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Found 13 results

  1. We're about to have the decaying linings replaced on our side hatches and rear doors. What do you recommend to protect wood that gets regular exposure to weather, though isn't permanently exposed? At present the frames and inner doors seem to be peeling polyurethane varnish (sigh), and Easter will be spent sanding and re-doing at the same time as we finish the new linings. I was going to use yacht varnish (looking for a good brand) but a bit of research on google is revealing all sorts of other wood coatings such as traditional varnishes (?) and things like Sadolin wood stain (clear?). We are happy to spend time applying good stuff first time round but are notoriously bad at regular maintenance of such things, so long-lasting and easy to touch up with minimal prep time when tatty always wins over perfect finish. I like a satin, not gloss, finish and it'll have to match the existing oak, or not look startlingly out of place. Any advice welcome! Thanks
  2. We are looking to paint the interior wood panels of our boat but don't know what type of paint to use... should we avoid water based paint due to condensation? Any tips on the best type to use (and preparation) would be gratefully received! Thanks, Becky
  3. We are in the middle of renovating our narrowboat (aren't we all..) and have come to the point where we need to rip off the material that is above the gunnels. Firstly, I'm not sure what the material that is on there currently is called. It is glued on and thicker than wallpaper, easy to clean (wipeable) but peeling at the sides and a grotty colour. Other than it being grotty/peeling in multiple places it is inoffensive but haven't been able to find anything like it anywhere. Any ideas what it would be called? Picture attached of this. We have put wood in under the gunnels and are wondering what others have done above the gunnels to complement? It potentially would be difficult for us to paint due to the glue that is already on the underside of the wood. I've heard about vinyl, wallpapering, carpeting. We do have leaky windows/condensation so questionable what is suitable. Thoughts welcome!
  4. Hi everybody. Not sure if anyone remembers, but I posted a few months ago with reference to narrowboat door panel sizes (whether standard or not) - we are looking for head for the cut as the children get a little older, therefore don't have a boat as yet. I cut portraits and other items using scroll saw techniques, and would really love to re-create the 'Roses & Castles'. I have discovered that the traditional techniques are slowly dying out - which would undoubtedly be a tragic shame. I have started creating my own templates (as with my other work) and used a technique called Segmentation, to cut the image. I have used the standard Humbrol oils, although some of the mixed colours are not quite true to form. I would really like any comments or opinions, as this would surely help me to get this important traditional art form correct. I'd like to make it perfectly clear that this is not a sales pitch in any way - I'm experimenting in the early stages and here seems the perfect place to ask for advice. Contact details of anyone who's an authority on Roses & Castles would be perfect. Thank you for reading, and any comments are greatly appreciated. Kindest Regards, Nick.
  5. Hi. now that the temperatures are beginning to drop and the days and getting shorter (how bleak) i have tried out the Efel multi-fuel burning a couple of time on our new-ish narrow boat. to cut to the chase, it smokes pretty much from every crack and orifice (!), until a point about an hour down the line when it is hot and burning coal when it seems to become more efficient. This burner is tall and slender (!) with a small door down below (!) and a slightly larger one at the top, through which you can deliver fuel in whichever form you are using. the flue comes out of the back on the burner, around a third of the way down the upright cylinder of the main body. at the moment smokes leaks heavily out of the top between the body and the hot plate, between the seals of the upper door, and anywhere else it can manage in the upper third of the burner. Is this burner just a shit design?? I've not seen one of these before and can't even find a picture on google. I can see how i might be able to replace the seal on the upper door (some sort of fire-rope type stuff), but how do i totally seal all cracks, gaps and holes??? Does anyone have experience of this burner?? Can it be sorted?? It actually works well after a couple of hours, but by then we have been sitting in a very smoky boat for 2 hours!! Incidentally, despite the different design (tall and thin, opposed to short and squat) it does seem quite useful to be able to fill out from the upper door, so if we can seal it then maybe it will ultimately be a great thing. Anyone? cheers!!!
  6. We bought this wooden Edwardian washstand for our loo, and I plan to plumb in a small sit-on-top basin and tall mixer tap on the top. I like the patina on the wood, but I also don’t want it to start looking crappy in the occasionally steamy environment — from using the quadrant shower. I’m not sure how Edwardian cabinets would have been finished originally — it looks like some kind of fine varnish. I put drops of water on various parts of the top, upper sides, etc. and left them there for about 20 minutes — and find they wipe off without a mark. I’m also not sure what type of wood it’s made of. I originally thought oak, but now not sure because the exposed grain edges are very dense and smooth. I reckon I have three options: 1) Do nothing to the surface (and see how it goes) 2) Clean the wood as much as I can and give it multiple coats of a good, satin varnish 3) Sand it back a bit and oil it with multiple coats of Danish Oil (which I’ve used elsewhere in the boat). Anybody have any experience of Edwardian furniture finishes … or using wooden furniture in bathrooms?
  7. Interesting use for an old metal clothes locker - seen at a local cafe (as evidenced by my half scone!!). Might not work with a modern boat but if you are into industrial decor....
  8. Hi everyone We are just going through the build process of our first boat, we are getting a semi fitted Sailaway and we know exactly what we are doing ourselves and what we are getting ready built. Everything that is except for the wood burning stove. We would like to do this ourselves and are well versed and very good at this type of building however neither of us have had experience fitting a wood burning stove before. We where hoping for some advice as to if we should take this on ourselves, which is something we would be keen to do, or if there we should pay for someone to install it, or ask the boat builders themselves to do it (at an additional cost obviously). Our may concern are obviously safety, but we are also interested to get an idea of cost as well as we can't seem to find a lot of information on this. Any advice appreciated Megan
  9. This is the rear bulkhead on Lutine's cabin. It's rotten to the point of replacement. Several factors behibd this, it was probably a hasty job in the first place, the rear deck traps water against it, I haven't had much chance to take remedial action on the long and tortured journey south as I was to busy moving and nursing the engine. Anyway, it appears to be a single piece of plywood (now delaminating): to replace like with like would be doable but cumbersome. I'm also tempted with putting a small window or porthole in it. Single piece ply? Planks of timber? It's a fibreglass cabin btw not steel, otherwise I'd put a steel bulkhead in
  10. Hi, Does anyone know what wood Collingwood make the front doors out of on the widebeam sailaways?? Looks like Sapele but I'm not sure, I'd like to do the rest fo the boat in the same wood. Help much appreciated, I've emailed them but they are notoriously slow in replying once you've given them your cash! Cheers, Will
  11. I am looking for some advice one a less than perfect situation. I spent my summer doing up a narrowboat that I now live on as a continuous cruiser, however the Stove now seems to be giving me grief in making my Asthma unbearable and I have recently been travelling back to my parents just to breath. There seems to be really differing schools of thought on this, but I seem to have a theory of what may be happening. My stove seems to have a decent draw (bare in mind I have nothing to compare this to as it's my first stove) but As the flue Pipe I have used is vitreous enamel and barely a mm thick I wondered whether as I shut it down for the night, after sometime (in the early hours I pressume) the flue may be cooling due to it's lack of thickness and letting some of the gases drop and enter the room via the tiny gaps in the vents. The chap at my local chandlery is really helpful and believes that if it's not setting any of my co2 alarms off then it's probably nothing to worry about and is not convinced that changing my flue will work but suggested changing coal instead. He also handed me a smoke test match to test for any leaks but I think this is unlikely as I sealed everything as best I could. In another local stove shop the bloke at the desk practically threw a catalogue in my face and said 'nothing less than this £800 double insulated flue would do', I left as briskly as I entered. If anyone has any experience of breathing troubles or flue pipe tekkers and knowledge I would really like to hear it as I desperately want to stay on my boat. thanks, Pete
  12. Just thinking ahead to the next couple of jobs - one is to maybe decorate up to the gunnels (inside) so could be paint, wallpaper, (with or without that polystyrene stuff under it), or carpet. Flooring I had thought laminate, but I've been hearing a lot about vinyl/lino lately. Wondering what others have and especially pro's and cons regarding damp/moisture etc. For example, would carpet keep the walls warm and mould free or would it be like a sponge? Would it make any real difference to the boats thermal efficiency? Would something like vinyl flooring stop the underside from breathing perhaps? I'm all about the practicality, as all these various coverings come in a wide range of colours and styles anyway.
  13. I'm in a rented cottage in the Dales, playing with a Burley Debdale wood burner. The owner supplies very well seasoned logs which burn amazingly well compared to any wood I have burnt in other cottages. Has anyone tried burning logs vertically? They seem to last longer. The stove belts out heat but shutting the air flow to less than 50% and it slowly goes out. I wonder if others could advise. My narrowboat has a stove at each end and I only use MSF. This dedicated wood burner is a revelation. I might fit one at home.
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