Jump to content

Alternator problems .....continued


chubby

Featured Posts

Cheers Pete

 

Yes . The wiring look connects the alt lamp connection with bullet connector . I pull these apart & put the end of the test lamp to connect at back of alt .

 

I just redone the test . No test lamp pulsing after 15 minutes of engine running . SOC 100 . Lights had been for 10 mins prior to retest . No lights were on during retest . No solar input at present .

 

The goalposts keep moving .

 

I think tomorrow im going to have to fit the 4w bulb & ive got to wait & see what happens . The pulsing bulb is a complete mystery , but once a load is applied onto the domestic batts it stops .

 

Cheers again

 

Yeah that makes some sense, having the lights on meant the batts take a little charge, enough to keep the alt excited.

 

If the buzzer and warning light pulses in future, even with the new higher wattage bulb, maybe just switch something on while the eng is running, to keep them off.

 

ETA: Sorry to keep going on, but it'd probably make things a lot easier if you had a clamp meter, then you could see what's going on in terms of charge current.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A question if i may .

If the alternator puts out 14.3 volts ( read on multimeter at domestic batt terminals ) does this mean that it goes into the battery ? Or , when " full " can they / will they effectively shut the door on the incoming charge voltage ?

cheers

The voltage from the alternator is like a pressure. When the batteries are low, the higher "pressure" from the alternator causes charging current to flow into the batteries. As the batteries fill up, their own "pressure" increases so with less difference in "pressure", less current flows. Eventually when the batteries are full, their own pressure matches the alternator's pressure, there is no more pressure difference and no more current flows (well, virtually none). So 14.3v into fully charged batteries will result in virtually no current flow and is this harmless to the batteries unless sustained for a very long time (weeks).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers guys

 

Clampmeters & other gizmos will be bought in time & i hope one day to have atleast a grasp on all this stuff but its just too difficult right now . My feet don t touch floor at the moment as im busy with so much stuff & i just cannot dedicate time to learning the science , its too difficult & doesn t sink in .

 

When the bulb pulses , the alternator doesn t un excite , it continues pushing out 14. 2 - 14.3 V .

 

Nick ,

So if i read 14.3 V at the battery terminals when the alternator is running this is just " confirming " that 14.3 V is exiting the alternator & not necesarily that 14.3 V is going into the battery . Whether it goes into the battery or not is dependant on the batteries ability to accept the 14.3 V according to if its " full " or " partially drained " .

Once full the battery no longer accepts the charge current , even tho the alternator continues to deliver it ?

 

Blimey , time for tea & paracetemol !

 

cheers

 

ETA : Nick , your explanations are very good . Using terms like " pressure " , dispenses with the need to understand the science . I can " visualise " what you mean, at least i think i can .

Edited by chubby
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im currently retesting

 

I have reconnected the small 2.3 w bulb in the voltmeter lamp socket .

Engine on , quick rev to 1100 , back to idle .

 

Ran for 5 + mins fine . No lamps , buzzers & 14.2 from domestic alternator .

Then , weakly at first , the buzzer sounds & lamp comes on . Not pulsing but on . Voltmeter readings drop from 14.2 to 12.9 /13 V

 

If i then switch on a cabin lamp , the bulb & buzzer cease & Voltage at batts increase again to 14.2 V Cabin lamp off & the buzzer & warning lamp return .

 

This occurs consistantly .

I don t get it . At all . But it may be that i need a cabin lamp on , or another drawon the batts to prevent the alternator shutting down . But i can get charge into my batts .

 

Cabin light on now . Engine & alternator have been running fine for 20 minutes

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Right, sorted. Both warning lamps were bean-sized 2W bulbs. Got replacements, same fitting, at 4W. Direct swap, now both alternators fire up at idle!

 

Brilliant chaps. Now that I know about greenies, I shall go back up this thread and issue a couple for this idea!

Here's one greenie

I've now run out of greenies (just one per day?) but this'll get one

 

And this post will get a greenie around Wednesday!

 

And one here around Thursday!

 

Is this 'proper' use of greenies? That's 4, spent on an excellent solution to my query, plus one to MtB, spent during a thinly-disguised attempted robbery!!

 

Hello, do happen to know the bulb type, I have 1.2w bulb in my Barrus Shire warning lamp and would like to try a larger bulb but can't find the same type online.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Hello, do happen to know the bulb type, I have 1.2w bulb in my Barrus Shire warning lamp and would like to try a larger bulb but can't find the same type online.

 

Thanks

 

I'll have a look tomorrow. I have to pull the panel out to take a look, and it's already after Merl O'Clock!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.