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Found 16 results

  1. Anyone with experience of building a new, accessible and all electric narrowboat? Just starting feasibility and information gratefully received.
  2. I am refitting our boat and we have a new plastic watertank. we are planning on getting it spray foam insulated when we have our boat insulated. we are planning on removing a section of the subfloor and having the watertank sit on the ballasts/ girders there will be about 3 inch gap between the hull and watertank. Is there a danger or condensation trapped in this gap, should i insulate under aswell?
  3. Hello All, I'm a prospective boat buyer that is very close to making my first offer on a boat that my wife and I really like a great deal. However I have come across what I think could be a problem and wanted to know how best to rectify it and what might be the costs. The boat's cabin is lined with polystyrene and I think that it is causing a good deal of condensation as warm air gets around the polystyrene and comes into contact with the steel. The current owner keeps mentioning condensation and that it needs to be mopped up occasionally from the bilges at the stern of the boat. Anyway, the impression I'm getting from him is that condensation could be a bit of an issue. I know it is present on a good deal of boats but it is something I really would prefer to live without. It could be a deal breaker for me which is a real shame, as after looking for a while it seemed that this boat was 'the one'. I think the only thing that would give me peace of mind was if the whole boat was re-lined with spray foam but I'm guessing that would mean completely stripping the boat out and starting again..? I'm not sure. The boat is beautifully panelled with 9mm cherry ply and oak beams and is fully fitted with a characterful bathroom and kitchen, no bedroom to speak of just an open-plan saloon/bedroom and of course an engine room and boatman's cabin at the stern. I can't think of any other way to sort out this problem but if anybody on these forums knows an alternative, please do let me know. Having to remove all the furniture, fittings and panelling to spray foam, then putting everything back again would be quite an undertaking I imagine and would negate a purchase, unless the vendor dropped his price a great deal. Any advice is gratefully received. Thank you. PB
  4. Hi guys, I have recently required a 70ft lovely that could do with a bit of TLC. I'm looking to renovate just one room to begin with. The bedroom. It's entirely separate from the rest of the boat so shouldn't take so long. Whilst I'm quite handy with this kind of stuff, I just wanted to get some feedback from others who have done this as to what problems could arise. It isn't insulated very well - in fact, I can see the filling hanging out the bottom now - it looks like old mucky wool. So, I would look to install some Kingspan panels and board over that. i also wanted to know what wood people use to finish - I appreciate a lot of this is down to personal preference, but again, another's experience is always worth hearing. Thanks in advance. Michael.
  5. Hi all, Our boat (52" widebeam) gets really bad condensation, to the point where the water is dripping down the walls. The walls are wooden and have started to swell. When we had our windows upgraded to double glazing (old windows still available for sale btw!) in order to fix this problem, we found that the walls are not insulated in any way. What I'm asking is that a) does anyone know a reliable boat builder who could rip out all the walls and thoroughly insulate them, and b ) is this definitely going to solve the problem? Thank you!
  6. Hi All, We have been thinking about fitting some of that cheap film that you can attach to window frames and then make taut with the use of a (12v) hair drier. Do any of you have experience with this? I've seen it used in a house, but the main issue I envisage on a boat is how to stick it securely to the wooden window frames. We want to use this on most - but not all - windows to reduce condensation and increase heat insulation. Any thoughts??? Cheers!
  7. Hi all! When I got my boat it had a rusty decommissioned pump out tank. This summer I replaced it with a new plastic one. The tank is under the bed and had a load of polystyrene and other materials above it. Do you know whether it might have been put there for storage as they had leftover polystyrene, or was it to insulate the tank? If it's the latter do I still need it there with a plastic tank? The reason I ask is because it would free up about 5'x 2'x 6" of storage which would be perfect for storing instrument cases. Any thoughts very welcome as I'm currently rebuilding the bed (complete with hydrolic hinges to access storage) and if I can do away with the polystyrene and box the poo tank in, it would be much easier at this stage! Many thanks!
  8. As the time draws closer for my ex to sell the house and let me have some dosh comes closer I have gone from purposeful browsing and and info gathering to "Could I live on this boat?". Am seriously looking at an ex hire boat called Sphynx http://www.norburywharfltd.co.uk/boats-for-sale/ I would hav to move the inside about a bit to get it as I want it but can do that in stages. My immediate concern is that it says "Insulation: Unknown" in the brochure. I am only mildly concerned about the hull as it appears to have been very well cared for by the company. Does anyone know anything about this boat or Dartline boats in general? I want to go an have a look at her at some point soon. But she is the first Narrow boat where I could actually "see" myself owning her. That's why I am being cautious. My "professional" instincts are normally spot on. Otherwise....well...I married the ex!!! lol! Info, Thoughts, Opinion and the normal abuse welcome! lol!
  9. Hi, Having recently purchased my first narrowboat, I am currently working my way down the (never ending ) to do list that stands before me. Any help on this and a few other like minded posts would be gratefully received. My engine room currently has: no insulation AND no air vent/ventilation system for when the engine gets HOT from use. I have been 'advised' to: a.) Batten out and insulate as much of the engine room as possible for the winter months. b.) Cut a couple of rectangles through the batten, insulation and steel to fit an air vent on each side wall to improve air circulation for when the engine is running. c.) Tidy up the battery mounts. Does anybody have any experience of doing either of these? Any things to be weary of? Any areas not safe to batten and insulate? Any ideas on housing batteries (3-4 domestic) in a tidy, simple and accessible way? Look forward to hearing what you might come up with. Thanking you all in advance. HAPPY BOATING
  10. Hi, we've just purchased an old Burland 27 GRP cruiser, it's stripped back and we want to insulate it before recarpeting the walls. We don't mind spending a little, but we have to be realistic as the boat has limited value. Preferably something self adhesive if possible so we can just cut and stick, but I'm struggling with finding what I should be using and how thick.
  11. We bought a lovely narrow boat and are doing it up slowly as we go. Pulled out the kitchen to build more 'purpose built' units and have found the previous owner has cut away some of the insulation and exposed bits of the steel. Under the gunnel. This explains why there was damp in the old kitchen units. Can people suggest how best to 'patch this up'. It's not like this everywhere, just where you can see in the pictures. Is it worth me scrapping away sections so that I can put a long bit of rigid insulation in, or just use a spray expanding foam on the bits you can see? I have also got some hammerite to put onto the bits that he exposed.
  12. Hello, I couldn't find an answer to this problem so hopefully not repeated elsewhere. We have had the same damp boat for three years and I have decided to confront it, starting with the bedroom (furthest from the burner and so worst). I have taken the bedroom panels off to look at the insulation and it is pretty awful. Sprayfoam of varying thickness all over, down to about 5mm in places, never more than 25mm. The gunnels have been missed entirely down the whole length, both sides. There are gaps where the wall and roof meet (the installer has clearly not got behind the batten here as is evident from rust staining on the foam below). In a few places the sprayfoam has become debonded from the steel especially where the roof meets the wall. In some places the sprayfoam seems to have become saturated and is discoloured (I thought it was closed cell?). Couple of questions: 1) What should I use to insulate the gunnels? Sprayfoam in a can/kingspan cut and stuck down with marineflex and then gaps filled with sprayfoam/something else? 2) What is the best way to build up the insulation thickness where it is very thin? 3) Where water has saturated the spray foam should I remove damaged material and replace or will it dry out? 4) If I patch up parts with sprayfoam will it bond to exiting foam and create a water barrier or will I need to do this on top of the foam with another material? 5) Some of the battens were soaking wet around the screwheads, is there an easy way to prevent this? Countersink and insulate? Thanks for answers to any of these questions and any other advice! Dan
  13. I'm going to replace the wooden frame before putting up the insulation. What can I use to seal the wood to the hull to eliminate the air gap?
  14. Hi all, I discovered that a part of one of my cabin sides isn't insulated. Ideally I'd not rip out the built-in cupboard and ply walls... There's a large inspection hatch big enough to put in smaller cuts of Celotex board (about 20x50cm). So do you think it would work to put in multiple bits of Celotex, and then fill any gaps with spray foam? Thanks
  15. Hi all, Hopefully a quick question, although judging by other threads on the topic it may not be. I'm replacing the internal ceiling (sorry can't remember the proper name for one on a boat) & the old packing foam style insulation in the boat as it is all a bit tatty and I have a few leaks.....plus when I get the stove installed I think it would be wise not to burn the inside. I think I have to use rockwool as celotex doesn't look like it will bend with the roof shape but either way.....Do I need to prime the inside of the steel before putting in the insulation?and is it worth putting a thin layer of insulation over the wooden battens before putting in the new ceiling? (I don't have the option of spray foam or anything like that for now.) Lovely snow scene outside here....not much to do except for keep ripping the boat apart
  16. Hi all, Following a bereavement and a change in circumstance am now keen to resolve the new lounge layout starting with the floor. The current flooring whilst great in summer is blooming cold underfoot and I suspect (like most of the finishing) the bouncy element comes from a big gap in the flooring as this runs in a consistent line along the boat. I want to put carpeting in the lounge area but does anyone recommend or warn against any specific type of underlay? I may have to re-lay some boarding underneath to close some gaps but don't want to lay some underlay and find it attracts moisture to damage the carpet from underside. Will be a cheap thick and replaceable cost on the carpet but equally a soggy floor from will be worse than a cold one....having said that my heTing is still not working properly as yet so the condensation is worse is my head than it will be. Hope all are well.
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