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I have seen references to Zinga which is a Zinc preparation that is applied to the hull after shotblasting. If my boat, of say 50ft, needed reblacking would it make sense to have it Zinga coated? If not - why not? Has anyone any experience of having this done?

There have been a couple of postings that I found with the search function from 2007 which were interesting, has anyone any more recent experience?

 

Thanks in advance,

John

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I have seen references to Zinga which is a Zinc preparation that is applied to the hull after shotblasting. If my boat, of say 50ft, needed reblacking would it make sense to have it Zinga coated? If not - why not? Has anyone any experience of having this done?

There have been a couple of postings that I found with the search function from 2007 which were interesting, has anyone any more recent experience?

 

Thanks in advance,

John

 

:lol:

 

Hi John

No experience myself but I have good friends on their boat who had it done a few years ago and I beleive have been well impressed, they dont do forums but if you are interested pm me and I will ask them to get in touch with you if u wants first hand experience.

 

Cheers

 

Tim

Edited by mrsmelly
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:lol:

 

Hi John

No experience myself but I have good friends on their boat who had it done a few years ago and I beleive have been well impressed, they dont do forums but if you are interested pm me and I will ask them to get in touch with you if u wants first hand experience.

 

Cheers

 

Tim

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Hi John.

 

Had Zinga on my hull from new (5 years ago). I drydocked the boat 2 1/2 years ago to have the rudder worked on. Thought I would have it blacked

at the same time by the guys who run the dry dock. Their comments where that it did not realy need doing as there was absolutley no signs of any

corrosion. Thay jet washed it and it looked as good as new. I had the blacking done anyway. Thay said not to bring it back for annother 7 to 10 years.

I am a liveaboard and go out with the boat regulary so it gets a few scrapes but thay never go rusty. I cannot see any corrosion so am very happy. :lol: :lol:

 

 

Regards Tommyhol

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Thanks for the inputs! Looks like it will be worth looking at when the time comes.

Anyone know why galvanised steel is not used to start with? Surely it can't add much to the cost of a boat when constructed? Probably a lot less than adding Zinga to part of the hull later? Probably some reason that I cannot think of!

 

John

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Thanks for the inputs! Looks like it will be worth looking at when the time comes.

Anyone know why galvanised steel is not used to start with? Surely it can't add much to the cost of a boat when constructed? Probably a lot less than adding Zinga to part of the hull later? Probably some reason that I cannot think of!

 

John

 

Yes. It isn't available! You can't get galvanised steel in the thickness's that boats are made from.

 

 

Richard

 

That's before considering what happens when you weld it

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Yes. It isn't available! You can't get galvanised steel in the thickness's that boats are made from.

 

 

Richard

 

That's before considering what happens when you weld it

 

Really?! Why not? What thickness is available? What happens when welded - I thought that it just reduced the galvanising at the weld? Lots of questions - don't feel obliged to answer them :lol: , but I am interested.

John

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Thanks for the inputs! Looks like it will be worth looking at when the time comes.

Anyone know why galvanised steel is not used to start with? Surely it can't add much to the cost of a boat when constructed? Probably a lot less than adding Zinga to part of the hull later? Probably some reason that I cannot think of!

 

John

 

You'd need a big tank to dip a boat in (to galvanise it!)

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You'd need a big tank to dip a boat in (to galvanise it!)

 

:lol:

 

But if the boat is BUILT of galvanised steel each sheet that is used is relatively small isn't it?

John

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Really?! Why not? What thickness is available? What happens when welded - I thought that it just reduced the galvanising at the weld? Lots of questions - don't feel obliged to answer them :lol: , but I am interested.

John

 

One reason why not is because nobody wants it. Another is that it's a technology that works in a different world, like metal buckets and air conditioning ducts.

 

I'd imaging (and I can feel a google search coming on) that the thickest galvanised steel you could get these days would be about 1/16th of an inch.

 

Welding burns the galvanising off and poisons the welder (the person doing the welding). It's very unpleasant.

 

IIRC galvanised steel sheet is made by running the steel cold through a vat of molten zinc - hot-dip galvanising. Otherwise anything else is dropped into a tank them removed. So to get your 10mm baseplate galvanised you need a tank that can immerse a sheet of the stuff. You then wreck the galvanising at the edges by cutting, grinding back for weld preparation, welding and so on.

 

Richard

 

Finally, it's cheaper and easier to just paint the stuff

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One reason why not is because nobody wants it. Another is that it's a technology that works in a different world, like metal buckets and air conditioning ducts.

 

I'd imaging (and I can feel a google search coming on) that the thickest galvanised steel you could get these days would be about 1/16th of an inch.

 

Welding burns the galvanising off and poisons the welder (the person doing the welding). It's very unpleasant.

 

IIRC galvanised steel sheet is made by running the steel cold through a vat of molten zinc - hot-dip galvanising. Otherwise anything else is dropped into a tank them removed. So to get your 10mm baseplate galvanised you need a tank that can immerse a sheet of the stuff. You then wreck the galvanising at the edges by cutting, grinding back for weld preparation, welding and so on.

 

Richard

 

Finally, it's cheaper and easier to just paint the stuff

 

Thanks for that!

I didn't realise welding galvanised steel was toxic. :lol:

 

John

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Thanks for that!

I didn't realise welding galvanised steel was toxic. :lol:

 

John

 

I'll second that it's not nice, even with my usual lack of regard for personal safety, I'm careful doing it. Even well experienced people (not meaning me) can get caught out and get themselves killed.

 

Respiratory / central nervous system issues.

 

PC

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Welding galv is a vile job, fumes and splatter are the principle problems.

 

Also if you were to have the sheet galved it would cost a fortune as its charged by weight not surface area i.e 1m/sq of 3mm will cost less than the same in 6m.

 

Then there is the issue of distortion of sheet material, then there is painting it, hot galv would require an enormous amount of work to prep for a good paint job as it will come out very uneven, then special etch primers will be needed, then if thats not enough I guess there would be an issue with galvanic isolation.

 

Biggles

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Am I dreaming, or is it true that whilst (most) galvanising in this country is done by the hot dip method, other countries used a different (and obviously therefore :lol: inferior) process?

[/quote

 

The thickest sheet I have seen galv is 3mm. It's done differently and is quite smooth. It's a hot dip process but I think it's done on a continuous dip method. There is also a finish called zintec. This is very thin and is really a storage coating as far as I know.

 

Biggles

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ICI had a hammerite type product out recently for painting iron gates and fences which involved connecting up the metal substrate to a small positive charge and spraying with a negatively charged spray paint (I may have got this the wrong way around), to achieve a sort of electrically bonded finish.

 

Why hasn't this sort of thing been applied to hull paint? Too expensive for large areas?

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ICI had a hammerite type product out recently for painting iron gates and fences which involved connecting up the metal substrate to a small positive charge and spraying with a negatively charged spray paint (I may have got this the wrong way around), to achieve a sort of electrically bonded finish.

 

Why hasn't this sort of thing been applied to hull paint? Too expensive for large areas?

Probably because slapping on blacking at several mm thick is better than spraying on something that's only a few microns thick. But that's just a guess.

 

Tony

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ICI had a hammerite type product out recently for painting iron gates and fences which involved connecting up the metal substrate to a small positive charge and spraying with a negatively charged spray paint (I may have got this the wrong way around), to achieve a sort of electrically bonded finish.

 

Why hasn't this sort of thing been applied to hull paint? Too expensive for large areas?

 

That's a spray painting technique rather than a corrosion prevention technique. Charging the paint particles and putting them in a circuit with the gate makes them "flow" onto the gate reducing overspray. It's very common in car factories.

 

Richard

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That's a spray painting technique rather than a corrosion prevention technique. Charging the paint particles and putting them in a circuit with the gate makes them "flow" onto the gate reducing overspray. It's very common in car factories.

 

Richard

 

Ah, I thought it might make the paint bond better?

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