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p6rob

Wiring diagram for Eberspacher Hydronic II-H D5Z-H

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Hi,

 

As winter approaches I'm determined to get a working diesel heating system, so rather than mess about with 2nd hand units (I've bought two which both have problems), some months ago I took the plunge and bought a brand new, unboxed Hydronic II-H D5Z-H heater off ebay.

Since then I've bought both a fuel pump and a non-eberspacher circulation pump and the correct wiring plug. The problem is, I've looked high and low and cannot find mention of this model heater on the Espar or Eberspacher websites, no manual came with the unit and I can't find one online so I'm struggling to work out what wire does what. It seems they've changed colour codes from green to blue.

From what little I can find on the internet, this heater gets fitted to certain Skoda and Lexus' as a pre-heater. There are a couple of installation manuals but I can't fathom out the wiring instructions in them.

 

So, has anyone got a wiring diagram for the Eberspacher Hydronic II-H D5Z-H they could send me a copy off please.

I almost succumbed to firing up the stove last night, it's only the thought of regulating it that put me off.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Rob

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Is this what you're looking for?

 

file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/dwhite62/My%20Documents/Downloads/hg_201909050000_tech_EN_14088%20(3).pdf

 

They were fitted to Jaguar X-types and several other cars. If you work at JLR (guess from P6 & Soilhull) try the HEVAC team who should have details.

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Is this what you're looking for?

 

file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/dwhite62/My%20Documents/Downloads/hg_201909050000_tech_EN_14088%20(3).pdf

 

They were fitted to Jaguar X-types and several other cars. If you work at JLR (guess from P6 & Soilhull) try the HEVAC team who should have details.

Hi Chalky, you're right about the P6 and Solihull but I don't work for JLR. Thanks though I can ask around.

The link you supplied is to a copy of the pdf on your hard drive. I've got the same one and the wiring colours don't match. Obtaining information about this model of eber is a bit of a pain in the butt!

 

Carwood are Eberspacher agents: http://www.carwood.co.uk/ with offices in B'ham and Coventry.

 

Any help?

Thanks Ray, I'll get in touch with them.

 

Rob

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Hello Rob,

I am in the same situation. Bought a new D5z-H off Ebay but got no wiring diagrams even after hours of searching on the internet.

Did You find / get any diagram?

Is Your heater up and running now?

Would be very happy if You or anyone could send any info to my mail tajjson@gmail.com

 

Cheers,

Thomas from Sweden

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Hi Thomas,

 

No still not got this one working. Think I may have blown the circuit board while trying to blindly get it going by poking +12v on every wire.

I've since learnt quite a lot about this heater. I suspect it really needs the proper Easystart timer to make it work.

 

I got the wiring connector on ebay from http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/angliapostalparts2012/, but they seem to have closed their ebay shop for the following week.

 

Here's what I think I've figured out from looking at wiring diagrams for other new models of Eberspacher:

 

Red: +12v

Brown: -ve

Black/Red: Relay control for vehicle van

Green: fuel pump +ve

Blue/white: Easystart on signal and diagnostics

Blue: D+ (whatever that means) Combined with yellow will switch heater on in Auxiliary heater mode.

Yellow: Think this should switch the heater on in (car/van) pre-heat mode.

Blue/Yellow: not connected.

 

The coolant pump is not directly powered by this Eberspacher, so needs it's own 12v feed, this could be via the Relay control for vehicle van.

 

By putting a certain search term into google I did find a couple of manuals for installing the D5Z-H into a Lexus and another car, which I forget the make and model of. The manuals were in foreign and I couldn't really follow them at the time, attempts to find them again on google have failed. They would be really useful now.

 

Here's a link to the manual I've based most of the above assumptions on: link Sorry it's a google redirect link, can't seem to make a direct connection.

 

I'm still going to get an Easystart timer as they also include an interface to the diagnostics so I might get my one working yet. In the mean time, other projects are taking too much time and money.

 

Good luck

 

Rob

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Just found the Lexus install pdf. It's not any help for wiring. Heater sockets appear to be built in to the Lexus loom, although if my skim reading of a technical manual, written in a language I don't understand is correct, it seems to confirm using the Easystart timer is a necessity.

 

http://soeauto.ee/wp-content/uploads/taienduskomplekt-lexus-is220-komplekt-r-seadmega-einbaus_248197000000_einbaus_de_10132.pdf

 

Rob

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I know that hindsight is a wonderful thing, but, would it not have been worth buying a new one, from an eber dealer (in the UK) so it came with the correct parts and manuals for your installation, and a contact to talk to.

 

Has the hassle and the now 'blowing of the circuit board' been worth the £XX savings you made by buying on ebay ?

 

In you initial post (in August) you said :

 

As winter approaches I'm determined to get a working diesel heating system, so rather than mess about with 2nd hand units (I've bought two which both have problems), some months ago I took the plunge and bought a brand new, unboxed Hydronic II-H D5Z-H heater off ebay.

 

It is now December and you still do not have a heating system.

 

Sometimes its worth spending the money needed to get what you want.

 

Let me be the first to hope you have a 'Warm & Merry Christmas'.

Edited by Alan de Enfield

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Thanks Alan.

 

For context: I bought a thirty year old Lotus at about the same time, it's been off the road for the last nine years. It's taken three months longer and five times as much money as I'd budgeted So, as winter beckons... ...it's almost ready to become my daily driver.

 

So, in answer to you question. No, I don't think.laugh.png

 

Rob

Edited by p6rob

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If it's anything like the Webasto Themo Tops fitted to JLR (and many other vehicles) it may well be controlled by the vehicle's bus rather than a simple +12vDc signal, many bespoke ECUs are made fror manufacturers, bunging 12v+DC on a terminal that's expecting a can bus command may also be what blew the ECU.

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Just a quick follow up.

Following on from the recent discussions I decided to bite the bullet and buy the proper timer. It's taken a bit of faffing but, I'm pleased to say my Eberspacher D5Z-H is now working. I've got to sort the plumbing out and tidy the wiring up, but fundamentally, it works. Amazing what a difference getting the right bits makes!

 

For future reference if anyone needs it:

 

Wiring is

Red 12v +ve

Brown -ve

Blue/white To timer blue/white

Green Fuel pump +ve

The timer also needs +ve and -ve connections.

 

You need to rig up an external circulation pump. I got mine from a scrap Audi S3.

 

If you haven't already bought it, you need an eberspacher fuel pump too.

 

If only it wasn't so cold and dark outside, I'd finish the job off now.

 

The timer is listed on ebay as:

EBERSPACHER EasyStart T - 7 day timer (+ diagnostics) | 221000328800

Fuel pump is one of the 3.1 - 5kw ones.

 

Rob

 

PS

Sorry Matty, I've spent the solar money again!

Edited by p6rob

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Yep, that timer gives the bus signal rather than a simple +12v so will work with most Eber vehicle heaters.

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What's the best way to control the circulation pump so that it goes on and off with the Eber?

The ECU should control that automatically when wired in.

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The ECU should control that automatically when wired in.

 

I beg your pardon. I should have said that I have the D5Z-F, which relies on the vehicle's circulation pump.

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I beg your pardon. I should have said that I have the D5Z-F, which relies on the vehicle's circulation pump.

You will need to make sure the pump runs immediately the heater starts, also it will need to continue to run until the coolant has reduced the heat exchanger temperature to an acceptable level and itself reduced to a low level. A thermostat arrangement coupled to a relay triggered by the heater go signal will be needed. What you have is designated an additional or

auxiliary heater, i.e. not used for parking or pre heating but to get the modern diesel up to temp quickly in cold weather and then cut out. I have known people who have done this sort of thing before and wound up paying more than a proper kit by the time they had finished. Often they will not run without a signal that tells them the outside temperature is 5 deg or less but the right timer should overcome that issue.

This youtube video may be of some assistance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pArUpXRufHk

Edited by NMEA

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At the moment. I'm testing mine with a simple on off switch.

Switch on coolant pump.

Switch on Eberspacher

Problem is remembering to turn off the coolant pump after the eberspacher completes it's cycle.

 

Once the system is installed and working happily, I'll see if it can be turned on and off via the black/red wire and a relay.

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At the moment. I'm testing mine with a simple on off switch.

Switch on coolant pump.

Switch on Eberspacher

Problem is remembering to turn off the coolant pump after the eberspacher completes it's cycle.

 

Once the system is installed and working happily, I'll see if it can be turned on and off via the black/red wire and a relay.

 

Got it in one!

 

This is what I have been doing for months. Having said that I would never use an Eber again, I got this one for peanuts and it works fine - except for the reliance on my unreliable memory.

 

What actually happens during the shut-down cycle? I had assumed that the fan works, but the fuel is shut off, so there is no combustion. If that is the case, is there any reason to keep the circulation pump going?

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is there any reason to keep the circulation pump going?

See my last post, the latent heat in the heat exchanger has to be removed and that is done by continuing to run the circulation pump, the very same reason why they should be connected with no switch between them and the battery, to prevent accidental stopping in full flight.

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Just a quick follow up.

Following on from the recent discussions I decided to bite the bullet and buy the proper timer. It's taken a bit of faffing but, I'm pleased to say my Eberspacher D5Z-H is now working. I've got to sort the plumbing out and tidy the wiring up, but fundamentally, it works. Amazing what a difference getting the right bits makes!

 

For future reference if anyone needs it:

 

Wiring is

Red 12v +ve

Brown -ve

Blue/white To timer blue/white

Green Fuel pump +ve

The timer also needs +ve and -ve connections.

 

You need to rig up an external circulation pump. I got mine from a scrap Audi S3.

 

If you haven't already bought it, you need an eberspacher fuel pump too.

 

If only it wasn't so cold and dark outside, I'd finish the job off now.

 

The timer is listed on ebay as:

EBERSPACHER EasyStart T - 7 day timer (+ diagnostics) | 221000328800

Fuel pump is one of the 3.1 - 5kw ones.

 

Rob

 

PS

Sorry Matty, I've spent the solar money again!

Hi Rob,

Thought i would post on here seeing as its more in keeping with the topic than it was with the gsm thing.

Bought an eber same as your and wired it to the easystart same way as you have ... and.... nothing!

Just says "int" and then "no signal".. same as it was doing with the other eber i had.

though i now realise that you have an easystart T , the one i have is an easystart timer no. 22 1000 34 15 00

thought an easystart t and an easystart timer was the same thing, appears they are different(not sure in what way as mine says its for and hydronic ll heater.

 

Wondered if anyone would know how to run a hydronic ll-H (D5Z-H) heater off an easystart timer?

plug pin out is ; pin1=brown- ,pin2=green fuel pump, pin3=blue ,pin4=blue/white ,pin5=red+ ,pin6=black/red, pin7=blue/yellow ,pin8=yellow

 

regards

steve

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Oh bloomin' 'eck you're having some fun and games!

 

By memory:

 

Brown = Battery -ve. Red = +12v. Green - fuel pump (Need a connection to brown on the other pin). Blue/White - Easystart Blue/White

As well as the blue white connection, the easy start needs a fused +12v connection on the red and brown goes to -ve.

Then you need to power the circulation pump. I've still not had time/ inclination to sort out automating it, so, I have a switch in the cabin which energises a relay, which then powers the pump (all fused appropriately).

 

I'll double check the actual wiring on my boat later. Not sure if it'll be today as I'm off to see my dad in hospital after work.

 

By memory I had a few teething problems with getting the timer to communicate. It turned out one of the pins in the timer connection wasn't making good contact because I hadn't fully pushed it into the receptacle. Also, can't remember if I had to tell the timer what sort of heater it was initially, though, I suspect not, as I've disconnected the power several times since and not had to re-enter anything other than the correct time since. I could be wrong but don't think there's any NVRAM in the timer to store information between power cycles.

 

With the correct wiring and some fuel it should be enough to get your eber to fire up.

 

Rob

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fun and games...yea tell me about it!... think i read somewhere on one of the posts about people ending up spending more money trying to get these car heaters working than it would of cost them to buy the proper kit......that thought is beginning to dawn on me!

 

Either way, in to deep now to turn back , just have to soldier on and hope to get it sorted , probably by summer at this rate lol!

 

Yea tried the wiring sequence you describe rob, but think the problem is as i said my controller is an easystart timer no. 22 1000 34 15 00 , as opposed to the one you used which i now realise was an easystart T no. 22 1000 32 88 00

 

Im not sure what the difference is between to two timers(apart from cosmetic) been trying to look up technical spec to compare them, but im beginning to wonder if the easystart T sends out bus signals (which I believe these heaters need in order to activate) and maybe the easystart timer which I have doesn,t send out bus signals.

 

The controller I have states its for hydronic ll heater but doesnt list the particular model we have. Does the easystart T list our model of heater rob?

 

off to do a bit more digging about before i end up throwing even more good money after bad me thinks.

Hope your dad gets well soon mate

 

Steve

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fun and games...yea tell me about it!... think i read somewhere on one of the posts about people ending up spending more money trying to get these car heaters working than it would of cost them to buy the proper kit......that thought is beginning to dawn on me!

 

Either way, in to deep now to turn back , just have to soldier on and hope to get it sorted , probably by summer at this rate lol!

 

Yea tried the wiring sequence you describe rob, but think the problem is as i said my controller is an easystart timer no. 22 1000 34 15 00 , as opposed to the one you used which i now realise was an easystart T no. 22 1000 32 88 00

 

Im not sure what the difference is between to two timers(apart from cosmetic) been trying to look up technical spec to compare them, but im beginning to wonder if the easystart T sends out bus signals (which I believe these heaters need in order to activate) and maybe the easystart timer which I have doesn,t send out bus signals.

 

The controller I have states its for hydronic ll heater but doesnt list the particular model we have. Does the easystart T list our model of heater rob?

 

off to do a bit more digging about before i end up throwing even more good money after bad me thinks.

Hope your dad gets well soon mate

 

Steve

No. Just looked at teh online version of the easystart manual and it doesn't list hydronic II or the correct model heater, though I think the paper manual does mention hydronic II. Having looked at your timer's online manual, there are several wiring differences, eg yours seems to need grey/white connecting to ignition live., I'm guessing this could be connected to the same permanant 12v+ as red on a boat, whether that'll help or not is another matter though. I reckon you'll crack it soon and it'll be something obvious when you spot it. Eg. is the fuse ok at the heater end?

 

I don't mind swapping timers with you for testing purposes if you don't crack it beforehand. Just let me know and we can arrange an exchange by post.

Dad's feeling more comfortable than he was which is a relief, thanks.

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