Painting a Narrow Boat DIY

[Jayen4]

Well,when I've brush painted trucks,I've always used Dulux '383 line' polyurethane. That's specifically for trucks. You can get any colour you want in that range if they can find the relevant 'recipe' from the original type of paint. I found that if your brush technique is good,then you end up with a beautiful finish as it flows so well. Better than spraying even and it has more 'body' if brushed on. I would imaging that if you thinned it very slightly,you could apply it with the right type of roller,because as I've said,it does flow well. It also retains its shine well and lasts a long time...... (it did on the trucks anyway.)

My two pennorth for what its worth !

[real_vibes]

My boat is in red oxide currently. Its been recently sanded down any where flakes where showing and a couple of fresh coats of red oxide over the top the old.

 

Whats the most suitable next step for a boat currently painted with this type of primer? Ideally id like to get the boat all in one colour with a gloss finish. The budget only allows a home-job, and the current red oxide will be easily improved upon.

[romarni123]

Line your paint trays with silverfoil then throw the foil away saves buying new trays

[Traveller]

Lots of good advice here. I am re-opening an old thread, but one question, we need to repaint the decks on our narrowboat. I had originally thought of using something like Smoothrite or Hammerite but have heard that the former never really sets hard - or takes a very long time to do so. Hammerite I am not so keen on because of the "hammer" finish but others may have a good experience of it. This all got me wondering wether bitumen will provide a robust enough surface for the side decks. Certainly it will make touch ups easy.

Any ideas?

 

Thanks

[Grace and Favour]

I'd suggest that bitumen is quite unsuitable, it will soften in warm weather, (think of newly surfaced roads in summer)

 

We use the same paint as on our superstructure - but I s'pose you could also consider a good bilge paint (?)

[Traveller]

I take your point G&F but I have seen many boats where the decks are painted that way :-)

[frangar]

I second G & F.....don't even think of using bitumen on decks unless you like making a mess and being stuck to your boat! I'm not keen on Hammerite either....it's a pain if you need to overcoat it.

 

We use Craftmaster raddle red but epifaines also do a similar matt coating which makes it easy to clean but antislip too.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[Traveller]

That sounds like a sensible way forward, Gareth. Thanks.

[onionbargee]

owatrol is the magic ingredient.

 

I think the expensive boat enamels are designed for expert painters, and would be a waste of money for an average DIY job. Question is do you want a shiny paint job that needs welding goggles to look at or something cheap and quick. Preparation is the key anyhow, whatever you do.

 

Flag ( Toolstation ) quick drying red oxide, and rust o leum machinery paint over. Job done.

[Neil2]

Crikey do you guys ever do any cruising?

 

I've had extensive conversations with people who paint boats professionally and I know it's been emphasised on this thread but it really is all about preparation. I could never get these guys to talk about different makes of paint because they know it doesn't matter a great deal if you get the surface preparation right and you have the patience to do the job properly. It's why the cost of having a boat done by a real pro is eye wateringly expensive.

[matty40s]

Lots of good advice here. One question, we need to repaint the decks on our narrowboat. I had originally thought of using something like Smoothrite or Hammerite but have heard that the former never really sets hard - or takes a very long time to do so. Hammerite I am not so keen on because of the "hammer" finish but others may have a good experience of it. This all got me wondering wether bitumen will provide a robust enough surface for the side decks. Certainly it will make touch ups easy.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks

I have blacked a boat this week with Rylards and the customer insisted on having the blacking up the gunnels and over the walkways too. They were advised against it by everyone. Come Summer they will regret it as they walk bitumen over the front and back decks and into the cabin.

Danboline is a sturdy deck and bilge paint - can withstand foot traffic and weather well.

[Pykebird]

When I re did my boat last year, I was lucky to have several boat painters on site who gave me tips as mentioned above. It seemed like I was prepping for years and was advised to stop obsessing as she is around 30 years old and an ex hire boat. Unless she was done by a "professional", she would never look like new! I also bribed a friend in to help with the prep.

So I did my best, treated any rust areas and avoid looking at any of the "dodgy" bits. I also chose a bright colour to draw your eyes away from any obvious problems, and did not use a gloss paint.

She is not to everyone's taste but certainly looks smarter now than when I started.

[Neil2]

Just a thought, bearing in mind you only really need a nice shiny finish on the cabin sides, what about vinyl wrapping? There have been threads in the past on this and IIRC the cost is considerably less than professional painting.

[Traveller]

Neil2, I think that might be what Richardsons (of Norfolk Broads fame) used to "decorate" their awful (imo) pirate themed hire boat.

 

That said, I have no idea what vinyl wrapping actually is!

[Neil2]

Neil2, I think that might be what Richardsons (of Norfolk Broads fame) used to "decorate" their awful (imo) pirate themed hire boat.

 

That said, I have no idea what vinyl wrapping actually is!

I used to think it was a sort of retro hip-hop

[thorne lass]

owatrol is the magic ingredient.

 

I think the expensive boat enamels are designed for expert painters, and would be a waste of money for an average DIY job. Question is do you want a shiny paint job that needs welding goggles to look at or something cheap and quick. Preparation is the key anyhow, whatever you do.

 

Flag ( Toolstation ) quick drying red oxide, and rust o leum machinery paint over. Job done.

 

Another vote for Owatrol, magic stuff especially if painting steel in hot weather.

 

When we ran hire boats we used Dulux Trade gloss with excellent durable high quality results. I now use Rustoleum throughout since whilst (if the paint finish is professional) the initial gloss is perhaps not so good, Rustoleum seems to resist fading and chalking much better. If applied by a less experienced person then the slightly lower gloss will not be a problem.

 

It is also supposedly self priming and due to time constraints and size of boat we often get reduced to slapping on a quick coat to tidy up and don't use primer or multiple coats, with no adverse results.

 

Definitely do not waste money on yachty pants. If you don't like Rustoleum (and I can't think why you shouldn't!) then use Dulux Trade.

 

Alan's comments re. the permeability of primer are absolutely correct. If the boat has sat outside in almost any primer for any length of time it would be best to strip it back to the metal.

[David Mack]

 

Definitely do not waste money on yachty pants.

Completely agree. Its M&S underwear for me!

[i love my narrowboat]

Great topic, lots of interesting opinions. We are painting our boat this year after the kitchen is finished, will definitely be taking some advice from this thread..thanks

[Kazzgirl]

I use p40 body filler, but first sand down to steel- put rust killer on, you can't skimp on this one.! use it on all the roof if you can..then when dry, say after 2 hours... put isopan p40 down in thin layers.. press down hard and don't use a lot.. small amounts are better unless you know what your doing.. then when hard, say 10 mins, rub with 140/160 grade wet an dry to smooth finish.. look for small holes and if found, which you will find! use a little more p40 to get that perfect smooth finish..

[bag 'o' bones]

Line your paint trays with silverfoil then throw the foil away saves buying new trays

Now that is an excellent idea - have a greeny

[Silebyman]

My boat was painted in Rylards as evidenced by the box of half used tins under the bed. So I continued with Rylards to maintain the colour scheme. Some colours (namely black) seemed easy to use, flowed out nicely etc. Other colours were a complete git to use - thick as syrup, skinning over before I had a chance to line it out etc.

 

Like many others I resorted to Owatrol which helped a bit, but only a bit - still a sod to use.

 

I repainted the roof last weekend, and as I was changing the colour slightly I gave Craftmaster a try.

 

What a difference - it works exactly how you would expect gloss to work, flows out nicely, allows you to blend it to the previously painted wet section.

 

I'm a convert.

 

Just need to try to find exact Craftmaster matches for the Rylards stuff.

 

No, before you ask - I don't work for them!

[Richard10002]

owatrol is the magic ingredient.

 

I think the expensive boat enamels are designed for expert painters, and would be a waste of money for an average DIY job. Question is do you want a shiny paint job that needs welding goggles to look at or something cheap and quick. Preparation is the key anyhow, whatever you do.

 

Flag ( Toolstation ) quick drying red oxide, and rust o leum machinery paint over. Job done.

 

Last year I used Hammerite on a stern band, International Toplac on the top part of the sides, International Deck paint on the gunnels deck bit, then Craftmaster on the roof handrails.

 

The deck paint with its rough texture is great, and I'm expecting it to last a long time. The Craftmaster red on the handrails is an amazing finish, and I will be using Craftmaster for all future bits that dont need the grittiness of deck paint.

 

Before painting the handrails I had discovered, and watched, all of the following videos, and paid great attention to them. This was when I decided to try Craftmaster, and when I bought the specialised types of sanding pads and discs.

 

http://www.johnbarnard.biz/tips-tricks-videos/

 

I didnt scabble back to bare metal, just rubbed down the old paint, undercoated, rubbed down, top coat, rub down. I think I did two coats of undercoat, and 2 coats of top coat.

 

I'll say it again, the result is amazing for DIY.

[Jim Batty]

... we need to repaint the decks on our narrowboat. I had originally thought of using something like Smoothrite or Hammerite but have heard that the former never really sets hard - or takes a very long time to do so. ...

 

 

 

Danboline is a sturdy deck and bilge paint - can withstand foot traffic and weather well.

 

Our front deck has lost much of its original (Mason) paint and gone rusty in patches. The rusty look has never really bothered me too much, and continual wear keeps the metal in good condition. Ultimately we will always be moving the anchor, deck chairs and bicycles around on it.

 

But recently I thought 'Ooh, it would look really nice with a flat colour again'. And I happen to have just bought a can of Fertan to deal with the engine compartment.

 

So, would the following work on the deck:

 

1) Fertan the entire deck

2a) Paint the entire deck in Danboline

or

2b) Paint the entire deck in Mason (which I also happen to have).*

 

* Would I need to prime the deck before painting with the Mason paint, or put it straight on over the Fertan?

[bigbadboat]

Hi Everyone, 

This thread is great and full of excellent tips but I now fear I may have too many good solutions and am stuck, so i'm going to describe my scenario and ask for your collective advice. I'll save the questions for the end. I'm a total boat painting amateur btw

I have a 1979 Hancock & Lane Norsman 40ft which i'm currently converting to live-aboard. The boat itself is in excellent condition for the age but the paint job is awful. Very faded, rusty as hell on the top, the touch up parts have been done in an entirely different shade of green to the existing paint... Just nasty. 

I want to repaint the boat... and do it quickly and reasonably cheaply. I can live with some imperfections but obviously want to do as good a job as can be done quickly. 

I figure i need to give the boat a good sanding first with an orbital sander or an angle-grinder with a wire brush attachment.  

Next, it will need priming, then undercoating, then I'd like to paint the boat Olive green, with a darker green for the side panels... 

My questions are:

 - Can all of this be done in less than a week? ie. starting sanding on a Friday evening and finish painting by the following Tuesday evening... allowing for drying times etc (weather permitting of course, I can probably round up a couple of assistants too). 

 - Can I do all this with my boat still in the water? I'm moored in a rural location (probably quite a few flying bugs about) on a wide canal so I can spin the boat round easy enough. I'd rather not take the boat out the water to paint. 

 - What sander/angle grinder should I buy? And what sandpaper/attachment? (links appreciated)

 - What primer/undercoat/paint should I buy? (again, links appreciated, bearing in mind cost, that i'm no pro at painting, quick drying preferred and i'm not too fussed about level of glossyness etc.)

 - Do i need a specific type of brushes/rollers? was thinking long bristle brushes (probably spend a few quid on them) and small foam rollers (i've always preferred foam when painting other stuff)

 - What else do i need to keep in mind? (Should I get some tarps to cover in the case of showers/ overnight? etc.)

That's about all i can think of right now... Any input hugely appreciated. Hope to do this in about 2 weeks time. 

Thanks

Simon

[Bewildered]

On 22 July 2016 at 10:25, bag 'o' bones said:

Now that is an excellent idea - have a greeny

Wow a greeny issued for a 6 year old post, but worth the wait I expect