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Showing results for tags 'relay'.
Found 5 results
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Can anyone advise please? The kubota v1903 engine won't start. When you turn the ignition the starter relay at rear of ignition panel makes a noisy whining sound, doesn't sound good. Red Lights on panel intermittent on off as you turn key. On turning key to start there is nothing but the whiring noise as you then turn the key into off position. Batteries are all OK. Voltage checked. What i can see, doesn't seem to be any lose wires. It just suddenly stopped working, there been no faults up till it stopped working. Starter has been working fine e every time. Anyone know what the fault is? Could it be the relay be the fault or something else. Where can I get hold very quickly of the relay unit? Relay info... Denso 12v starter timer relay 061700 - 3770. Thanks
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I am looking to replace the diode splitter on our narrowboat with a relay. I have read up on the subject including on this forum but opinions seem to vary, leaving me unclear, so let me ask a few questions and see if a consensus emerges. 1. Does a VSR have any real advantage over an ordinary relay (seems like more to go wrong for the sake of one less wire to connect)? 2. Should the alternator output go direct to the domestic bank or to the starter battery? I can see the advantages of the former (maximise the volts where they’re most needed, minimise the current through the relay) but then why are VSRs bi-directional? 3. What size cable should be used to connect in the relay? Firms sell kits using 16 sq.mm cable and 100 amp fuses but I read that a BSS inspector failed someone’s VSR installation on the grounds that it counts as a battery-to-battery connection and so must be done with 25 sq.mm cable. 4. What happens if I have a stand-alone mains charger connected to the domestic bank and I then start the engine? Is there any risk of blowing up the relay or its associated fuses by drawing starter current through them? Assuming no damage occurs, would the two charging systems then confuse each other? For reference, the boat has a domestic bank of 3x110Ah, a 90Ah starter battery and an alternator rated at 67A.
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The 12 volt 40 amp relay behind the control panel is buzzing. It only occurs with the engine running It does not occur with the engine switched on but not running It does not occur with the engine switched off The engine is a Beta 43, 2006 vintage The control panel is the Beta "C" with tachometer, oil pressure gauge, volt meter, water temperature, green power on light, red warning lights for oil pressure, engine alternator, domestic alternator. And warning buzzer. The control panel shows all lights before engine startup and all red warning lights go out after engine start up. The engine needs to be started at higher revs than tickover but as soon as the engine starts the alternator warning lights go out and remain out when returned to tickover. The engine battery appears to charge ok (the engine alternator feeds a diode splitter which then feeds the engine battery and the bow thruster battery) charging is a little slow but I think this could be explained by the lower voltage that would be obtained by using a diode splitter. The domestic batteries appear to charge ok (4x Trojan t105 type batteries wired series/parallel for 12v. Solar recently installed I thought it could possibly be the solar causing it, but it still happens with the solar controller output isolated. Can anyone A) tell me what this relay does any suggestions as to what the problem is and how to fix it Ps I did not insert the emoji, the furum software did. It was supposed to be "B bracket"
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I'm hoping to wire up my second (leisure) battery this weekend via a VSR (Voltage Sensitive Relay). I may have goofed and bought the wrong cables. Are these cables suitable to go from the first battery to the VSR and the VSR to the second battery? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0711V19RR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It describes them as: Sectional battery cable 10 mm2 made in Germany Length: 50cm (distance between the centre of one hole to another) Colour: red, very flexible, very pliable in a PVC sheathing Eyelets: 2 x M5 (provided in mm for the diameter of the eye opening) - high conductivity and dense wall thickness. Application: Battery cable for car, voltage of battery cables is 12 V, suitable for car cable clamps Just wary as the current cables to/from the main battery is a bit thicker.
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I installed SG/SB in 2007 and have been happy with it's performance during the past 5,000+ hours of cruising. I was having a reread of the manual today and this reminded me of something that I find decidedly odd. I have downloaded Gibbo's diagram from the new site and checked that it is the same as the one that I have printed out from the old site. To the left of the green and black box at the bottom are the words "Charge sources and alternators may connect to either battery bank." This statement mystifies me and the manual is very carefully written and full of good info so I suspect that I am not understanding something. SmartBank is a split charge relay system with some important bells and whistles attached. One of the bells is that it is designed to ensure that the engine battery is fully charged before energising the relay to parallel the domestics (called "Main auxilliary bank" in the diagram). This will required the charging source (alternator, battery charger or solar panels) to be connected to engine battery. That is somewhere along the thick purple wire that I have marked 'B' in the diagram. If you connect to thick purple wire marked 'A' then until the relay connects the engine battery gets nothing and at best the domestics get priority. So is the statement "Charge sources and alternators may connect to either battery bank." wrong or am I not understanding something. Nick SmartGauge-SmartBank query.pdf
