MUCKY OLD FLUES

[hardy scot]

I read with interest the article in q & a of canal boat mag on Mucky old flues ( FEB 2012 ),Page 85 & we have the same problem of condensation/tar sepping between outer joints on to the roof. Question is their any solutions or chemical i can purchase to remove this wet / runny tar sunstance from the roof. Would welcome members handy tips...

 

 

 

 

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[Donald Gilchrist]

Bar keepers friend, is great for getting it off roofs and sides. Recently only found it in Sainsburys.

[Grace and Favour]

Current wet/sticky deposits can be removed with a solvent such as methylated spirit / surgical spirit

 

Old staining will require removal with an abrasive - Bar keepers friend / jif / Brasso / Solvol Autosol etc etc etc

(just be aware abrasive cleaners will remove paintwork too - - so be careful!

 

 

 

Then, go get yourself a twin-wall chimney - - and insulate the gap with rockwool

 

 

You know it makes sense

[cazberry]

Current wet/sticky deposits can be removed with a solvent such as methylated spirit / surgical spirit

 

Old staining will require removal with an abrasive - Bar keepers friend / jif / Brasso / Solvol Autosol etc etc etc

(just be aware abrasive cleaners will remove paintwork too - - so be careful!

 

 

 

Then, go get yourself a twin-wall chimney - - and insulate the gap with rockwool

 

 

You know it makes sense

I have the tar problem as well...aleady have a double-skin chimney....do you mean stick the rockwool in chimney between the skins??

[bizzard]

Or simply replace the overlapping type chimney by finding a bit of tube that just fits inside the collars orifice and seal around with silicon,cut off at a height that it will pass under any bridge your likely to encounter.If just stuck in about an inch with flexible silicon it will knock over anyway causing no damage.Dead cheap to do and no more mess. Always put dry fuel on your stove too as wet fuel contributes greatly to this creosotey mess.

[sheriff]

I do the same as bizzard mentioned after the same problem....after winter remove chimney ..silicone back on next winter

Edited January 16, 2012 by sheriff

[Dominic M]

Don't burn unseasoned wood for one - and that includes any wood not kept dry for at least a year, which is impossible for a cruising narrow boat. The acidic (or are they alkaline?) tarry deposits etch into the paintwork. Over the years, it is far cheaper to burn coal rather than wreck your paintwork.

 

I've said this before and been criticised for it, but I see boats all the time with stacks of damp wood on the roof. The damage that does to the paintwork and the steelwork is not cheap, and I think it is a false economy.

[nicknorman]

I have the tar problem as well...aleady have a double-skin chimney....do you mean stick the rockwool in chimney between the skins??

We bought a double skinned chimney but were disappointed to find tar still leaked out overnight. The solution for us was kindly provided by someone on here - we rolled up some kitchen foil into a sausage shape and wrapped it round and into the gap between inner and outer skin of the chimney. Whilst not being airtight (and probably Rockwell would be better if you have some to hand) it severely restricts the circulation of hot moist gas into the cavity between inner and cold outer skins, eliminating condensate and tar running down the outside of the collar. For us it has completely fixed the problem of goo running down onto the roof following cold nights with stove ticking over.

[sheriff]

We bought a double skinned chimney but were disappointed to find tar still leaked out overnight. The solution for us was kindly provided by someone on here - we rolled up some kitchen foil into a sausage shape and wrapped it round and into the gap between inner and outer skin of the chimney. Whilst not being airtight (and probably Rockwell would be better if you have some to hand) it severely restricts the circulation of hot moist gas into the cavity between inner and cold outer skins, eliminating condensate and tar running down the outside of the collar. For us it has completely fixed the problem of goo running down onto the roof following cold nights with stove ticking over.

I shall try that for a little while from tomorrow and also then the rockwell.instead of the silicone thing,still have a touch now and again

 

Don't burn unseasoned wood for one - and that includes any wood not kept dry for at least a year, which is impossible for a cruising narrow boat. The acidic (or are they alkaline?) tarry deposits etch into the paintwork. Over the years, it is far cheaper to burn coal rather than wreck your paintwork.

 

I've said this before and been criticised for it, but I see boats all the time with stacks of damp wood on the roof. The damage that does to the paintwork and the steelwork is not cheap, and I think it is a false economy.

agree false economy...

[cazberry]

I'll try the foil sausage thingy first too!

Chimney is a swine to get off at the moment though...probably stuck fast with tar...yuck.

[pete23]

i had the prob of tar running down the side of me vessel, and had a inner liner aswell.

 

i tried the fill it we rock wall option and all i ended up with was a soggy mess off rain soaked rock wall and still running tar.

 

now ive got a inner liner that sits about a inch higher than the outer, never had a prob with this set up at all.

[Theo]

I have a chimney liner which is not attached to the decorative outer bit. It is springy and not welded into a tube so I can flex it to fit inside the roof casting. With the air gap between this and the outer there is little condensation and any that does form runs down inside the chimney where is is evaporated off once the stove gets hot enough.

 

Works a treat!

 

Nick

Edited January 16, 2012 by Theo

[ex-member200218]

Following Dominic M's comment; it is unseasoned wood that can cause it but (now at my age being a bit experienced with open/woodburners/multifuelers) I was warned a long time ago that using too much Pine wood can cause a tar problem. This can be remedied, or prevented from the outset, by combining it with coal (and/or oak) for future reference (which should provide longer burning and better economy in the long run). However, if you have a tarred up flu it is possible to 'burn' it off by setting fire to it which simply means 'roar' it up for a while when you first set it. It needs to get really hot! I know it sounds dangerous on a boat etc. but its a fairly standard and cheap way of sorting a flu problem of this nature. Your choice at the end of the day; just watch it closely and have a few buckets of water standing by :-) Can't comment on the paintwork problem tho, sorry.

[Mac of Cygnet]

However, if you have a tarred up flu it is possible to 'burn' it off by setting fire to it which simply means 'roar' it up for a while when you first set it. It needs to get really hot! I know it sounds dangerous on a boat etc. but its a fairly standard and cheap way of sorting a flu problem of this nature. Your choice at the end of the day; just watch it closely and have a few buckets of water standing by :-) Can't comment on the paintwork problem tho, sorry.

 

Just don't do it upwind of any boats or anyone else who may sue you for ruining their paintwork or even setting fire to their property due to the lumps of soot and sparks which will come rushing out. Or even your paintwork or property for that matter.

[The Bagdad Boatman (waits)]

I noticed at weekend that my boatman's oven chimney was weeping tar burning phunicite before it got really hot, so low heat equals condensation within the chimney on a cold day.

[bizzard]

Following Dominic M's comment; it is unseasoned wood that can cause it but (now at my age being a bit experienced with open/woodburners/multifuelers) I was warned a long time ago that using too much Pine wood can cause a tar problem. This can be remedied, or prevented from the outset, by combining it with coal (and/or oak) for future reference (which should provide longer burning and better economy in the long run). However, if you have a tarred up flu it is possible to 'burn' it off by setting fire to it which simply means 'roar' it up for a while when you first set it. It needs to get really hot! I know it sounds dangerous on a boat etc. but its a fairly standard and cheap way of sorting a flu problem of this nature. Your choice at the end of the day; just watch it closely and have a few buckets of water standing by :-) Can't comment on the paintwork problem tho, sorry.

To shift this tarry clag its better and safer to let the fire out and so let the flu go cold,this causes the flu metal to contract slightly disturbing the clags grip which has by becoming cold lost its gooyness and become brittle, this by the use of a wire brush lashed to a stick and run hard up and down the flu from the outside will shift every scrap of it quickly.

[hardy scot]

Thanks to all for the very useful information

[ChimneyChain]

The only thing we've used is a pipe that sits inside the flue. We've done that for 15 odd years now and never experienced any tar down the side of boat or roof. It cant go any where except back down the flue. As for cleaning tar or any thing else come to think of it i use spray "brake cleaner" absolutely fantastic stuff try it you won't be disappointed, but at 3.99 a can it can become expensive luckily for me we've got shed loads of it a work.

 

Darren

[Wiff]

I have this problem on my new boat, tried to clean it off but no joy. Have now purchased a flue brush to give the system a damn good clean but think I will need to remove the chimney and have a look at how I can fix the problem. I did try to remove the chimney but I suspect it is rusted into place. Is there a knack to removing them or is it a case of brute force and ignorance? I am new to the joys of owning a narrowboat so I do ask silly questions at times!

[Proper Job]

Gentle 'tapping' with the ball of your hand from side to side usually works, also rotate the angle that you 'tap' it at.

 

I usually seal the gap between in the ineer and outer skins of chimneys with fire grade expanding foam. Put a plaistic bag over the collar, squirt the foam in to the gap and plonk the chimney on the collar. Leave it to set. Remove the chimney, remove the plasic bag.

 

Don't forget the plastic bag. It stops the foam cementing the chimney to the collar