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Hi All, If you use 2-pack epoxy primer (post sandbalsting), do you have to put 2-pack epoxy over the top of this when you come to re-do the hull? (I know the lifetime is meant to be alot longer therefore the need to re-do should be less). And, am I right in thinking you have to put 2-pack expoxy onto bare steel, therefore to re-do the hull you would need to sandblast again and re-apply? thanks!

So I have just *TODAY* bought my first narrowboat. Super excited to get on the water! The surveyor was impressed with the steel, saying it was impeccable condition... largely because the hull was shot blasted and had a very good layer of 2-pack epoxy put on when it was only 2 years old (it's now 17). The surveyor thought that after the first epoxy layer it then then been blacked with bitumen. Meanwhile the previous owner said that this was not the case it's always been re-epoxy'd.. clearly without the shot blasting each time. I've no reason to doubt the previous owner, and a plausible explanation seems to be that the boat has never had any bitumen, but the subsequent coats of epoxy (after the first one) were not adhering very well (perhaps the old surface wasn't being prepared properly?) I'm not sure whether to just get it jet-washed and then put normal bitumen blacking on (this was the surveyors suggestion, an approach he was keen on and thought was sensible) or whether to try and get the epoxy re-done properly... thoughts?! Any input appreciated!

Hi lovely helpers, The inside of my boat has been breeding insane procrastination. Hoping someone can help! I've read through lots of the posts here, but just to be sure here is the unique situation of similar nature. I have an old boat, it had sunk before I got it, and the interior was full of rust - totally stripped, no ballast so quite ideal. First, I hit the chunks of flake with a crow bar, then a chipping hammer, then an angle grinder, then some sand paper. After I rid all the loose flakes I rinsed it with vinegar and potato, which was pretty effective. There are various remnants of different paints throughout. Mostly a kind of red oxide, and then at the front possibly a bitumen, but I think under all of that is a grey/blue paint.. possibly a zinc thing? Can only attach one photo, will try to add more to clarify. I was given some Micaceous Iron Oxide, and feel hesitant to waste it. Not sure if its similar to Red Oxide, or if it prevents rust coming through? My ideal aim, is to use a paint to seal the rust and protect the metal, so that I can prevent the boat rusting from the inside out. While the boat is stripped it is the best opportunity to do the best job I can.. but I've been hesitating for way too long. I've started grinding off what seems to be the bitumen. As I've seen in some posts the best prep is bare steel, and I really want to do the best I can. I have time but not so much money. Any advice much appreciated. Any knowledge about Micaceous Iron Oxide also would help a lot (can't seem to find much info about its relation with rust or bitumen, whether its best on bare steel etc) Many thanks, Sam (I would like to share a discovery of angle technique: I often see the lament of wire wheels getting clogged with bitumen, or making it too hot and smearing it. I've found it quite effective to hold the grinder so its practically tickling the bitumen, or tap it lightly... it takes it off really quickly. Also best to only spend a few seconds per patch so it doesnt get too hot, and of course better to do on a cool day. Also, after a few minutes, where even the tapping is simply smearing... have a scrap of metal near by and periodically clean the grinder with it. I have been using the same wire wheel on many metres of bitumen with this method. Also, I have seen warnings of taking off the good metal: if you are gentle enough, you will see minimal sparks.. at least with the top layer of bitumen there will hardly any sparks at all, but being observant of what splatters out of the grinder is a way to keep metal loss to a minimum... hope this is helpful to someone..!)

hi all and thanks already for the wealth of knowledge that I've taken away fro this forum. Ive just got my bill of sale on my 40ft narrow boat and am going through the list of things the survey brought up. Currently she is epoxy coated and surveyor stated could do with being redone soon, not urgent. my question is this, ive had variying quotes for work to be done From £1000 TO £2.5K for 2pk epoxy to be done. does epoxy need to be blasted back to be recoated? some of the quotes say that winter no good to do as temperature means wont go off, is it worth waiting till spring/summer? ive been told about COFLEX as an alternative, its comparable on price so what is the difference, pros cons? basically have epoxy and want to know if I would be shooting myself by using something else, epoxy seems to be highly thought off? any tips advice opinions welcome, Duncan

I have been reading with great interest the forums for a number of years and noted that many people advise the use of a 2 pack epoxy coating for the hull rather than Bitumen. I though you might be interested in my experience with another paint. When I first purchased my boat it was with a bitumen coating - which did not last long before one could see the red oxide primer underneath. I then started working for a boat hire company and whilst in the drydock found they were using a vynyl paint called Resistex (made by Leighs paints) It went on very quickly and dried within about a minute or two - so a second coat could be applied straight after you finished the first. You could do the final brush strokes, then immediately open the flooding valve for the dock and the paint stayed on for the next two to three years with no signs of galvanic corrosion. However I was told that they started with a new hull, shot blasted and applied it on bare steel - the paint would not like to be in contact with bitumen. A year or so later having got fed up with the large orange patches on my hull each time I drydocked, I scraped off the bitumen with an old chisel and applied a first coat of Resistex with a brush - In pits where bitumen was present, it bubbled and frothed and I had to keep going back over it to get a first coat. The second coat went on better (these were then called primer coats) and I followed this with two coats of the black top coat. Two years later in drydock I found that galvanic orange spots were much reduced. The resistex was wire wheeled down and re-coated. 15 years later with a drydock about every two to three years (pressure wash, wire wheel & recoat with two coats of Resistex) - there is no orange patches, no observed extra pitting and drydock takes about 1½ days unless there is stern gear work to be done. Leighs Resistex uses a quick evaporating thinners (hence the quick drying) so you use a lot to keep the pot fluid.

Hi! I've got an old narrowboat covered in old bitumen. Most of it has been replated but budget ran dry for the front and back, which is a decent thickness anyway. The original plan was to paint a few layers of solvent based red oxide over all of it, then a few layers of bitumen. I'm a bit concerned about painting over the old bitumen. It's really stubborn stuff! Tried to get as much off as possible, but as it's unlikely it will all be removed I'm wondering what the best way would be to go about reblacking it. I've read a little about aluminium based primers, or bitumen sealers. Does anyone know anything about them? Any other suggestions also welcome! Unfortunately no funds for sandblasting or any such luxuries. Grinders just smear it about, and time is short! Any help much appreciated with all the gratitude! Thanks, Sama