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Hi Fellow Forumites, When about to take DQ out for a run yesterday, I noticed that the Victron BMV501 battery monitor was only reading 98.6% SOC, instead of its usual 100% (the boat when moored is always connected to a shore line). Despite the engine running for several hours, the SOC improved only to 98.7%. I surmised that as neither the Victron Combi 3000W charger nor the engine alternator were charging the batteries to 100%, the most likely cause was a loose or high resistance connection on or close to the batteries. The batteries are Lifeline AGM's, 6 x 6 volt 220AH in series/parallel for the domestic bank, and 1 x 12 volt 80AH for the starter battery. Today I investigated, and the investigation has left me confused. All connections were clean, tight and greased, so no obvious cause for the apparent undercharging. Before starting I compared the BMV501 battery monitor reading against my UNI-T 203 clamp/multi-meter. The UNI-T read 0.02 volts higher, at both the BMV501's rear terminals and also at the battery terminals. With the shore line connected, and the Victron Combi in "float" mode the battery voltages, according to the UNI-T were: Domestic - 14.08 volts Starter - 13.68 volts. I then switched off the mains to the shore line, and let the batteries rest for 2 hours. The only load was the CO meter on the domestic battery, so virtually negligible. After 2 hours the readings on the UNI-T 203 were: Domestic 12.95 volts Starter 13.38 volts. I restored the mains to the shoreline, and an hour later t, with the Victron Combi in "float" mode, the tail current going into the batteries was 0.5 Amps. Again indicative of a fully charged battery. According to Lifeline, 12.8 volts or more equals 100% SOC, so the batteries are at 100% charge and therefore not sulphating. So what can be causing the BMV501 to show the SOC as being slightly low? The only other test I can think of doing is to put some load, say 20 amps onto the domestic battery and measure the voltage to see if there is a "duff" cell in one of the Lifeline batteries. (The batteries are in their 8th year, but appear to be holding up well). Thanks in advance. Alan

I guess this has been discusses to death but I thought I'd just document my recent battery experience. My boat is steam powered so battery charging will always be a bit difficult because the engine turns at about 150rpm Max. I do have a 70amp alternator running on a 1:20 belting system so it does get up to 3000rpm. There is a separate steam powered generator which gives 20A and I have a portable Honda powered alternator charging set capable of 70a. Knowing that charging batteries would be a bit hap hazard I decided to use a set of small traction batteries bought second hand on eBay for £150. Each 2v cell is 400mm tall, 200mm wide and 65mm deep and they were made in 1992. Their total when wired up to 12v is 480Ah. I put them in 2 wooden boxes and fitted a good quality desulfator. I have 30a 12v charger built into the boat electrical system. When not planning to light the boiler, I would regularly use the boat for a week without charging the batteries and the voltmeter would drop from 13.5v to 12.5v but the alternator would charge them up fully in about six good hours in steam. Recently after 3 years installed in the boat, a cell went down and the voltage was difficult to maintain although still very useable. I bought a replacement cell for £80.00 dropped it and all was back to normal. Out of interest I checked all the other cells, all of them were exactly 2.25v and the electrolyte was toward the top of green section on the hydrometer so basically like new. I put this down to the permanently wired-in 65mA desulfator because the electrolyte condition wasn't that good or voltage as even when I bought them. Out of interest, the cost of a brand new set of 12 cells was about £800+vat which sounds steep but if they are going to last 20 to 25 years without any real problems or difficulties I think it's well worth it. Just thought I would write this down for you to make of it what you will. Regards - Keith

I have 4x110Ah, 12V lead acid batteries, connected together in my leisure battery bank. I am leaving the boat in a marina over winter, plugged in to shore power but do not want to leave my 2.5 Kv Victron invertor charger on all this time. Does anyone know of a reliable trickle charger that I can leave plugged in which will do the job. Have looked at 2 or 3 on Amazon (Streetwize SWIBC5 12v 3.8 Amp Intelligent Battery Charger & Streetwize Car & Motorcycle Automatic Trickle Battery Charger for Gel / Lead Acid Batteries 12 V) and read reviews that are OK apart from what happens if the shore power cuts out (they have to be re-set?) Would appreciate anyone recommending a suitable unit that they have used to do this job in similar conditions.

A useful index of some common CanalWorld Boat Building and Equipment Topics by smileypete A compiled index of some of the topics commonly discussed on Canalworld - the usual technical ones! Hopefully it'll be a handy resource for those with questions, problems or issues in these areas. Or for those wanting to learn a bit more all about this sort of stuff. Also here's a link to a Google Search for CanalWorld Forum: Google Search CanalWorld Forum (Please do link back to this post where it may help in a reply to a question.) Sorted into the following categories: Batteries! - Batt Woes - Batt Monitoring - Charger, Inverter - Alt, Genny - Solar - Lighting - Other 12V - Mains Eleccy Stove, Backboiler - Diesel, Gas Heating - Gas - Pumps - Other Plumbing - Refrigeration Hull, Exterior - Fitout, Interior - Engine - Internet, Wifi, Phone - PC, Lappie, Tablets - Other, Non Boats Please scrooooll down for the relevant category... 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Again more battery problems... These were 3x110 amp leisure new since summer. They now have a reading of 12.3 after a long battle to keep them up well above the safety of 12.4. After some recent hell with hull rust damage and faulty engines it is now the batteries which is making me cross eyed. Questions are.. 1. Is there anything that can be done to revive these batteries? 2. What are people's thoughts on traction batteries? Are these better for running pumps and stereos? 3.what leisure type batteries could you recommend? There looks like some bad state cables interconnecting these blighted batteries too- do people tend to use really thick cables to connect them up? Thanks for any advice in advance. D

Hi All, First off apologies if this is already covered but every search I do keeps freaking the forum out, producing no results and instigating flood control. Apart from that its going very well. I've just bought 4 x 230AH 12v Monolith Semi traction Batteries. I intend to eventually hook up Solar power and I intend to get a smart alternator regulator, probably the alternator regulator first. Something like this: http://www.shop.sterling-power.com/acatalog/ProSplitR.pdf Solar panel wise I hope to get 2 x290W panels with a 60A MPPT controller. Am I better off having 2 banks of 2 x 230AH 12v Batteries or 1 bank of 4 batteries. Everything on the boat is run off 12V. i have an inverter but don't would only have to use it once in a blue moon. I had originally thought of having 2 banks. the first for essentials and the second for luxuries. Essentials: Bilge Pump Water Pump Shower Pump 2 x 12V lights Headlight Horn Luxuries: 12V Fridge (in summer) 12V TV laptop via 12v car charger USB Phone Charging Car Stereo, Amp and Sub Additional Lighting Having 2 banks I feel like I can run down my luxury bank without worrying about whether I can have a shower in the morning, but another mate suggested that with a big enough bank I'd be less likely to run out in the first place. Another suggestion was that having a fall back system is always good on a boat, maybe i should just put both banks on one of those big switches that lets you use 1,2 or both. I've a sneaking suspicion I've just answered my own question, but I've typed it now so never mind Any thoughts would be much appreciated, particularly a link to a wiring diagram for 3 banks (Starter battery is a 110AH sealed battery), a 12v switch, a 3 output alternator regulator and an mppt controller. Cheers, Ben Heron