Jump to content

i cannot see the front !


mizpah

Featured Posts

:wacko: ok ,our boat is 57 x 12. we have problems going through narrow gaps,me moving from side to side whilst steering, looking down the sides stressed out then usually "bang".has anyone fitted cameras with a screen to aid this problem ?i tried two maplins,not much help,looked at truck reversing system.any help would be appreciated.even tried a sort of gun sight set up but the middle of a bridge isnt always the middle of the gap. B)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

:wacko: ok ,our boat is 57 x 12. we have problems going through narrow gaps,me moving from side to side whilst steering, looking down the sides stressed out then usually "bang".has anyone fitted cameras with a screen to aid this problem ?i tried two maplins,not much help,looked at truck reversing system.any help would be appreciated.even tried a sort of gun sight set up but the middle of a bridge isnt always the middle of the gap. B)

 

Rather than keep moving from side to side, I line my boat up on one side of the lock, bridge or whatever and just watch that side. The other side of the boat looks after itself. Works well for me as long as the gap is slightly wider than my boat. Mind you, my beam is only 6 ft 10. Still should work for broad beam as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:wacko: ok ,our boat is 57 x 12. we have problems going through narrow gaps,me moving from side to side whilst steering, looking down the sides stressed out then usually "bang".has anyone fitted cameras with a screen to aid this problem ?i tried two maplins,not much help,looked at truck reversing system.any help would be appreciated.even tried a sort of gun sight set up but the middle of a bridge isnt always the middle of the gap. B)
My boat is the same size and I found that running from side to side across the stern deck when approaching a bridgehole just made matters worse. It's a bit like driving a van through a 6'6" barrier - if you try to look at both sides you'll probably hit one of the bollards.

 

I usually move my boat single handed and I found the best way to approach a narrow gap was to stay on the tiller but get myself a bit higher. I usually stand on the steel bench on my stern deck and it's much easier to judge where you are in relation to the approaching gap. However, it's a slightly dodgy thing to do because it would be quite easy to fall off the back of the boat from this position, so be aware and do it at your own risk.

 

Edit: I've assumed yours is a NB style widebeam, but of if it's a Dutch barge with a wheelhouse you should already be high enough.

 

Rather than keep moving from side to side, I line my boat up on one side of the lock, bridge or whatever and just watch that side. The other side of the boat looks after itself. Works well for me as long as the gap is slightly wider than my boat. Mind you, my beam is only 6 ft 10. Still should work for broad beam as well.
The trouble with that on a 12' beam boat is that to look down one side you have to leave the tiller - unless there are two of you of course. Edited by blackrose
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The trouble with that on a 12' beam boat is that to look down one side you have to leave the tiller - unless there are two of you of course.

 

OR you have arms as long as telegraph poles.

 

Good point, hadn't thought that one through

Edited by Graham Blott
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My boat is the same size and I found that running from side to side across the stern deck when approaching a bridgehole just made matters worse. It's a bit like driving a van through a 6'6" barrier - if you try to look at both sides you'll probably hit one of the bollards.

 

I usually move my boat single handed and I found the best way to approach a narrow gap was to stay on the tiller but get myself a bit higher. I usually stand on the steel bench on my stern deck and it's much easier to judge where you are in relation to the approaching gap. However, it's a slightly dodgy thing to do because it would be quite easy to fall off the back of the boat from this position, so be aware and do it at your own risk.

 

Edit: I've assumed yours is a NB style widebeam, but of if it's a Dutch barge with a wheelhouse you should already be high enough.

 

The trouble with that on a 12' beam boat is that to look down one side you have to leave the tiller - unless there are two of you of course.

 

could you not have a easy to fit/remove hinged extension perpendicular to the tiller - like they use on yachts when hanging over the side?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The trouble with that on a 12' beam boat is that to look down one side you have to leave the tiller - unless there are two of you of course.OR you have arms as long as telegraph poles. Good point, hadn't thought that one through
how about a tiller extension - out sideways - if you know what I mean. You could just hook it on, and stand at the side and steer through the tight spots, and unhook it and resume you normal position ?
could you not have a easy to fit/remove hinged extension perpendicular to the tiller - like they use on yachts when hanging over the side?
hey - you type faster than me ! B)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The trouble with that on a 12' beam boat is that to look down one side you have to leave the tiller - unless there are two of you of course.

OR you have arms as long as telegraph poles.

 

Good point, hadn't thought that one through

Perhaps a bungy cord system to keep the tiller straight while you have a look? Sounds a bit awkward though...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The thing is, it's really like anything else you move: a car, a boat, whatever. Once you get used to your own width you can easily judge what you're going to hit or miss. However, if you're short like me 40 x 11 foot of curved roof in front of you can make it tricky and you've got to bear in mind that there's 9 or 10 feet of bow in front that you can't even see (and that's the same on a narrowboat of course). Anyway, getting yourself a bit higher really does help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are lucky enough to be on the Leeds and Liverpool then you will find that many of the bridges have a line of paint marking the centre of the water. It is as unnerving as hell the first few times that you commit to it and do not sneak a peak down the side but you do learn to trust them. I now improvise a similar system by calculating where the paint would be on the unmarked bridges round here; it does work but we do go through all bridge holes gently as they are often full of rubbish.

 

If your boat holds a line well without to much tiller pressure then you might even be able to briefly let go in order to glance down the side.

 

Good luck

Giles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought the OP was talking about going forwards, not reversing?

 

Problem solved. Go everywhere in reverse - boats don't steer in reverse - no need to steer - you get a good view of the boat bouncing off the walls, bridges etc!

 

In all seriousness accept the fact that inland boating is a contact sport and accept the bumps until you are used to your boat. They are all different. Even then the canals will always catch you out but after a certain amount of time the scrapes get less and less worrying.

 

At my marina the B.S.S. inspector asked how often I take my boat out. 'Whenever I can' I replied. He liked that answer - he said that there were boats in the marina that had only moved to go to his workshop for painting between inspections!

 

Enjoy your boat for what it is designed to do - boating!!! B) and touch it up when you can. (I mean the paint)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

could you not have a easy to fit/remove hinged extension perpendicular to the tiller - like they use on yachts when hanging over the side?

 

 

Thats certainly what i would do. Some form of ball and socket joint and rather than keep removing the extension i would devise a way to clip it to the tiller arm so its readily deployable for the next bridge

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats certainly what i would do. Some form of ball and socket joint and rather than keep removing the extension i would devise a way to clip it to the tiller arm so its readily deployable for the next bridge

 

Or even a tiller arm with the ball & socket joint and extension that clips onto itself. So normally its a double tiller bar but you could unlip the extension and walk to the side. It might take some practice steering from the side with the extension though...

Edited by blackrose
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A wireless CCTV baby monitor would be an option but I like the idea of a quality CCTV camera and a good UV lamp at the front of the boat, the camera wired to a 2.4ghz transmitter with the receiver on the stern hatch with a pair of video goggles plugged in. Not only can you avoid obstructions but night vision boating becomes possible... When i say UV I do of course mean IR. Doh! B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:P ok ,our boat is 57 x 12. we have problems going through narrow gaps,me moving from side to side whilst steering, looking down the sides stressed out then usually "bang".has anyone fitted cameras with a screen to aid this problem ?i tried two maplins,not much help,looked at truck reversing system.any help would be appreciated.even tried a sort of gun sight set up but the middle of a bridge isnt always the middle of the gap. :wacko:

 

00018_Raw_017_1_001.jpg

 

00014_Raw_013_1_001.jpg

 

Yes have done a few now you can get the bits off Ebay for less than a £100.00 we use this one HERE quite often we also sell ourselves better quality ones from Camos but they start at about £300.00.

 

I would stick to Ebay. (Don't say I said so!)

 

Non of these things without you fit an upgraded camera with an extra wide angle lens will give you the ideal view but after playing with one I found it did have it's uses in some situations.

 

The night vision is useful for stealthy navigation through bandit country on a night too! B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assuming the bridge-hole or gap to be big enough (presumably) then the only bit the needs to be lined up is the centre line which you should be able to do from the steering position without moving.

 

That and a bit of practice - i can get my 14' breasted-up pair through a 14' bridge-hole without looking down the side, which in my experience doesn't give a good line anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

B) ok ,our boat is 57 x 12. we have problems going through narrow gaps,

I find being able to see the bow helps, this can be done with a pole at the bow (we have a very light - cheap - flag on it, so indicating the wind direction as well). Try it with a stick, long enough so you can see it from the helm. If it helps (and it does for me) then get a nice flag pole.

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assuming the bridge-hole or gap to be big enough (presumably) then the only bit the needs to be lined up is the centre line which you should be able to do from the steering position without moving.

 

That and a bit of practice - i can get my 14' breasted-up pair through a 14' bridge-hole without looking down the side, which in my experience doesn't give a good line anyway.

Yes I agree, have something on the roof near to the bow that is situated in the middle and just line it up with the bridge hole.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go slow :wacko:

 

Well as has been said, don't look from side to side - for one thing you change the CoG as you change sides and the direction of the boat. Go slow well in advance, slowing down at the last minute is no use. Use the centre of the boat and not the edges.

 

On bridge holes the centre is between the keystone and the non-towpath side. I would suggest you line up the keystone to be between the centre of your boat's roof and the edge of the roof on the off side, that way you sail through (I do this going through on normal cruising speed (3mph) unless its blind bend, when I'll slow a bit B))

 

On narrow locks line up the centre of the roof with where the locks gates meet at the far end. Though bare in mind if the locks on an angle (can you see walls on both sides).

 

Speed is definitely key - slow right down. I've navigated round a crowded marina, if unsure of gap sizes between boats, whilst mostly in neutral, only adding thrust when I need to change direction.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go slow :wacko:

 

Well as has been said, don't look from side to side - for one thing you change the CoG as you change sides and the direction of the boat. Go slow well in advance, slowing down at the last minute is no use. Use the centre of the boat and not the edges.

 

On bridge holes the centre is between the keystone and the non-towpath side. I would suggest you line up the keystone to be between the centre of your boat's roof and the edge of the roof on the off side, that way you sail through (I do this going through on normal cruising speed (3mph) unless its blind bend, when I'll slow a bit B))

 

On narrow locks line up the centre of the roof with where the locks gates meet at the far end. Though bare in mind if the locks on an angle (can you see walls on both sides).

 

Speed is definitely key - slow right down. I've navigated round a crowded marina, if unsure of gap sizes between boats, whilst mostly in neutral, only adding thrust when I need to change direction.

 

I hope the person who raised the question doesn't take your advice. He is on a wide beam!

Sue

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.