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My wee 1968 Springer-effect office boat has a hole. Actually, she has lots of holes and needs complete overplating or new sides. I'm looking for cheap options near Bham to give another lease of life, or innovative bodges to keep her afloat a few more years. Context: Went into dry dock for a check and blacking at Hockley Port. Hull deemed thin and in need of overplating 'soon, in next few years'. I found one proper hole underneath which was plated yesterday morning, but then more leaks appeared as we refloated her - looks like weld on the V has bent and cracked under boat's own weight where it touched the blocks, and there were 2 other small holes that I could find when I took up the floor, so probably more. Plus some very deep nearly-hole pits which wont last long. I'm now beached on our Hockley Port slipway with a bilge pump going so water doesn't come over the floorboards while I ponder options - will be OK here for a few weeks but not indefinitely. What would be the ballpark cost of overplating or replacing everything below the rubbing strakes on a 20ft V bottom boat? It is not a Springer, but looks like one - it has been cobbled together over the years from pieces, and doesn't necessarily have to stay V-bottomed. Any recommendations for people to ring? The guy at Caggys' cant do it, and Tony Fryer at Hawne Basin is away till Friday week - will call him then. But Hawne basin is full on hardstanding at the mo apparently. Icknield Port Loop has just closed We may be able to get it out on slipway with trailer - where would I start asking about that? The winch no longer works on this slipway, so it'd need someone to haul out w vehicle too. So it doesn't necessarily need a 'boat' welder, just someone who could do it on hardstanding. Possible bodges we brainstormed yesterday Concreting bottom as a fix - might sort the bottom and give much needed ballast but not reach the pits above the floor level on the sides. Wrapping with something? Glass fibre etc? Not viable over bitumen I guess Park it in a metal floating tray (the boat has no engine and goes nowhere) The office boat is a luxury - cost me a grand to buy 2.5 years ago and another grand or so to fit out over six months of weekends with a friend, and I have to pay for moorings etc, so I can't pour unlimited dosh into it. My thought is 2-3 grand tops, but if it made it resaleable later, maybe a tiny bit more. Default is scrap, but I love the boat and don't want to. Really annoying thing is that when I bought it knowing it was mainly 3-4mm I wanted to get it overplated while I had it back to steel and *everyone* and their dog told me not to worry - if it had floated for 45 years it would be fine, esp as it will only ever be static, don't waste the money etc etc. Fitting it out was a fun project the first time but the thought of ripping it all ut and doing it all over again - and paying for it again - fills me with dread. AND I've just paid Sherborne Wharf prices to beautifully black and weld a sieve! Grump!! All suggestions - and sympathy - much appreciated Pic of boat, slipway, and sample of hull before blacking, attached.

Some pictures of my bike rack as requested in Junior's CC thread. It's made of aluminium angle and wood. The bike was on offer at Halfrauds a while ago at £99 unassembled, or £119 if they put it together for me. It took me 20 minutes to do the job...

I like both of these they are a perfect size for my needs a very cheap to run 1 man / 1 Dog live aboard...but which one? I like the Springer layout (with a few minor modifications) but NOT the overplating and I like the Hancock finish and decor but is it worth the extra cash? what do you good people think of them? Springer http://narrowboats.apolloduck.co.uk/feature.phtml?id=316058 Hancock http://narrowboats.apolloduck.co.uk/feature.phtml?id=315906

No, not *that* sort of date.... Having bought a Springer, which it is alleged was built in 1969, is there any way to check the build date from a hull number or similar? Pictures of her out of the water are available, if that would help. Close up shots of fittings and rudder top can be sourced quickly enough. I've had a Google, but all I get are references to boats and buliders in the Pacific. Thanks in advance. Bye! John.

Hello all, The misses and i have recently bought a stripped out 50ft springer project boat. We are in the process of stripping out the windows, replacing broken glass and re-sealing. As its of a fair age the previous owners have gunned a ridiculous amount of sealant etc to keep what glass is left in place. Some of the windows have plastic instead of glass. We have found that we are missing 2 sealing u channels at the bottom of the top hopper piece of glass on the larger windows (see images attached). I habe tried for months now to get an alumimium u channel to fit 4mm glass but have had no luck. Would anyone know if i could get these channels anywhere or know anywhere that would have something similar or even know anywhere that could fabricate them? Thanks in advance

Hiya I'm wondering if anyone could give me a guide price for a Springer. 1979, trad stern, 33ft narrowboat. I'm currently renting it but thinking to make an offer. It's just had the shower pump refitted and lots of rotten wood removed, however there is rotten wood under the floorboards that needs doing and it needs drying out - guy who owns it can't afford to do the rest of work i think/and it's falling on me to do this maintenance work. I've just spent the last couple of Saturdays and evenings, absorbing water out of the floor and de moulding!! It's not been blacked in ages - since he got it - so at least 7 years, and I don't imagine it's the longer lasting paint! The engine doesn't work - and takes up loads of space. However, it does come with a prime mooring spot. which would be the reason for purchase. also not paying loads of rent so i can save up for my next boat. I have a small amount, an have just been refused a loan for the boat that I really wanted. Would it be a silly idea to buy this boat? would it be a pain to sell it on with no engine? How would the boat be taken for survey and blacking if it has no engine? appreciate your suggestions and opinions on this. many thanks. Sadie

Hi, I have just looked at a 36ft Springer (perhaps early 80's) narrowboat for sale, priced at 10,000, as a project boat. No survey yet - owners have had her for 3 years, in those years they have replated on both front and stern after a survey, and blacked and annoded once (now due for renewal) The project: 1. Pre-purchase: Survey + It is due blacking, annodes and engine service (potentially the costs of this, and any replating needed, could be deducted from 10,000 boat cost) 2. Interior Hull: Need to create access in the floor to the interior hull as it there is currently no hatch etc. - Whilst doing the floor, thought would be a good idea to swap (apparently lumps of metal) ballast for engineering blocks, and, do work on the interior steel hull if needed (wire cup brush, rust treat with Vactan, and overcoat with something - bilge paint OR red oxide???) - Then insulate, plywood boards, and wooden board flooring. 3. Panelling: Taking down wall and ceiling boards which have been B&Q bodged in, to be able to redo with nicer wood, but most importantly, electrics and plumbing. 4. Wiring: There is wiring for 12v and 240v, however 240v is not plugged in at the moment, and the owners are running off solar (owners don't trust the wiring) SO would need completely re-wiring the solar (as it is currently just strung around the boat), utility battery for ceiling lights, 12v sockets and 240v sockets, and waterpump for shower/water. 5. Plumbing: There is also plumbing, but they currently don't use as they removed the old watertank, and currently run off a jerry can of water for the sink, and a cassette toilet. The plumbing also currently runs under the floor, so all old plumbing needs to be ripped out, and replumbed in the wall cavities - would like to plumb in sink, shower and potentially septic tank toilet, and then need to get a new watertank. 6. Other Misc: There is a working gas oven and hob, which seems to be fine and functional, so maybe gas is ok? Also a good, working coal/wood burner. Although engine needs a service, she ran well, when they took us for a 1 hr cruise, i think it is a Lister aircooled engine. So, if the survey all went well, does this sound like too much - In all honesty this would be my first narrowboat, but I am on a budget, hence only being able to afford budget boats. Time is not an issue, although being able to live in it by spring would be great. Main questions; - does the tactic to restore the inner hull sound like an ok approach, if it needed doing? What is the realistic expectation for the steel interior hull of a 80's Springer? - is wiring/plumbing possible to do myself, or is it needed to have a professional for BSC and insurnnce? In which case, how much could i expect for full plumbing/wiring? - what work could i expect to do myself, and what should i look for quotes for? Any advice will be HUGELY appreciated in terms of costs expected, or time taken, or regulations to adhere to when doing up a boat. This boat, technically is liveable, as they have been fine for 3 years, but needing this work, what price for it would be realistic? Thank you!

Below is a chart from my hull survey. In this scenario I want to imagine things are as bad as they can possibly be. The boat is in mooring and does not leave the marina. Water is present between the over plating and the original hull, The mooring electricity is badly wired and electricity is leaking in to the canal. The weather has been terrible, it is Winter and the river continues to freeze and thaw The boat next to me is used a lot and every time they moor up they crash in to my boat. How long can my boat last???

Good evening, Here are some pics of my bilge after scraping and applying Kurust to turn the rust into something else? from bow to stern each section gets worse, the front 3 sections seem good to acceptable but the last section I lifted a good Kilogram of rusted debris, when I put the rust inhibitor down it poured into a hole never to be seen again! Which leads to me to the idea, can I put a plate over it? is that an acceptable fix? is it necessary? and affordable? (will be done by welder) (it is already over plated on the outside) will it need a support strut or would a plate alone suffice?