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Vetus Morse control


Smelly

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We'll I've got the engine running sweet before our jaunt onto (currently) somewhat swollen rivers next week, however my last job is to turn up the friction on our morse control. However quick I'd like to go, it settles back to about 1400 revs when you let go, ok on the cut but I might need a bit more than that for continuous periods on't rivers.

 

We've got one of the ubiquitous "red knob on the end" levers with a button in the middle which you push if you want to rev higher than tick over while out of gear, fitted flush into the engine control stand on a scouse boat. There are two covered screws, one immediately to the right and one a bit lower down, which one to I tighten?

 

I can't find the manual on their website and I didn't get one with supposedly RCD compliant manual... so I'm down to asking you lot!.

 

Smiles

 

Dan

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We'll I've got the engine running sweet before our jaunt onto (currently) somewhat swollen rivers next week, however my last job is to turn up the friction on our morse control. However quick I'd like to go, it settles back to about 1400 revs when you let go, ok on the cut but I might need a bit more than that for continuous periods on't rivers.

 

We've got one of the ubiquitous "red knob on the end" levers with a button in the middle which you push if you want to rev higher than tick over while out of gear, fitted flush into the engine control stand on a scouse boat. There are two covered screws, one immediately to the right and one a bit lower down, which one to I tighten?

 

I can't find the manual on their website and I didn't get one with supposedly RCD compliant manual... so I'm down to asking you lot!.

 

Smiles

 

Dan

 

 

Hi There

 

Some where under the cover there will be a tension adjuster - could be an allan key or phillips.

I have seen one that requires you to drill through the plasic case to access it.

 

Alex

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We'll I've got the engine running sweet before our jaunt onto (currently) somewhat swollen rivers next week, however my last job is to turn up the friction on our morse control. However quick I'd like to go, it settles back to about 1400 revs when you let go, ok on the cut but I might need a bit more than that for continuous periods on't rivers.

 

We've got one of the ubiquitous "red knob on the end" levers with a button in the middle which you push if you want to rev higher than tick over while out of gear, fitted flush into the engine control stand on a scouse boat. There are two covered screws, one immediately to the right and one a bit lower down, which one to I tighten?

 

I can't find the manual on their website and I didn't get one with supposedly RCD compliant manual... so I'm down to asking you lot!.

 

Smiles

 

Dan

 

I didn't have the symptoms you describe but mine suddenly went loose when i tried to rev the engine. It was loose on the spline and I think I just took off the black plastic cover over the central button and tightened up an alan key screw. It's been fine since then.

Edited by blackrose
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I didn't have the symptoms you describe but mine suddenly went loose when i tried to rev the engine. It was loose on the spline and I think I just took off the black plastic cover over the central button and tightened up an alan key screw. It's been fine since then.

 

No I fixed that when we first got the boat. The lever fell off halfway through winding... never good!

 

The throttle does literally ease itself back when you stop leaning on it so I'm confident it's the friction adjustment. As I say, I suspect it's eitehr or both of teh two screws hiding behind the cover but I don't want to start randomly tightening things up as knowing my luck it'll break!

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No I fixed that when we first got the boat. The lever fell off halfway through winding... never good!

 

The throttle does literally ease itself back when you stop leaning on it so I'm confident it's the friction adjustment. As I say, I suspect it's eitehr or both of teh two screws hiding behind the cover but I don't want to start randomly tightening things up as knowing my luck it'll break!

 

Hi Smelly

 

I think the terminology is throttle creep, it comes on with age. :lol: Some Morse controls do have a friction device some do not, I dismantled the Morse on my first boat only to find it didn't have one. I was about to replace the Morse and rang a company in Peterborough who informed me what I needed was a cable brake £5 instead of £80 A very nice man saved me all that dosh.

It turned out that this throttle brake fits over the outer of the Morse cable and as you adjust it squeezes the outer of the cable onto the inner, the tighter you adjust the more friction you create. A simple fix to an annoying fault. The way some of the boat builders do it is to use an extra long Morse cable and create a loop somewhere in the run, as things wear you can reduce the radius of the loop which will increase the friction.

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Hi Smelly

 

I think the terminology is throttle creep, it comes on with age. :lol: Some Morse controls do have a friction device some do not, I dismantled the Morse on my first boat only to find it didn't have one. I was about to replace the Morse and rang a company in Peterborough who informed me what I needed was a cable brake £5 instead of £80 A very nice man saved me all that dosh.

It turned out that this throttle brake fits over the outer of the Morse cable and as you adjust it squeezes the outer of the cable onto the inner, the tighter you adjust the more friction you create. A simple fix to an annoying fault. The way some of the boat builders do it is to use an extra long Morse cable and create a loop somewhere in the run, as things wear you can reduce the radius of the loop which will increase the friction.

 

My one issue with this otherwise sage advice is that it's only two years old and it's been like this to some extent since new. I like the idea of bending the cable in an unusual way though...

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My one issue with this otherwise sage advice is that it's only two years old and it's been like this to some extent since new. I like the idea of bending the cable in an unusual way though...

 

Smelly

 

You could use a modellers G cramp, or the smallest G cramp you can get it will do the same thing. You could even try with some mole grips, going in easy stages until you stop the creep.

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Bowden cables don't like to be bent and messed about with, I would be more inclined to design some form of friction device within the lever mechanism, not as easy as it sounds I know.

 

I think I like the mole grips idea!

 

Cheers all!

 

However having recevied a reply from Andy at Goldsboroughs, it's both srews, so I can leave my mole grips where they are... holding the headlamp on! Cheers Andy!

Edited by Smelly
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  • 9 years later...

Its been a long time since there was activity on this subject, but it looks like the original query was never answered.  My throttle control slowly slips back from 1400 RPM to around 1200 RPM over a short period of time and its likely to drive me insane anytime soon.  I am struggling to work out what tools I need to adjust the friction setting on the Vetus controller.  There is a hole to the right of the lever with a plastic bung which the manual says is the adjuster for the friction control, but for the life of me I cannot see anything inside this hole.  I have tried screw drivers, cross head and flat without success.  Can anybody help.  Does this hole really conceal an adjuster?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I tried several small hex keys, but no luck.  There doesn't seem to be anything to connect to.  I tried to look inside the opening wearing a head torch but no joy.  Maybe the adjuster isn't there or its somehow been damaged.    Maybe I should try e-mailing Vetus

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Quote

Just had a look at mine, it  has a pozidrive /cross head screw under the cover.

don't know how I managed to quote myself but, also, the screw head was slightly off centre to the left of the hole in the plastic cover

Edited by Bazza954
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10 hours ago, Big Al said:

Thanks for the info. I will be on my boat on Monday armed with a couple of pozi drivers.  

Maybe your screw is missing, hence the reason why it slips and you cannot see the screw?

I would ask Vetus for a spare. Won't cost much, even at Vetus prices and should fit exactly if missing.

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