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Hi all, I've been working on my boat and thought it a wise decision to touch base to benefit from anyone else's advice. I have the following setup: Shore Connection Socket (Charges batteries from 220v shore ) 3 Pin 220v Shore Connection > 50A Fused Isolator Switch > Automatic Inverter/ Charger > Consumer Unit > the rest of the boat. 220v Solar PV to Leisure Batteries (Powers 12v leisure batteries from solar panel energy) 215w Solar Panel > MPPT Charge Controller > Automatic Inverter/Charger > Inline Battery Fuse > 2 x 12v Batteries in Parallel. 12v Battery Connection (Powers electrics when not plugged into a shore connection): 2 x 12v Batteries in Parallel > Inline Battery Fuse > Automatic Inverter/Charger > Consumer Unit > to the rest of the boat.

Hello, I have a Lugger generator (Model number: M673LD3.5) and it keeps tripping out (or appearing to) when i switch to generator input - there isn't a load on it at that point and the fuse is intact. Any ideas? Does it just need a service? Thank you for any help

Just back from blacking our boat for the first time (40ft live-aboard, 2002 build) and slightly paranoid about electrical corrosion after seeing first hand the amount of pitting on her sides and bottom. There is widespread pitting of 3 or more mm across the baseplate. We cleaned and blacked it all (well except for where she was resting on the bearers), but are now looking to what we can do to prevent further corrosion worsening the state of the hull. We intend to get an isolating transformer to deal with any stray current from the shore line (we are permanently attached at our home mooring) but then I also got to thinking and realised that our mooring is directly beneath overhead power lines (see picture below ...) So what I want to ask is - is it possible/likely that stray current from high voltage power lines could cause electrolytic corrosion to a steel boat hull? If so, how would one measure such a stray voltage and what could be done to insulate the boat from it? (Aside from moving to another mooring, which we are likely going to do anyway as a precautionary measure!) Any insight from the electrically minded much appreciated. CT

Anyone know where I can get some Yellow insulation pre-insulated 9.5 mm male spades? Female ones are easy, 6.3 mm ones are easy, but alternator output sized male ones are not. Google is not my mate, nor can Amazon, E-bay, Vehicle Wiring Products or 12V Planet provide, AFAIK. So, over to the Forum please. N

Hi A few battery /electric issues yesterday, and when I went and had a look this has happened. I'm guessing it's some sort of fuse, but I can't seem to find what specifically it is, and being novice I tend to swap like for like. Any help identifying what it's officially called and where I might get a replacement. Best Regards Mark

I have a Beta 38 with twin alternators (65 and 45 Amp), a 330AH domestic set and a separate starter battery. Everyone (Calder included) seems to advise some kind of alternator regulator to reduce charging time/increase battery life etc. Should I: just get a regulator for the 65 Amp connected to the domestics, and leave the starter alterator/starter battery out of the equation completely? get a more sophisticated regulator/splitter/management unit (e.g. the Sterling Alternator-to-Battery Charger) which would allow me to run both alternators in and then have the unit split the charge etc? I'm not keen to just increase the 65 Amp alternator BTW which some have advised, as it would involve putting extra brackets etc on the engine. Any thoughts - integrated system or keep it simple? That said, the ease of wiring in the more pricey unit has its appeal ... Patrick

Hi All, Can anyone recommend a good electrician near Milton Keynes please? Kind Regards Adam

Hello, We have just put a deposit down on our first narrowboat and although its are very exciting, its a little daunting so we am looking for some advice. It currently has a Eberspacher hot air heater under the bed - does anyone know about these, is it worth keeping? This is what the surveyor said An Eberspacher D1L hot air heater was installed under the double berth in the forward cabin. There was a thermostat and control unit in the cabin. Ducting was no longer connected to vents and some joins in ducting had been made with duct tape. Recommendation Either decommission Eberspacher hot air heater or commission a qualified engineer to inspect the heater and its installation prior to its use. We are just wondering whether its worth keeping hold of and getting serviced or whether we should just get rid of it? Also any recommendations for an electrican and also a gas engineer in london would be very much appreciated. Thanks for your time. Emily & Juan

Hi all, Been boating for around 6 months all been going well, until a week ago, when I notices the Domestic batteries where not getting charged. Running a Beta 38 with dual alternators and twobattery sets, single starter and four domestic batteries, these are not linked in any way. The started runner circuit seems to run OK. So I did the following: Checked alternator output, 10v - so not good, so I ordered a new alternator 100Amp 14.1V. This also was confusing as I would of expected to at least see the battery voltage across the alternator. After replacement, still only getting 10V (slight panic as the new alternator was £150) Got on blog and someone mentioned isolator switches, but both mine where replaced when I changed to position of the isolator switches about 6 months ago, and they where not cheap !!!! As a test, I bypassed the isolator on the domestic side and now get 12.8V from alternator (was expection 14.xx) seems like battery voltage......Oh dear so the alternator seems to be working but not at the correct voltage - did it get fried due to a faulty isolator ? the batteries are getting some change, but not whats needed to get them to a fully charged situation. I check both isolators, ie domestic and started, and both seem to be intermittent, sometimes they work, other times not, and pushing the key in seems to affect their operation. Seems like both need to be replaced. Just got back from boat, slighty frustrated, but slighty happy about the fact that the isolator switches seem to be the issue, but worried about alternator output. Questions: Did I fry the alternator, due to a faulty isolator switch, I have the original which I have go repaired and was going to use as spare Why only 12.8V. is this linked to above and/ is this the battery voltage showing Any suggestions on a good make of isolator hope that makes sense. Kev