8P8HAQ

Edited January 16, 2015 by blackrose

[DHutch]

We don't have any, the pole and plank just rest on the roof....

[blackrose]

My roof is very curved so just resting poles on the roof would mean they have to sit in the gutter of the integral handrail which isn't ideal.

 

Likewise, any racks sitting on wooden doorstops under their own weight, would just end up in the gutter or in the water after a storm.

Edited January 16, 2015 by blackrose

[ditchcrawler]

We don't have any, the pole and plank just rest on the roof....

In our case the plank is Decking on an alloy ladder, The 4 door stops are attached to that ans the poles lay on top of the ladder.

[Kendal]

A word of advice blackrose if you are going to drill and tap the roof. I fitted a rack last year by drilling and bolting M5 SS countersunk bolts, and made the fatal mistake of marking all the hole positions then drilling and tapping them, before I fixed the rack in position. When I came to put the bolts in they didn't quite line up perfectly so I had a hell of a job to screw them all in. I ended up with a very slight leak and had to put clear silicone around the base. This stopped the leak but it's not ideal as the silicone will perish and need replacing.

 

If I did the job again, I would drill and fix just one corner bolt and then drill through the holes in the feet and into the roof before tapping each hole. The second hole would be through the opposite corner to stop the rack moving (if you get me). That way they should all line up perfectly.

[blackrose]

A word of advice blackrose if you are going to drill and tap the roof. I fitted a rack last year by drilling and bolting M5 SS countersunk bolts, and made the fatal mistake of marking all the hole positions then drilling and tapping them, before I fixed the rack in position. When I came to put the bolts in they didn't quite line up perfectly so I had a hell of a job to screw them all in. I ended up with a very slight leak and had to put clear silicone around the base. This stopped the leak but it's not ideal as the silicone will perish and need replacing.

 

If I did the job again, I would drill and fix just one corner bolt and then drill through the holes in the feet and into the roof before tapping each hole. The second hole would be through the opposite corner to stop the rack moving (if you get me). That way they should all line up perfectly.

 

Thanks, I normally fit one screw loosely and then mark the other holes when I do these things. Also I don't use silicone for anything external. I bed in fittings and seal threads with a PU adhesive/sealant like Marineflex or Stixall. They don't perish like silicone.

 

http://www.marinemastics.com/marine-flex.html

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p60981?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=6TtQW0GL&pcrid=46334921423&gclid=Cj0KEQiAiuOlBRCU-8D6idaPz_UBEiQA

Edited January 16, 2015 by blackrose

[Dinz]

Mount the ropes nearer the edge?

Fit cleat to roof edge.

Has worked for me the past few years.

[Kendal]

 

Thanks, I normally fit one screw loosely and then mark the other holes when I do these things. Also I don't use silicone, I bed in fittings and seal threads with a PU sealant like Marineflex or Stixall. They don't perish.

Sorry, I hope you don't think I was trying to teach you to suck eggs. You've clearly done it before, it's just me that's the DIY disaster

[blackrose]

Sorry, I hope you don't think I was trying to teach you to suck eggs. You've clearly done it before, it's just me that's the DIY disaster

 

No, I've made plenty of mistakes too and learned from my experiences...

[Keeping Up]

Aren't the poles more useful when they are within reach?

[ditchcrawler]

Aren't the poles more useful when they are within reach?

I have one just laying on the roof near the slide.

[blackrose]

Aren't the poles more useful when they are within reach?

 

Not really. To be honest I hardly ever use them, and if I do need them I have to leave the tiller anyway to reach them in their current position.

 

As a single-hander getting up onto the roof is something I do regularly and I've got quite proficient at stopping the boat, leaving the helm and getting up onto the roof to grab things like tyre fenders and bow ropes.

 

I can't think of too many situations where I'd need to use a pole while the boat is moving. That actually sounds like it would be more dangerous than useful.

 

Edit: Although I suppose a short boat hook is handy to have nearby if you drop something (that floats) into the water.

Edited January 16, 2015 by blackrose

[Wild Is The Wind]

Hope its ok to ask here, ive been searching the forum and it brought me to this thread. I noticed a little blackened area on the oak lining inside where the horn is fitted to the roof. A black rubbery seal has been used and its obviously started to perish but i cant see any rust. Ive ordered some Marine Flex and wondered if its just a case of remove old seal and replace, or are there any other tips to make sure we've done a proper job? Thanks in advance for any replies.