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Showing results for tags 'perkins'.
Found 5 results
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Hi there, I've been following this forum for a while but never posted before, always really useful advice on so thanks! Our engine is not turning over when we try to start it but we don't believe it to be anything major as it was running fine a year ago but then we've been away and haven't tried to start it again until now. The electrics are working as the heater kicks in when we start the ignition and the engine tries to turn over when we turn the key fully. It's at this point though that we can't get any further. Hopefully just an issue of re-lubricating the engine properly or perhaps finding a part which has caused the engine to jam? Perkins 4108 Diesel So far we've changed the oil and removed the injectors to spray some diesel down into the slots we've removed them from. The next step we believe is to manually turn over the engine using the large bolt at the front which is by the belt which is connected to the starter motor. Again this is something we have attempted. But this is where we are confused. The bolt turns with not too much force but the wheel it is attached to is not turning but I believe it should? Why would the bolt turn but not the wheel? What do you think is the next step? Hope this all makes sense. Thanks for your help!
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media Does anyone know the size of the "O" rings for the injector pumps on a Perkins 2.5L, 4 cylinder engine? Or a cheaper parts supplier than Diperk, who have an £18 minimum order charge, which is a bit OTT for eight "O" rings! The engine is on a 240V AC generator. Not sure if they're a standard size, or Japanese specials! Engine number is KR31409 U 960769J Thanks.
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I'm relatively new to boating and a complete novice when it comes to engines. What I believe to be my Perkins engine on my narrow boat has started overheating and I currently have no idea where to begin. The engine runs fine for about 10-15 minutes before the temperature gauge begins to rise and steam begins to show on one of the exhausts. A little context and possible causes for the issue; I recently did some renovations on the kitchen as a result the water and boiler were both shut off I thought it may be possible that this had caused air to enter the pump and possibly the engine, it was suggested that the engine radiator may need bleeding but as I said before I'm pretty inexperienced so this could be completely wrong. Also when setting off recently I found the boat was wedged on a shallow shelf, in my inexperience the engine was pushed to high revs in order to get going, shortly after the engine begun to overheat. Ive included some photos of the engine in the hopes that someone may be able to identify the model and if someone with greater experience than myself has any suggestions on how to solve the over heating issue or could impart a small amount of their knowledge onto me it would be hugely appreciated. Many thanks
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I've just bought an old Trentcraft GRP cruiser with a Perkins 100 series 3 cyl diesel engine. It has a heat exchanger that incorporates the exhaust manifold and uses canal/river water to cool it (and spits it out of the exhaust). There's a separate clean water supply via a header tank on top of the heat exchanger and a conventional (ie car type) water pump driven by vee belt. There's a bottom hose from the heat exchanger to the water pump but whereas on (old) cars you get a thermostat housing on top of the cylinder head and a top hose to the rad on this there's nothing like that. I assume the flow is through the cylinder head straight into the heat exchanger. According to a downloaded manual (which isn't very clear) there should be a thermostat behind the water pump, but the temp gauge varies from about 40°C on a canal to 70°C going upstream on a river so I suspect the thermostat is either jammed or missing. I'll strip it down at the end of the year and check. There are two tapping points on top of the water pump, currently plugged with threaded blanking plugs. I would like to fit a small calorifer but can't figure our where to connect to. Are the two tapped holes on the pump usable as flow and return? If so which is which, is there some way to find out? Or should I take hot water from one of those (which?) and return to a tee in the bottom hose? Any advice anyone?
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Hi All, Who has this engine and in particular this thermostat setup? My issues was the engine not heating the water, has been fine the last 8 months. Issue cam about when the Bowman end cap on the heat exchanged split, sending coolent everywhere. Replaced and refilled with coolent and bled system and still not hot water. Moved on to checking the thermostat, taking the cover off i was met with a weird hard plastic or possible rubber that has aged in hot water, it came out but very misshaped. Tested thermosat with good old pan of water, opened as it should in hot water. Bought a new one for a perkins 104-19 engine, plus sourced a spring that after researching the engine was listed. On fitting said spring to me it was not strong enough and that the water pressure could just move the whole thermosat in situ...anyway fitted with new thermo, spring etc and still not hot water. Im thinking that perhaps the hard tube is the way to go, buy a piece that attaches to back of plate and outside of thermosat, then drill 3 holes like the old one. I do not know engine temp and gauage broken and dont have testing equipment. I know if i run engine for two hours and take rad cap off the water is luke warm. So i preseum water is just going round the engine and calorifier in one big loop and never getting hot. If i run the Alde boiler the water does heat up so I know the calorifier tnk is OK. Would welcome thoughts and help, many thanks.
