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I recently discovered a slow leak, from a water pipe on the flow from the pump, up the sharp end. I've fixed the leak but it's plainly been happening over a sustained period as there has been a significant amount of water under the floor. I'm pumping this out every day through a hole near the rear bulkhead. I have drilled 70mm holes in the floor: up by the water tank, by the rear bulkhead and also behind the fridge to encourage air-flow. The brick ballast is saturated throughout. The bricks are packed in tightly and inhibiting the flow of water from the front to the lower back. What would be the best way to dry this all out? Thanks in advance to my helpful heroes...

have just acquired a second hand boat and there is a definite list to port- someone has suggested removing some ballast from the starboard side- anyone ever done this, any ideas as to which part of the floor to remove?

I admit myself confused. I get that an open weed hatch, faulty stern packing, or non functioning bilge pump will flood the engine bay - but why oh why does that sink the boat? The ballast at the bow counteracts the weight of several people standing on the stern so should be enough to counteract the weight of water in the engine bay. Am I missing something? Is the water getting from the engine bay into the main hull somehow and over weighing the whole boat? I thought the engine bay, below deck level, was a separate compartment from the main hull and ballast area. Surely there is more we can do to reduce risk of sinking?! Please can you guys clarify.

Does anyone know where I can get pig iron or scrap railway line for ballast around Yorkshire? And roughly how much the stuff will cost? My barge used to have a large HiAb on the bow in her working life, so now its not there she sits very bow high!

Hello all, I am living aboard a new (to me) 52ft narrowboat. When I first arrived on the boat, I didn't observe any noticeable listing but had yet to put in all my furniture. I have since moved all my belongings on board, and noticed that they have ended up mainly on the starboard side. I have also removed a large cupboard that was previously built in to the port side. Since then, the boat seems to be leaning slightly to the starboard side & so I moved some pre-existing moveable ballast slabs from the starboard side to the port side. This has helped a little bit, but now the boat seems to be more affected than before by any movement through the boat & has quite a noticeable sway whenever someone moves within the boat. The boat does, however, seem more level when people on board are still. There is still some ballast remaining on the starboard side, is it worth moving it or is the swaying normal in a well-balanced boat? Thanks!

Hi, I have just looked at a 36ft Springer (perhaps early 80's) narrowboat for sale, priced at 10,000, as a project boat. No survey yet - owners have had her for 3 years, in those years they have replated on both front and stern after a survey, and blacked and annoded once (now due for renewal) The project: 1. Pre-purchase: Survey + It is due blacking, annodes and engine service (potentially the costs of this, and any replating needed, could be deducted from 10,000 boat cost) 2. Interior Hull: Need to create access in the floor to the interior hull as it there is currently no hatch etc. - Whilst doing the floor, thought would be a good idea to swap (apparently lumps of metal) ballast for engineering blocks, and, do work on the interior steel hull if needed (wire cup brush, rust treat with Vactan, and overcoat with something - bilge paint OR red oxide???) - Then insulate, plywood boards, and wooden board flooring. 3. Panelling: Taking down wall and ceiling boards which have been B&Q bodged in, to be able to redo with nicer wood, but most importantly, electrics and plumbing. 4. Wiring: There is wiring for 12v and 240v, however 240v is not plugged in at the moment, and the owners are running off solar (owners don't trust the wiring) SO would need completely re-wiring the solar (as it is currently just strung around the boat), utility battery for ceiling lights, 12v sockets and 240v sockets, and waterpump for shower/water. 5. Plumbing: There is also plumbing, but they currently don't use as they removed the old watertank, and currently run off a jerry can of water for the sink, and a cassette toilet. The plumbing also currently runs under the floor, so all old plumbing needs to be ripped out, and replumbed in the wall cavities - would like to plumb in sink, shower and potentially septic tank toilet, and then need to get a new watertank. 6. Other Misc: There is a working gas oven and hob, which seems to be fine and functional, so maybe gas is ok? Also a good, working coal/wood burner. Although engine needs a service, she ran well, when they took us for a 1 hr cruise, i think it is a Lister aircooled engine. So, if the survey all went well, does this sound like too much - In all honesty this would be my first narrowboat, but I am on a budget, hence only being able to afford budget boats. Time is not an issue, although being able to live in it by spring would be great. Main questions; - does the tactic to restore the inner hull sound like an ok approach, if it needed doing? What is the realistic expectation for the steel interior hull of a 80's Springer? - is wiring/plumbing possible to do myself, or is it needed to have a professional for BSC and insurnnce? In which case, how much could i expect for full plumbing/wiring? - what work could i expect to do myself, and what should i look for quotes for? Any advice will be HUGELY appreciated in terms of costs expected, or time taken, or regulations to adhere to when doing up a boat. This boat, technically is liveable, as they have been fine for 3 years, but needing this work, what price for it would be realistic? Thank you!

I've been busy this week preparing my floor for a decorative surface (laminate I guess). This has involved cutting into some of the large ply sheets to make access hatches, a couple of which I will incorporate into the final floor covering. That way I can tweak the ballast later, if anything weighty is added ie radiators etc. My boat is quite low at the stern and high at the bow - even now with only 20 litres of diesel and nearly full water. I've always thought it would handle better with the nose a bit lower (especially in reverse), so I took this opportunity not only to get the port/starboard thing spot on but I moved as much ballast from the stern as far forward as possible. A dozen breeze blocks are now up at the pointy end that were previously at the stern, but it has made little difference - maybe a couple of cm difference at each end. I wonder if anyone can calculate if I'd be wasting my time to get more ballast out from the next section up from the stern and place it in the next section down from the bow. I expect it will make less of a difference each time as my take out and put in points gradually get nearer the centre? I can't quite figure it our. The boat is 62ft, I don't know how much the breeze blocks weigh - I'd guess about 20k? Having it dead level port to starboard seems to help with reversing.