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  1. We are planning to have a gap year cruising around the canal network in a couple of years time, we have both finished our careers and will be moving to the coast after a few adventures, we have just one more child to see off to Uni. That planning stage is now to the point of adding solar panels to the roof, I have made a few selections based of months of research and asking questions and I have started documenting the plan on the blog, at the moment we have looked at size and positioning https://floydtilla.co.uk/2023/03/13/planning-for-solar-panels-part-1/ Then how to mount them https://floydtilla.co.uk/2023/03/25/planning-for-solar-panels-part-2-panel-mounting-options/ then types of panels https://floydtilla.co.uk/2023/04/02/planning-for-solar-panels-part-3-types-of-panels/ There will be more to come over the next few months while we sort out all the other parts, but I am open to idea/options as we plan this install, please let me know what you think, what tricks I have missed that should be included. Thanks David
  2. Hey guys, I've got an issue with my solar system. At the moment, I can leave my solar panel charging for 2 days, even with sun, and it won't go over about 70%. Even that will only last 2 hours watching tv or running 1 laptop. I'm now not sure if I got a controller that's too cheap (eBay job), if I don't have enough batteries, (2 x 110amp leisure batteries with 2 more on standby), or whether the panel isn't powerful enough (Highly doubtful) Maybe I might have not set up the controller properly such as setting the cut off voltage etc but I'm not sure what the settings should be. A (poorly drawn) diagram of my setup: If anyone has any advice on what I can try, I would be eternally grateful.
  3. Hello folks - I'm 'noodling out 'what I need for a change from living as a ccer on my own to a ccer with a boat that will have up to 4 people (1 baby) and one 10 year old part time. - I'm getting my 45ft boat extended to 58ft. My 3 way fridge has come to the end of its life A washing machine would be good I'm not familiar with the maths I need to do to work out what my system can cope with and accordingly what else I need What I have 3 80 watt solar panels 3 105ah leisure batteries A small alternator (I cant remember its output, its for a 3 pot sole diesel, I just remember someone who saw the boat commenting that it didn't have a great output) A small inverter (too small) I have LED lights, a pump for the radiator, gas cooker, obvs water pump for shower, occasionally watch a film on an LED TV, and a laptop. My MPPT controller can have 1 more solar panel at 80watts I think I can make room for 1 more leisure battery. A generator and compressor fridge is too expensive. So what Id like to be possible - is a conventional in house sized fridge & washing machine, new energy efficient. A new Inverter (2kw big enough?) - If required a 4th leisure battery and solar panel. Is there an idiots guide to working this stuff out, so I can really sus what I need/what's possible? Thanks Martin
  4. Hi peeps! I'm hatching a plan to expand our current Squirrel-fed radiator system to also heat the calorifer. I have about zero plumbing knowledge... so the ideas below are all based on assumptions. I hope that by showing you the idea at this stage, I might not make hideous mistakes! I intend to use the newer 'push fit' pipes and fittings, as they're easier, not that much more expensive than copper, and the links to the calorifier already use them. I'd also like to have a solar collector as an option. As far as I can tell, the calorifier only has one coil (unless the other one is hidden beneath its insulation.) The drawing shows the boat as if it were just one continuous wall. I.e., port, stern, and starboard. This is because the calorifier is on the port side, and the burner/radiators are on the starboard side. I have to find a way to get the feed and return either around the back of the engine bay, or along the bulkhead dividing the bay and the living space, but beneath the doorway. The circles with crosses are taps - or three-way selectors, which I'm assuming exist. The bulkhead appears twice (port and starboard) The existing system has a bolan pump, but can also be used as a thermosyphoning system. I've sent the hot feed around the back of the boat, thinking that this might continue to operate (even though the cold return from the calorifier must travel uphill by about 100mm to rejoin the radiator system. An issue with this solution is that the pipe may loose too much heat to the hull / uninsulated engine bay. Another is: how do you mount pipes onto steel hulls! If thermosyphoning, or just running from one pump isn't an option, it might be more sensible to run the hot and cold feeds from the radiator system to the calorifier along the same route that the cold feed takes in this design- along the bulkhead (3d sketch might make more sense....) I suppose that's my main question at the moment. Is is a feasible idea? and, if so, should I run the pipes around the back of the boat (pictured), in a more gentle slope, or just go for the steep attack, use less pipe, but need a pump? The hot feed could be teed from the pipework just below the header tank instead. But would the single bolan (?) pump by the Squirrel be able to move the water that far? Assumptions. The original hot/cold pipes from the engine only have one shut off valve. It's my understanding that the pressure of the water in a circuit will prevent water from a different circuit from entering it when the tap is closed: water always follows the path of least resistance. For the solar circuit, there is a pump out there that will run on 12v, not consume insane amounts of power (though, on sunny days, our panel produces at least 8A), and be able to push the cold feed water to the roof. I require a separate header tank for the solar circuit, as it's higher than the current one. The solar circuit needs to be treated as a separate system, as if connected, pressure will release water from the lower header tank. Any help or suggestions on how this could be made better, or if it will even work, most appreciated!
  5. I'm planning on mounting a couple of solar panels on roof boxes, and while im familiar with the common 45 degree tilting mounts, i've been thinking about the possibility of mounting panels using widely available tv wall mounts. Does anyone have any experience with these? the main (possible) benefits I can see are that 1. These mounts are cheaply and widely available 2. They enable panning and tiltling 3. panels can be easily raised and tilted, and then lowered back down for cruising. 4. Many mounts include cable routing. the main issues i can see are 1. These are designed to be used horizontally not vertically, and so might not hold a panel up without some kind of prop to prevent it collapsing 2. During high winds additional attachment may be required 3. Additional bracketing on the back of the panel may be required to fit the two together 4. Indoor wall mounts probably aren't very weather proof. just wanted to see what people think before i consider giving it a go. these are what i'm talking about: http://www.amazon.co.uk/VonHaus-Designer-Habitat-Cantilever-Bracket/dp/B00DQT8XBA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0JC8063ZNQ04HPD23TKS there are loads of different designs available.
  6. Hi people. I've got a boat with a Mastervolt Combi unit fitted. (12/2500-10). OK, very nice (in a technologically frightening way) with two other boxes in the digtal line i.e. a mastershunt 500 and a thingy called a digital DC 10x 10A. All I can say about them is the green LED's flash occasionally and it all looks very "butch". It scares the heck out of me does all that technology. Load wise, the only thing running 24/7 is my fridge which pulls 6.3 amps occasionally when the fan is turning. The rest of the boat is now all low power LED. What I want to do is to equip for constant cruising and thus am thinking I've got a nice big roof, and there is enough space for 4 x 100w 12v solar panels running through a MPPT controller. Not a problem except can you combine (parallel) the two? That's the free solar power and the all singing grey box with the Master Volt label? So far emails to MasterVolt are going unanswered thus this question. Which either means they don't want me to or I've been spammed into the WPB. And across to you.
  7. Hello Bonus is in and it gives me just enough to install some solar on the roof. Based on my usage needs I can do with pretty much all I can get . Although I'm all low power & LED I do have a few luxuries that it would be good to power with solar when/where possible and off grid (Currently on hook up but don't see that as necessarily lasting forever) I've started coming up with a plan to help me identify what I don't know. My first pass is below and I have already identified a few questions that I need to answer. I've spent a little time reading up on the forums and have experience of building a small set up a long time ago (To power a caravan) but definitely need to get myself educated on the subject. What are your thoughts on game plan below? Are you able to point me in the right direction with any of the questions I have identified thus far? 1. Design top boxes - Come up with a design for ‘sloped’ wooden top boxes with solar panels embedded in the top (to match lines of existing DB style dog box) 2. Map out roof and all fixed location extrusions - Including ‘to be’ pump out location (Another DIY task) 3. Identify optimum solar panels and box design that matches both electrical and aesthetic requirements (See a bit of back and forth comparing panel characteristics/sizes and lumps on the roof before settling on something) - Q: Any ideas on how to mount centre lines to roof with sufficient strength on port and starboard side? I have spray foam insulation and design that makes removal of internal roofing a PITA so anything that gets around both would be great! - Q: Does anybody have a top box with solar panels that also had a mushroom vent underneath? Does the temperature under the panels cause any issues with circulation? (Assuming not?) - Q: Any recommendations on good places to read up on different panel types and how to select right ones for needs and how to match to MPPT controller and installation design (Thinking max voltage considerations vs temperature etc.) 4. Identify optimum wiring of the panels to MPPT - I’m going to be using MPPT. Don’t yet know whether I will be wiring panels in series/parallel etc. or single vs multiple controller - TBD Q: Does having panels pointing in different directions (Like the doors on a dog box) create additional wiring considerations? 5. Identify optimum wiring of the MPPT to batteries - I’ve got a Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120. - In scenario where plugged in to mains I’d like solar to take priority and charger only to kick in if batteries discharging because solar not providing sufficient charge. - Q: Is that possible? - Q: If not, what’s the forums view on second best option (Looking for automatic rather than relying on me to check voltage, switch on/off chargers etc 6. Buy the stuff and build Apologies, looking back that is a lot of questions. Hopefully others have got or will have similar questions so this isn't all about me!
  8. Hi all! I have a 240V/16A (shore power) coming into the boat. It goes through a Victron unit which controls the 3 leisure batteries (wired positive to positive) and 1 starter battery. I'm thinking of adding a solar panel to the boat. Normally, I would put the solar panel to the controller then to the first leisure battery. Would this confuse the Victron, or is that the done thing with Victron units? Thanks!
  9. i had a 100W flexible fixed panel that got water damage after 3 years. and want to replace it. i would like a 50-100% increase in battery charge. i do a 6-8 week cruise in the summer and occasional long weekend cruises between April and October (Inclusive). initially i thought of getting a slightly larger panel with tilting mounting, but I'm beginning to think 2 fixed panels would do the same for a similar cost. i stuck my original panel which seemed good but water got under it and eventually all the paint became a soggy mess and the panel failed. I'm not keen on drilling & screwing to the roof as water might get through, so thinking of magnets. and I'm wondering about whether to have them connected serially or in parallel. parallel seems better for summer and serial for winter. and i want to avoid too many connections and keep it simple. i would welcome suggestions on the best panels and mounting systems and connections.
  10. Hi all, Another post about solar! I've got my set up sorted I think (2 x 290W panels, all the other stuff..) but I could do with some advice on the solarboxes I'm planning on building myself. I After much reading and looking at other boats, I've got a design I think will work and fit my boat. Boxes: Made from decking as is often the case, with oak supports inside. No hinges, the legs from the lid will support the panel when it's propped open to get more sun. Should allow opening on the log or short side. A chain will be secured into the panel and into the base, stopping anyone lifting it off (hopefully). Box 1: Sits ahead of my centre line (well clear, shouldn't be an issue with the rope). Offset to starboard to allow passage along the roof. Clear of mushroom vents. Box 2: Sets above the rear cabin, partially covering the open hatch, with space before the pigeon box (see picture). Slightly offset to starboard again, but less room here. Hopefully enough space around sides to accommodate centre lines. I'm just looking for any advice on this, as it'll be my first time building these. If I've made a rookie error, or if there is something you think would really help please let me know! Again, sorry for another solar post, hopefully this one will be useful to future boaters planning on building their own boxes.
  11. I tried doing a CCTV thing before using an old mobile phone (for wifi) and a USB camera, but that (I think) knackered my battery and had other problems. Anyway, this is version 2.0 using a solar powered Reolink 4G camera: It comes with a Vodafone 4G SIM card (£4/mth unlimited data). You register it using an app then pop it into the camera. Voila! You're online. You then install the Reolink app. Link the app to the camera and you're good to go. TALK - let's you send audio from your phone to the camera. Such as to frighten the bejeezus out of people PTZ - is to rotate the camera up/down and left/right PLAYBACK - to view footage. Footage is saved to the supplied SD card PIR - let's you set an alert if something moves QUALITY - let's you adjust the record (HD) quality and the 4G view (low) quality. Full screen (low 4G quality). Full screen with PTZ. Just fitted this. So we'll see how it goes. At least this set up can't kill my leisure battery. ? I got mine from Amazon.co.uk (~£230). Search for: 'Reolink 3G/4G LTE Pan Tilt Solar Security Camera' (Don't want to post a link in case it's against site policy and all that jazz)
  12. Hi all - hoping someone might be able to help troubleshoot a solar charging problem. The problem is: it isn't working. The set up has worked perfectly since I installed it 5 years ago, and nothing in this system or any of the electrics on the boat has been changed recently. Yesterday, I noticed the epever xtra MPPT controller was showing the panel had light, but it was not charging. Vpanel = ~12.4v and Vbatt =12.6v at that time. This was around midday, it was working in the morning. I have a second identical and fully working MPPT controller, so first thing I did was rewire into this one - same problem, so not the controller. I was also able to switch out the panel with another similar one - same problem, so not the panel (I also tried the second panel on both controllers). So presumably the problem lies between controller and batteries? The batteries are healthy, they charge fine with the engine running and they hold their charge. One thing I noticed is when I ran the engine and Vbatt went up to around 13.4V, the Vpanel shown on controller was ~13.1v. I also tested the wires from the panel when disconnected from the controller, and it was giving 31V. So, something in my electrics is dragging it down? I took out a single leisure battery and connected the controller direct to this, so nothing else on the system. Same problem - still showing not charging, and volts always about 0.2v below Vbatt. This has my completely stumped, so any other thoughts very welcome! Thanks, Andrew
  13. Finally got all my solar panels (2 x 100w), controller (Tracer MPPT 30A), cables, connectors and such together in one place and installed. Looks to be working fine! I've had fun gazing at and flicking through the remote meter for the Tracer controller, but find the user booklet doesn't really explain everything well. Lost in translation ... or is it me? I know a few of you use these, so a couple of questions: 1) What does the 'battery capacity percentage' function actually show? Mine started out at about 70% when I first started the system up, but it quickly seemed to settle at 52% last night ... despite the batteries apparently being fully charged. 2) Timer 1 Mode: What are people setting this at? 'n' (disabled); '0' (Dusk to Dawn, Load will be on all night); 16 (Test mode -- not sure what this is); 17 (ON/OFF mode); or leaving it on overnight by selecting a number of hours after dusk? 3) Load Terminals -- on the Controller itself: I understand this to be a sort of 12v 'feed'. Is this just a handy way of tapping into the batteries? For example, is this a good place to run a 12v cigarette lighter socket from (with a fused positive lead)? Thanks for any insights.
  14. We have installed 500W of solar (with another 250W panel to be fitted). We have an MPPT charge controller (MorningStar TS-60) and these sunny days, it takes no time to fill our batteries, especially as our fridge is out of action. I'm wondering if there's a straightforward (inexpensive) way to divert the excess power to our immersion heater to heat the water tank? I think it's a 1kw immersion heater. We have a 1kw inverter also. I guess a more low powered immersion heater would be needed?
  15. Hello! Yes I know there have been endless posts and topics about this, and I've gone through a lot of them. I thought I was convinced I was going to build a pair of 125W panels into a top box near the bow, but then I found these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111315145099?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Somebody talk me out of them please! Thanks!!!
  16. Hello, So I have read a lot on forums about how PWM and MPPT charge controllers work and their pros and cons. There seems to be a lot of disagreement whether a MPPT controller is worth the extra money for systems in the 200-500W range. This is where my chosen panels lie. My system is: 3 x 100W panels each at Vmax = 18.75V Voc = 22.09V Imp = 5.33A feeding 3 x 110ah leisure batteries So what I am asking is has anyone got any experience/advice on each type of charge controller and is an MPPT worth the extra money? I guess I should also say that the boat is a live aboard mostly in and around London. Thanks in advance
  17. Hi, My narrow boat came with two solar panels: 1. Uni-Solar US-64 MC - http://www.energoberen.hr/index.php/en/Fotonaponski-Moduli/Uni-Solar-US-64-MC.html 2. Suntech STP065-12/Sb - http://www.arcmansolar.com/products/53.aspx?cid=7-12-11 I took apart the cabling used by the previous owner while painting the boat and I am just about to put it back together. I noticed the + and - cables on both the panels are approx 4mm2 but the previous owner had connected both cables up to 2.5mm2 cable and run it to the solar panel controller (Pro Star 30 - http://www.morningstarcorp.com/pro-star). I was just wondering if this is safe and/or able to receive the maximum amount of charge? i.e. Should I buy some new cable, if so what thickness or should I just use the 2.5mm2 cable the previous owner used? Many thanks for any information and advice you can provide!
  18. Hi all, Spring is approaching and so is all of that glorious sunshine (hopefully). I currently have a presumably very old 80w sony solar panel on my boat. I'd like to move this to the roof bow and have this charge a set of batteries I have going spare in the cratch, which will be hooked up to a 600w inverter for occasional use (a blender mainly! ). I am going to visit the Bimble warehouse next week to with the intention to purchase three of their own branded 100w solar panels, a MTTP controller (undecided which one) and obviously cable. These will charge my 440ah battery bank at the aft, which is also charged via alternator and powers all appliances. Ideally, I'd like the solar to be able to turn 360 degrees on its horizontal and 90 degrees, or close to on it's vertical. The easiest way I have thought of is through making a box for the panels to sit on with arms/legs on each corner which can be placed in positions to tilt the panels, dependent on where the sun is. (I hope that makes sense) Does anyone have any suggestions re mounts? Any experience dealing with Bimble and their own branded solar? How do people secure their solar to save them being stolen? The panels im looking at are ~0.67m wide, which gives plenty of space to walk either side, does anyone have solar which covers the entire width of the roof (1-1.3m)? any feedback/constructive criticism would be very much appreciated. Cheers and happy boating George
  19. Hi, I am looking to put solar panels on my boat. I'm in the Milton Keynes area for the next month or so and would like to find a decent solar fitter who could advise on the fitting of panels to my boat. My initial concern is what can be fitted if anything. The boat is quite small with not much room on the roof. Also routing of the wires and gizmos inside the boat. I want the wires routed properly and hidden as much as possible. Any recommendations?
  20. Hi there, I’m fairly new to boat building and am in the initial stages of fitting out my boat. I did have a look but couldn’t find anything on the following questions. I have a couple questions that I could really use an experienced boaters expertise on: I currently have a 55hp canalline engine onboard with the normal two alternators, the domestic is a 12v 175A alternator. My first question is: does anyone have experience with replacing it with a larger alternator? For example a 24v 400A alternator? If yes, how did it go? How did you mount it? I appreciate running your engine is not pleasant for boating neighbours and know about the restrictions in time when running it. In order to prevent the alternator from running at idle and not pulling through that many amps, is there anything stopping me disengaging the gear wire on the engine and throttling a little bit? At the moment the main thing I’m trying to work out is if I should fit a bigger alternator and run the engine for 45mins a day or go with solar and run the risk of it getting stolen in London. I’m sure I will have loads more questions in the future but to start with thanks for your help with these two.
  21. Hi all. I have just installed 2x150w panels solar in parallel with a bn series mppt and mt 50 control panel. So far it has been ok, however, after running engine for a while this morning, in hot sun, the domestic alternator charge warning light came on bright. Thought the belt had broken to start with but it was ok. The light was going off and coming on sporadically. sometimes flashing. batteries were showing full-ish on the mt50. I disconnected the panels and all back to normal! so it appears some type of feed back? could it be a dodgy diode in the alternator? or something else? too much power from battery light feed to alternator because of Solar? Please, ideas anyone? The Alternator is wired in separately with a switch in the exciter/light feed wire. alternator and solar charge cables feed to the same battery terminals. should I change to a different terminal? Help!!!
  22. Morning everyone, Have just completed purchase of our first boat. 56' x 12 built in 2006. I intend doing a reburbishment over the coming 6 months or so but really need advice. 1st - a generator ideal for the boat but initially to run my power tools inc a Dewalt table saw. 2nd (and most important) - PLEASE, can someone recommend roughly what I should fit for solar, batteries and panels, to cover most of our needs as liveaboard continuous cruisers.. Currently have a solid fuel stove and back boiler. Would like to install oil fired boiler. Power expectations are all the usual appliances but not dishwasher. Standard fridge freezer, washing machine, TV, 12v lighting, laptops, radio......hot water and heating would be superb even if only partial. I assume being a Widebeam, roof space isn't the main issue. I've read so much it's confusing. As we live in a cloudy part of th world and the cut is shady, would amorphous panels be the better choice? I've no idea about this stuff yet. Equipment required, set up plans, where to buy, what to buy and how much to buy- would all be very helpful. I'm sorry if this repeats a previous post, and I thank you all in advance. Cheers all.
  23. Hi all we have just moved to a new mooring where there is no power hook up , it’s idyllic however so worth that. Looking to add more solar and upgrade my battery bank . Currently we have 4 x 135Ah wet batteries and they are at end of life . I am looking at the following options after taking a lot of advice , 5 x 120 Ah 12 v gel Batteries or 5 x similar rated Trojans wet batteries . Which is best ? Advice please Obv wets need topping up which is a pain in my boat as there is poor access to battery bank but they are cheaper . I am leaning towards the more expensive gels at present due to dod and low maintenance Regards Simon
  24. I currently have 3 x 250W + 1 x 250W panels connected. The string of three are connected in series through a 60A controller, the 1 panel is connected through a seperate controller. I would like to change the configuration to 2+2 in series, as one of the controllers is playing up and needs replacing. I was originally considering the Tracer BN series (40A) controller, but upon browsing, came across these(Tracer 7810):- https://www.bimblesolar.com/offgrid/mppt/Waterproof-Tracer7810BP Now I know they are only rated at 30A (390W at 12V). My panels are 43 V open circuit,and they are flat mounted. Would 2 of these controllers be ok, or should I go for the 2x40A? Thanks as always
  25. Hey, does anyone know where to buy these? I've found one website but at £75 I'm hoping to find somewhere cheaper.
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