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Hi lovely helpers, The inside of my boat has been breeding insane procrastination. Hoping someone can help! I've read through lots of the posts here, but just to be sure here is the unique situation of similar nature. I have an old boat, it had sunk before I got it, and the interior was full of rust - totally stripped, no ballast so quite ideal. First, I hit the chunks of flake with a crow bar, then a chipping hammer, then an angle grinder, then some sand paper. After I rid all the loose flakes I rinsed it with vinegar and potato, which was pretty effective. There are various remnants of different paints throughout. Mostly a kind of red oxide, and then at the front possibly a bitumen, but I think under all of that is a grey/blue paint.. possibly a zinc thing? Can only attach one photo, will try to add more to clarify. I was given some Micaceous Iron Oxide, and feel hesitant to waste it. Not sure if its similar to Red Oxide, or if it prevents rust coming through? My ideal aim, is to use a paint to seal the rust and protect the metal, so that I can prevent the boat rusting from the inside out. While the boat is stripped it is the best opportunity to do the best job I can.. but I've been hesitating for way too long. I've started grinding off what seems to be the bitumen. As I've seen in some posts the best prep is bare steel, and I really want to do the best I can. I have time but not so much money. Any advice much appreciated. Any knowledge about Micaceous Iron Oxide also would help a lot (can't seem to find much info about its relation with rust or bitumen, whether its best on bare steel etc) Many thanks, Sam (I would like to share a discovery of angle technique: I often see the lament of wire wheels getting clogged with bitumen, or making it too hot and smearing it. I've found it quite effective to hold the grinder so its practically tickling the bitumen, or tap it lightly... it takes it off really quickly. Also best to only spend a few seconds per patch so it doesnt get too hot, and of course better to do on a cool day. Also, after a few minutes, where even the tapping is simply smearing... have a scrap of metal near by and periodically clean the grinder with it. I have been using the same wire wheel on many metres of bitumen with this method. Also, I have seen warnings of taking off the good metal: if you are gentle enough, you will see minimal sparks.. at least with the top layer of bitumen there will hardly any sparks at all, but being observant of what splatters out of the grinder is a way to keep metal loss to a minimum... hope this is helpful to someone..!)